1993 Raleigh Peak - another one !

This restoration / rescue mission started with the frame, BB, stems and wheels. I decided to use a Girvin Flexstem in place of the Zoom Competition stem. I had the drive side half of the chainset, but the pedal threads were stripped, so that had to be replaced being a signature item.

The 'Iridescent Amber' frame had been vandalised with black and silver rattle can spray paint for some reason. Whilst the black areas can be seen in the picture provided, the smaller specks all over the frame are not so obvious. Wire wool was necessary to get most of it off because various solvents just didn't do anything. The iridescent / pearl effect is in the top lacquer coat it seems and this became a casualty with heavy rubbing so I took the decision to minimise rather than completely remove the black.

I decided to use 1991 Deore DX for all but the chainset and the cantilever brakes. The hubs on my set of Rigida Laser 400 wheels were Deore DX for some reason so they polished up nicely of course.

The handlebar is the titanium alloy one from the top of the range Summit. I think the creature that I bought the bike from had the Peak handlebar somewhere, but he couldn't find it on the day and both himself and his backyard were a disgrace so I just wanted to get away. He knew how to ruin bikes, strip them and pile them. Cleaning or reassembly was beyond him.

This joins my mint restored 1992 Apex and the 1992 Ravine that I am working on. I'm not even a Raleigh fan, I just like these K2 framed models from 92/3 although I also have a yellow 1997 Max Chromo which I have improved and I rate it; not that heavy at all with decent components. I'm also working on a 1993 Dynatech which is in fact a Raleigh Randonneur/Royal 531ST frame in Dynatech house livery with a completely different factory component spec including Campag Record hubs.

This 1993 Peak restoration was started just before mine and gave me some motivation: viewtopic.php?f=6&t=406229

Some new information on the Reynolds K2 tubing here: viewtopic.php?f=1&t=408417

Looking good!

I’d try t-cut or brasso (my personal favourite) on the remaining black bits. Usually this sort of paint is softer than the factory applied finish so you should be able to remove it without damaging the lacquer.

Re:

Thanks for the advice but the frame has already seen a lot of T-Cut and I just don't want to degrade the lacquer any more - I'm through to the orange base coat in some places. I expected to shift the overspray with relative ease, but it just didn't work out that way. Every speck actually needs to be chipped off the lacquer, but I can't be bothered!

Re decals: A laminated set can be obtained from Gil at Retrodecals for £31 posted, but it lacks the seat tube decal with the globe. The non laminated set for use under the lacquer following a respray is £5 less. For him to make the laminated set complete with the seat tube decal would up the cost to £46 posted. He might do a better price for more than one set I suppose, not sure. I could do with the main name decal at some point...

Just to clear things up, I have done other models from this period and do have the initial set on file, until now I've not seen the seat tube "Globe" image so I allowed 30-45mins to re-draw this and then add it to the set
For a clean finish I suggest taking a standard set and then applying a clear coat after applying the decals, I realise this isn't always possible, so I offer a laminated set which can be applied to the final paint finish, this is an additional process and material so does incur another charge
If this was a more commonly restored model I would obviously draw up the image without the charge but I can't currently offer this I'm afraid

Hope that clears things up

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Maiden voyage today.

The new KMC chain didn't like the cassette and it skipped on cogs 3-5 badly. I thought the cassette looked just about acceptable when I cleaned it and put it on originally, but a closer look confirmed the wear on it - always worth a try though. Whether a semi worn chain would have fared better I'm not sure as I always use new - guessing it would fare a little better though.

A new high end Hyperglide C cassette would not fit - too skinny without the proper inboard spacer and too fat with it. I was suspicious about the 11T ring being a rogue in place of the usual 12T, but it is a 11-28T of the same pattern as a 1994 STX Special Edition smoked chrome cassette I have, so I guess it is as it should be. I have since found a barely used lower grade 13-30 that fits nicely without a spacer - no skipping now.

The Deore DX STIs had gummed up solid as usual so they were stripped and the pawls brought back to full activation. Working well now though not as good as a modern cheapo.

That saddle is awful - don't know what it came off. When I source a better one I'll have nowt left to do except apply a set of decals. Black mudguards looked ok on Bluetomgold's Peak so I'm semi tempted...

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You can have the mudguards that came off mine if you want them... I’ve got a surplus here! Drop me a pm...