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PostPosted: Wed Nov 21, 2012 12:14 am 
Retro Guru

Joined: Tue Oct 16, 2012 4:16 pm
Posts: 1568
Location: NOTTINGHAM
The "14 bike co" in London use Armourtex and I have to say those bikes look fabulous.

I'll certainly be putting those names you provided onto t'interweb - much appreciated.

Decals won't be an issue - re-pro Reynolds are the only ones going back on and I'm ok with them sitting on top of the lacquer. Frames just need some TLC and paint and putting back on the road, they're nicely built, light but not of any great stature in the pyramid of bikes so some rust removal and new paint will be just the ticket...


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PostPosted: Wed Nov 21, 2012 10:09 am 
retrobike rider
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Joined: Sat Jul 14, 2012 3:03 pm
Posts: 1773
Location: In the village
My 5p worth.
I spoke to a Chrome plate company in London and when I mentioned shot blasting he nearly fainted.

Apparently it's not so brilliant as it can do a lot of damage to a bike.
Dip and strip seems to be the way to go with less damage done to the metal surface.

Armourtex shot blast the frames and powder coat after, I know that as I asked them. They do charge reasonable rates though.

Not them but see below. Ouch! Don't think I want that texture on my bike frame.

http://www.retrobike.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.php?t=192070


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PostPosted: Wed Nov 21, 2012 4:36 pm 
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Joined: Wed Mar 09, 2011 6:01 pm
Posts: 1339
Location: Birch, Essex, UK
Armourtex don't shot blast frames as mentioned too dangerous for frames.....they use grit.....the chemicals is reserved for alu frames.

Here are there prices etc

http://www.armourtexltd.co.uk/pricelist2012.pdf


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PostPosted: Wed Nov 21, 2012 5:22 pm 
retrobike rider
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Well he said they were shot blasted so I didn't go any further with that.

You want to use plastic, soda or glass media if you don't want to leave any texture on the steel.


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PostPosted: Wed Nov 21, 2012 6:39 pm 
Retro Guru

Joined: Tue Oct 16, 2012 4:16 pm
Posts: 1568
Location: NOTTINGHAM
I think the important thing is to ask exactly what process is going to be used, piece of mind is a big thing in my book.

I read that using crushed walnuts is the most sympathetic agent to use on metal, I believe this to of american origin and pretty darn expensive! quite how someone discovered this is beyond me.

Price list for armourtex seems very reasonable so I think I'll make contact with them - thanks for the link.

gents - thanks for your input - i certainly know more now than before i started this thread...


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PostPosted: Fri Nov 23, 2012 1:49 am 
Dirt Disciple

Joined: Fri Jun 05, 2009 1:41 pm
Posts: 51
I've had several steel frames poweder-coated by Armourtex and they do a very good job. They get a lot of steel frames and if there were issues with their processes, I think they would have come to light by now.

Enamelling gives a deeper, more velvety finish, but it is a lot more expensive and not as tough, so probably only worth it for your Sunday special.


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PostPosted: Fri Nov 23, 2012 2:21 pm 
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Location: Birch, Essex, UK
destry wrote:
I've had several steel frames poweder-coated by Armourtex and they do a very good job. They get a lot of steel frames and if there were issues with their processes, I think they would have come to light by now.

Enamelling gives a deeper, more velvety finish, but it is a lot more expensive and not as tough, so probably only worth it for your Sunday special.


+1.....plus as i mentioned above, you must leave a newly enamelled frame time for the paint to harden [at least 1 month] before it can be built up otherwise the pain will chip quite easily.


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