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PostPosted: Wed Dec 29, 2010 9:59 pm 
retrobike rider / Gold Trader
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Joined: Mon Jun 22, 2009 11:09 am
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Location: Devon
Not sure how I missed this but great read. Another huge fan of the before and after pictures, disappointed not to see one of your Christmas dinner after :lol:

And agree it was ballsy of you to do that to the brace, would have been easy to mess that up!


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Dec 29, 2010 10:32 pm 
retrobike rider
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Location: Exeter
coomber wrote:
Not sure how I missed this but great read. Another huge fan of the before and after pictures, disappointed not to see one of your Christmas dinner after :lol:

And agree it was ballsy of you to do that to the brace, would have been easy to mess that up!


Ah we've all seen empty plates! Eating that thing was the hardest job of the day!

Stay tuned, I've got plenty of low budget shiny innovations to come on my way to completing this thing!


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 Post subject: Cheers!
PostPosted: Wed Dec 29, 2010 10:36 pm 
retrobike rider
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Location: Exeter
As always thanks for the positive comments!

It was fun doing the fork brace, but I wished I had a pillar drill!

It was also Ironic doing really careful handwork, in order to replicate the look of machining!

And taking hours to do what a CNC machine would have buzzed off in seconds

But it looks like it should now!

And I have time to burn as I'm stuck waiting for stuff

That frame is going to be all chromey MIRROR!


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 Post subject: Colour!
PostPosted: Thu Dec 30, 2010 9:53 pm 
retrobike rider
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Joined: Sat Nov 06, 2010 11:40 am
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Location: Exeter
And now in colour!

Image

Anodised 7005 self extractor bolts were £9

Pedals were a gift

Crank bolts were £5

Rings already owned


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Dec 30, 2010 10:12 pm 
retrobike rider / Gold Trader
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Joined: Mon Jun 22, 2009 11:09 am
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Nice work again.

Am giving the caustic soda a go tomorrow or sat ona stem. Am nervously excited seeing your results!


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Dec 30, 2010 10:21 pm 
retrobike rider
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coomber wrote:
Nice work again.

Am giving the caustic soda a go tomorrow or sat ona stem. Am nervously excited seeing your results!


Cool man it has awesome power

Be sure to play safe!


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 Post subject: Wheel building!
PostPosted: Fri Dec 31, 2010 9:12 pm 
retrobike rider
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Joined: Sat Nov 06, 2010 11:40 am
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Location: Exeter
If you wanna build wheels read this, if not perhaps not, it is LONG

Still waiting on loads of small parts that will complete the build

Including a pack of spoke nipples!

One pack has arrived, one hasn't so I built one wheel just to see how it will look and to post the process

Here goes;

Here's the kit - I'm greasing my nipples - Ooh err - cos mine are a similar material to the rim and I don't want them to jam together sometime down the line:

Image

The wheel I'm building is 36 spoke, laced in a 'three cross' pattern (meaning each spoke crosses three others)

So to begin with we are wanting to do all our work work from the drive side of the hub and rim

Looking at the rim you will se that the spoke hole drillings are angled alternately left and right... But which side is which?

We want the markngs on the rim to be readable from the drive side, which makes our decision!

We want to start with an inside spoke on the drive side of the hub (the drive side of the hub is easier to identify) :wink:

We want the first spoke we insert to go the hole which is nearest the right of the valve hole (or clockwise) and drilled for the correct angle, so it will be a right side spoke hole

In our case this is second hole to the right/clockwise of the valve hole viewed from the drive side

Image

*********************

- This bit is purely optional

I want the marking on the hub to line up with - and be readable through the valve hole

So I find the markings and rotate the hub six spoke holes counter clockwise (left) If our firt hole was right next to the valve hole I would have rotated it by five holes

*********************

Back to the proper stuff!

Let's begin:

Image

Then skip one hole on the hub and three on the rim - clockwise - and insert the next spoke

Image

These first spokes all run up the inside of the hub flange, the heads sit against the outside. Only put the nipples on a couple of turns

Continue all the way around the wheel...

Image

The spokes will seem really long and it won't look anything like a wheel, but keep the faith!

Now we want to do the non drive side inside spokes:

You will need to flip the wheel over

To get first of the non drive side spokes in the right place, look for your first spoke that you put in

It will be nearest the valve hole, but now on the left of the valve hole

Looking at the hub square on you should notice that the holes on the dive and non drive sides are offset

This is important

Your first non drive inside spoke will go into the hole which is offset to the right (clockwise) of the hole that your first drive side spoke went into

Image

It will go to the hole in the rim which is immediately to ther right (clockwise) from the spoke on the drive side

If you have done it right, these spokes shouldn't cross over

Again the heads are all on the outside of the hub...

keep this pattern going all the way around the rim

Image

Now this is where the 'lacing' comes in

The out side spokes cross the inside spokes

Working from the drive side again, find your first spoke (that you began with all that time ago)

Insert a spoke into the hole in the hub wich is immediately couter clockwise (to the left) of that spoke

This spoke will be running on the outside of the hub, the head will be inside

Now this spoke will run clockwise accross your first spoke and the drive side inside spoke which is in the next hole but one on the drive side

It will cross over these two... On the outside of the wheel...

It will also cross one more drive side spoke, but this time it will cross under... Or run inside...

That's your three crosses (we are only considering drive side spokes in counting crosses)

Some bending about will be neccessary to the lacing to happen, try not to mark your rim with the spoke

You will now see that the spokes aren't too long at all

Image

Same spoke pictured from another angle:

Image

Same spoke pictured from yet another angle:

Image

Carry on around and it will now start to look very wheel like

Image

We're 75% done!

Image

Frome here on in it's fairly obvious;

Same pattern as before except these are to the right (clockwise) from the inside, non drive side spokes and will run counter clockwise

Same three cross pattern crossing over two and under one of the inside spokes

Image

Over, over:

Image

Under:

Image

And finally!

Image

You can get basic tesion on all the spokes nice and quickly like this:

Image

Tighten them one turn at a time and you should end up with a fairly true round wheel, which you can then true up easily


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Dec 31, 2010 9:26 pm 
retrobike rider / Gold Trader
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Joined: Mon Jun 22, 2009 11:09 am
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Tempted to give this a go one day! Thanks for the advice!

By the way did the caustic soda trick with the stem. Worked a beauty. Fumes were appalling though you are right to warn me on that.

Happy new year!


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 Post subject: Cool
PostPosted: Fri Dec 31, 2010 11:47 pm 
retrobike rider
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Joined: Sat Nov 06, 2010 11:40 am
Posts: 1691
Location: Exeter
Well done mate!

That caustic soda saves hell of a lot of time!

And you don't end up with deep scratches to get rid of!

- The wheelbuilding thing is more confusing/time consuming to write up than it is to do!

Judging by your willingness to give it a shot, my write up made some sense!?

- Happy new year to you too!


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Jan 01, 2011 12:10 am 
retrobike rider
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Joined: Fri May 14, 2010 10:08 pm
Posts: 1326
Location: West Midlands
Nice attention to detail with the writing on the hub lining up with the valve, a sign of a confident wheel builder (so I've read :oops: ).


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