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PostPosted: Sun Apr 07, 2013 4:54 pm 
Retro Guru
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Joined: Fri Jan 12, 2007 1:32 pm
Posts: 1953
Location: Staffordshire
Depends how tight the race is...I've had a few that have been horrible to get on so wouldn't want to put that much pressure on the bearings or star dangled nut (my sun line one was so tight that when I tried that method it just ripped the star fanged nut out).

Once you've bought a race tool you'll have it forever.


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PostPosted: Sun Apr 07, 2013 4:55 pm 
retrobike rider / Gold Trader
retrobike rider / Gold Trader
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Joined: Tue Apr 20, 2010 11:29 pm
Posts: 1315
Location: South Buckinghamshire
cyfa2809 wrote:
Just slot the race on as much as you can. Then assemble headset etc. and steerer all together. Set it up like you were to finalise it. Just do the top cap bolt up until it seats the race. Use a good bolt and cap and try and get the race going down parallel.


A ha! That's some trust in a star nut.


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PostPosted: Sun Apr 07, 2013 5:06 pm 
Gold Trader / rb Rider / Special
Gold Trader / rb Rider / Special
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Joined: Mon Aug 31, 2009 12:26 am
Posts: 16165
Location: Rurally close.
Always been fine for me.


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PostPosted: Sun Apr 07, 2013 10:31 pm 
Gold Trader
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Joined: Wed Jun 20, 2007 11:19 pm
Posts: 7006
Location: Odense, Denmark
Cyfa's method never worked for me when I was in the bodging stage of my spannering career....

Older race is still available. They sent me one the other week that I'd muddled the part numbers up on....


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PostPosted: Thu Apr 11, 2013 11:49 pm 
retrobike rider / Gold Trader
retrobike rider / Gold Trader
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Joined: Tue Apr 20, 2010 11:29 pm
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Location: South Buckinghamshire
Replacement race arrived.

Image

A lot lighter than the old one and has a split in it which I assume is to prevent what happened to the old one when you try to remove it.

Not yet decided how to fit it.


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PostPosted: Sun Apr 14, 2013 1:38 pm 
Old School Hero
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Joined: Sat Feb 02, 2013 1:18 pm
Posts: 195
Location: Japan
So just an observation and a few questions from one successful E4 complete rebuild and one (to date) less successful rebuild. Although both brakes are E4s they weren't bought at the same time, maybe a year apart, and the rear has seen quite a bit more use than the front.

Observation- what Hope called a "Seal Kit Complete" in 2003 and the allegedly same "Seal Kit Complete" in 2013 are not in fact the same, despite having the same part #. The 2003 kit had all the caliper seals, caliper O-ring, lever piston spring, circlip, brass washer, lever adjust screw, lever dust boot, bleed nipple cover and a small aluminium tube the utility of which I'm yet to ascertain. The 2013 kit had all of the rubber bits but none of the metal bits which I actually needed as the allen head on the lever adjust screw had rounded and wouldn't budge until I got a clamp on the bastard and gave it no chioce but to move or completely destroy the village in the process. It moved. Anyway more on that later.

The front went easy and smoothly but took me ages as it was my first disco. After a few practice bleeds I got it feeling pretty nice. Need new brake pads but everything is moving smoothly, no shims needed and even the Hope screech I came to love has all but gone, just a few muted protest squeals, a bit of fade but more than happy with it. 1-0 VB.

The rear has been a bit more problematic. Caliper rebuild went to plan, always fun getting those 4 pistons out, but eventually I made them yield to my will (and my young fella with some serious pumping on the track pump helped). Made sure I cleaned the pistons as well as I could before putting them back and bathed in Dot 4 (not me, the pistons, though I do quite like the smell of Dot 4 it's just a bit rough on the old plums). The lever rebuild was a serious pain in the arse. No new lever adjust screw was the first fly in the ointment but no problem I thought I'll just use the old one out of the front. Except they were different sizes, at least the round head that pushes the piston is, which made the brass washer a different size and the piston spring assembly where the round head of the lever adjust screw pushes against it a different size as well. You can see the parts I'm talking about in this pic. Parts from the front lever. Smaller than the parts from the rear lever.
Attachment:
IMG_0211.JPG
IMG_0211.JPG [ 109.13 KiB | Viewed 91 times ]

As you can see the brass washer is almost rissoled but a few belts from the hammer made it seaworthy but obviously I'd like shiny new bits, new bits that I thought I'd already paid for but obviously haven't. So to question one: I know I can get these small parts from Hope but is the lever adjust screw replacement part the small size or the larger size? If it's the large size I think I can get away with re-using the brass washer and piston spring that came from the rear lever as they are in better nick than the parts shown above.

Despite this I could reassemble everything and got some new fluid through the system. Problem is, despite the new pistons seals and my cleaning efforts the pistons on one side of the caliper are not moving freely and consequently braking power is virtually non existent. 1-1 VB. The pistons do move just not as far as the pistons on the other side, causing the rotor to flex. Also notice that the caliper halves visibly flex when the lever is squeezed. Think my first port of call might be new bolts for the caliper halves. Then new pads. Then, if all else fails, new pistons. So question 2: I know Hope sells pistons for the M4 calipers, phenolic black ones different from the pistons in mine but function trumps form. Will these pistons fit in my E4s? I know the M4 has different sized pistons but one of them is the same size as the E4. Big one or small one?

I know a quick phone call to Hope will answer all my questions but thought asking here might help create a bit of a reference base to help others. Sorry for the wall of text. It was theraputic for me though and now I'll have a ciggy.


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PostPosted: Fri Apr 26, 2013 2:03 pm 
Old School Hero
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Joined: Sat Feb 02, 2013 1:18 pm
Posts: 195
Location: Japan
More for my own edification than anything else I thought I'd present the successful conclusion to my E4 rebuild.

Last week on a very rare night when I was here by myself I gave the blokes at Hope a ring to see if I could sort out my rear caliper. The young turk there freely admitted that the e4s were before his time but he did confirm that they still had spare parts for the E4s (and by extension the DH4s as well I guess). I did glean one good tip from him though, bit of silicon spray on the pistons before you put the caliper back together should get them moving freely.

Anyway so I got them all back together but annoyingly still had the same lack of power and brake fluid was going everywhere. Buggery hell, put the BB7s back on and went for a ride. Got back and had a bit more of a play with them but they were still the same, weak and leaky. Then I noticed I had connected the hose up to the bleed side of the caliper and the bleed nipple in the hose side. You moron bastard VB. Swapped them over today and did a bleed and hallelujah they were back to their best with no leaks. So today for the first time in 8 years I rode my bike with Hope E4 front and rear brakes in full working condition. And when I got home had some shiny new bits from BETD waiting for me. Today, a good day.


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