Kona Explosif titanium frame
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Pipmeister
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TD75":1v4gffhu said:
If you just want to shine it up a bit, then just use Brasso or Duraglit metal polish wadding.
I can give some useful instructions with some photos of before and after if you’re looking into more than a quick buff up, but please do pop up a picture of your frame.
Pip.
Harryburgundy
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Depends on the required finish...personally I think Ti looks shit with a high polish. Hot soapy water and gentle scotchbrite.
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I'm currently collecting parts to build it up, wheel size is 27.5. There is just a few very minor spots that I'd like to clean up. But I'm not too bothered if it's best to just leave it.
I'm currently collecting parts to build it up, wheel size is 27.5. There is just a few very minor spots that I'd like to clean up. But I'm not too bothered if it's best to just leave it.
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Pipmeister
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Nice looking frame.
This is a comprehensive answer that may help anyone reading this thread.
As H.B. says, you can indeed obtain very acceptable results using Scotchbrite hand pads.
If you want to remove the scratches which I can see in that first picture, then you will need to work hard using a series of course to fine grades. If the decals on your frame are thin transfers, you’ll struggle to get the same amount of elbow grease into each tube that results in the before and after shown below - look away H.B. :!:
However it looks like the “decals” are etched (would this be correct?) so you can still do this process to a certain extent; I managed to get a good finish on a pair of X-Lite Ti Bars, while still preserving the etched logos.
Once you start this, you need to stick at it, and believe me, it can become very tiring.
You may initially need to use Wire Wool on those deeper scratches, which seem to be on the underside of the Down Tube? – it’s difficult for me to figure it out!
Next, just sit down with a towel over your legs, and the frame on your lap, and pick a tube per session / evening…. unless you have arms like a tyre fitter.
Chose which direction you want the grain to go – the Bottom Bracket and the Head Tube can look odd with the grain travelling along the length of the tube, although some may think that the other tubes look odd with a length-wise gain.
Start with Scotchbrite Green, then when you’ve done the entire frame, move onto a Maroon pad, then Grey. I understand that there is a White Scotchbrite fine, but I finished mine off with some Farecla G3 rubbing compound, which is somewhat expensive. I would suggest wearing rubber gloves, or be prepared to have your finger prints looking like permanent tattoos for a while.
If this process seems like a lot of effort and you just want to bling it up a bit, then as I mentioned earlier, use Metal Polish wading.
Before – a shot outside in natural light:
97 King Kahuna Pre Buff by Philip Mock, on Flickr
AND after – somewhat cheating with a flash indoors, but you get the idea:
97 King Kahuna Post Buff by Philip Mock, on Flickr
Pip.
Nice looking frame.
This is a comprehensive answer that may help anyone reading this thread.
As H.B. says, you can indeed obtain very acceptable results using Scotchbrite hand pads.
If you want to remove the scratches which I can see in that first picture, then you will need to work hard using a series of course to fine grades. If the decals on your frame are thin transfers, you’ll struggle to get the same amount of elbow grease into each tube that results in the before and after shown below - look away H.B. :!:
However it looks like the “decals” are etched (would this be correct?) so you can still do this process to a certain extent; I managed to get a good finish on a pair of X-Lite Ti Bars, while still preserving the etched logos.
Once you start this, you need to stick at it, and believe me, it can become very tiring.
You may initially need to use Wire Wool on those deeper scratches, which seem to be on the underside of the Down Tube? – it’s difficult for me to figure it out!
Next, just sit down with a towel over your legs, and the frame on your lap, and pick a tube per session / evening…. unless you have arms like a tyre fitter.
Chose which direction you want the grain to go – the Bottom Bracket and the Head Tube can look odd with the grain travelling along the length of the tube, although some may think that the other tubes look odd with a length-wise gain.
Start with Scotchbrite Green, then when you’ve done the entire frame, move onto a Maroon pad, then Grey. I understand that there is a White Scotchbrite fine, but I finished mine off with some Farecla G3 rubbing compound, which is somewhat expensive. I would suggest wearing rubber gloves, or be prepared to have your finger prints looking like permanent tattoos for a while.
If this process seems like a lot of effort and you just want to bling it up a bit, then as I mentioned earlier, use Metal Polish wading.
Before – a shot outside in natural light:
97 King Kahuna Pre Buff by Philip Mock, on FlickrAND after – somewhat cheating with a flash indoors, but you get the idea:
97 King Kahuna Post Buff by Philip Mock, on FlickrPip.
Thanks 'pipmeister' for posting that 'How to guide'. I love the look of the 97 King Kahuna in the after picture. For the Explosif frame I'd just like to get rid of the scratches on the underside of the down tube and restore the original finish. Sounds like Scotchbrite hand pads will be the best thing for that. I think the decals are etched, there definitely not stickers.
Will I need to do the whole frame or just the areas where the scratches are?
Where is the best place to get the different grades of Scotchbrite hand pads?
'fattiman' - New I think this frame retails at £1699. I picked this one up for £600. No idea if thats a good price, but I've wanted an explosif since my teens. I've always had steel frames and I fancied a Titanium frame to see what the difference is. Frame looks lovely in the flesh. Currently collecting parts for the build, one things for certain, it will have Skinwall tyres. It's a real shame you can't get titanium Project 2's to match the frame.
Will I need to do the whole frame or just the areas where the scratches are?
Where is the best place to get the different grades of Scotchbrite hand pads?
'fattiman' - New I think this frame retails at £1699. I picked this one up for £600. No idea if thats a good price, but I've wanted an explosif since my teens. I've always had steel frames and I fancied a Titanium frame to see what the difference is. Frame looks lovely in the flesh. Currently collecting parts for the build, one things for certain, it will have Skinwall tyres. It's a real shame you can't get titanium Project 2's to match the frame.
Pipmeister
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Re:
To eliminate the scratches completely, you will need to rub the surface area around them deep enough to flatten the area off.
You may however manage to hide them enough with just the direction of the grain that you choose, without going so deep. The problem that you could face is that the "new" finish may not match the rest of the frame, although you can probably blend it in and finish it all off with metal polish wading.
You can get grades of Scotchbrite pads from a Motor Factors that does paint and body repair - even Halfords!
The pictures below are the pair of X-Lite Ti bars that I mentioned earlier. I really went for it on these, and the etched logo remained intact - the somewhat faint appearance is how they appeared before I started.
You can see which direction I chose for the grain:
X Lite XLR Pro Ti_b by Philip Mock, on Flickr
X Lite XLR Pro TI by Philip Mock, on Flickr
Pip.
To eliminate the scratches completely, you will need to rub the surface area around them deep enough to flatten the area off.
You may however manage to hide them enough with just the direction of the grain that you choose, without going so deep. The problem that you could face is that the "new" finish may not match the rest of the frame, although you can probably blend it in and finish it all off with metal polish wading.
You can get grades of Scotchbrite pads from a Motor Factors that does paint and body repair - even Halfords!
The pictures below are the pair of X-Lite Ti bars that I mentioned earlier. I really went for it on these, and the etched logo remained intact - the somewhat faint appearance is how they appeared before I started.
You can see which direction I chose for the grain:
X Lite XLR Pro Ti_b by Philip Mock, on FlickrX Lite XLR Pro TI by Philip Mock, on FlickrPip.
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