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 Post subject: Re: Chain wear checker
PostPosted: Mon Dec 03, 2012 3:59 am 
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Joined: Fri Sep 22, 2006 1:12 am
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Location: Hobart, Tasmania, Australia
cyfa2809 wrote:
02gf74 wrote:
.75 means replace chain very very soon
1.0 means replace chain now or it may be too late


I disagree. .75 is change chain now. 1% elongation is usually change drivetrain though you can sometimes get away with keeping some parts if your lucky.


I’ll put a different spin on it.

I let one of my 9 speed XTR drivetrains wear a little too much but decided to change to drivetrain when it starts to play up. That was three years and ~5000km ago and it’s still working beautifully.

So all is not lost if you let things wear a bit past the simple chain change. Leave the chain on and change this when they are completely worn out.

It’s also worth saving the worn chains, chain rings and cassettes as most of the time they have plenty of life left for commuter or occasional bike builds.


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 Post subject: Re: Chain wear checker
PostPosted: Mon Dec 03, 2012 4:27 am 
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Location: Hobart, Tasmania, Australia
jimo746 wrote:
My question is... are they all much of a muchness? obviously the common wear indicators will be .5 and .75, but I need a checker that will work on 3/32 and 1/8 chains 7,8,9 speed etc.

Anyone recommend one?


I couldn't see where anyone had answered this bit, but all bike chains are 1/2" pitch any any checker will work on the different width chains.

I have a Park Tools and Rohloff and really there isn't any difference in how they measure so anything will do and you'll soon learn when to change the chain with whatever tool you have.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Dec 07, 2012 11:49 pm 
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I use the Park CC-2 and a 12" rule in the shop. The ruler method seems to work as well and just measure link enlongatiom.

The checker adds elongation to pin and roller wear. The checker seems to indicate a chain changing sooner than the ruler does. I have come to the conclusion change the chain when the park thingy reach 1.0 which corresponds to ~ 1/8" elongation with a ruler.

I am not sure it ecomic for most drivetrains to change the chain early. Fpr sopme really expensive cassette like Campag super record the early chain changing would be ecomionic but no cheaper 7, 8 9 and 10 speed systems I don't think this holds up too well.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Dec 10, 2012 12:52 am 
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Location: Hove
I don't see the point in buying a checker when a ruler does the same job perfectly easily.

Although I accept what Andrew is saying, I personally would change a chain when it gets to 12 1/8 for 24 links, which is almost the same as 1%. I suppose it depends whether you use expensive chains, but as rings and cassettes are so expensive now, one strategy would be to use cheapish chains and change them at 12 1/16, in which case you should get very good mileage out of the rings and sprockets, especially if you keep the chain clean.


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