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 Post subject: Freehub removal
PostPosted: Sat Sep 01, 2012 8:18 pm 
Dirt Disciple
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Joined: Thu Aug 04, 2011 8:40 am
Posts: 22
Location: Where sheep are afraid, isn't it ?
Hi Guys
Bought a (circa 2003) Carrera Banshee which had some 'play' in the 9 speed Cassette. I've stripped it down, as far as you can see:

Image

The play seems to in the Freewheel bearing, but I'm unsure how to renove the Freewheel, and whether clockwise, or anti-clockwise.
Do I buy a Big 'F**k Off ' Allen wrench (about 14mm, at a guess) and unscrew the very centre of the Freehub, OR will using a two-eared spigot tool, (one locating slot shown) allow it to be removed ?

Secondly, has anyone experienced, anything like the following weird phenomenon found ON the actual bearing track, which I have tried to show in the photo. (tiny white spot, lowermost surface of cup).

Image

It's like a minature doughnut. The strange thing is it's completely regular in shape, as though it has been factory stamped :shock: , but as you can feel it with your finger, it doesn't seem the ideal thing to have on your Bearing Track ! :cry:

Cheers Guys
terminator


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Sep 01, 2012 8:36 pm 
Gold Trader / rb Rider / Special
Gold Trader / rb Rider / Special
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Joined: Mon Aug 31, 2009 12:26 am
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Location: Rurally close.
Im temtped to say its an 11mm allen key but we did order a 14mm allen key a while back which may have also been for freehubs.
I normally put the allen key in a vice, t part in, then drop the wheel onto it and as i recall its normal rotation then.

I havent serviced freehub bodies before but have always thought those 2 slots would give access to the internals.

Maybe a better picture of the little bit on the cone would help?


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Sep 01, 2012 10:33 pm 
National & North West AEC
National & North West AEC
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Joined: Mon Nov 03, 2008 12:43 am
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Location: Macclesfield Forest
If it's a Shimano hub then it'll need a 10mm allen key to remove the freehub body. (Looks like a Shimano freehub from your photo)
I've also serviced some other hubs with 11mm or 12mm bolts. Never had one with a 14mm bolt though.

The marking on the cone could be due to a bearing which has 'flat spotted'. Quite common with cheap bearings and poorly adjusted cones.

The slots will allow the freehub body to be disassembled. It will have an anti-clockwise thread but, to be honest, by the time you're considering taking them apart to service it's usually much more cost and time effective just to find a replacement. There are lots and lots of bearings which will roll away under the nearest immovable object.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Sep 02, 2012 9:21 am 
Dirt Disciple

Joined: Tue May 01, 2012 9:18 pm
Posts: 48
Location: Northampton
As above, Shimano free hub requires a 10mm allen key and either a vice or a length of pipe on the end to get enough leverage to loosen.

From your photos you're beyond the stage of ball bearings escaping, so hopefully you made a note of the order that things came apart in.

If the freehub is not to far gone, a good clean and rinse through with WD40 or alike may return the action to something more acceptable.

Hope that helps.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Sep 02, 2012 9:39 am 
Gold Trader / rb Rider / Special
Gold Trader / rb Rider / Special
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Location: Rurally close.
But it would run dry on wd40?


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Sep 02, 2012 9:43 am 
retrobike rider
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Joined: Fri Aug 08, 2008 2:36 pm
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Location: Yorkshire, England
It's the newer Shimano freehubs with the Alu axles that use the 14mm allen key, e.g. M770 rear XT hub (FH-M770).

Don't know what that hub is but these should give you a general guide.
http://techdocs.shimano.com/media/techd ... 604153.pdf (bottom right corner)
how it fits
http://techdocs.shimano.com/media/techd ... 800934.pdf


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 Post subject: Freehub removal
PostPosted: Sun Sep 02, 2012 11:36 am 
Dirt Disciple
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Joined: Thu Aug 04, 2011 8:40 am
Posts: 22
Location: Where sheep are afraid, isn't it ?
Here's another view of the Freehub from a slightly different angle :

Image

A 10mm Allen wrench will rotate easily inside, without touching the sides :shock: which made me 'guesstimate' at 14mm.
No markings on hub to help, but took out 1/4" Ball Bearings from EACH side of the Hub (thought Shimano had different sizes ?).
Curiously, on the Disc Rotor side, there were only EIGHT ball bearings instead of the nine on the drive side, and of course a big gap in the race.
This may have helped cause the indentation mentioned before, on the opposite (drive side), which I now have a better close-up (with my G/f's DECENT camera) .

Image

You may be able to magnify the image as the picture quality is v. good.
It looks as though a bearing has welded itself momentarily, then torn itself free. :? I didn't notice any of them which were obviously damaged, during grease removal. Will have to check them again.
Any more ideas for make of hub and or dismantling welcome.
Cheers Guys
terminator


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Sep 02, 2012 12:42 pm 
Gold Trader / rb Rider / Special
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Joined: Mon Aug 31, 2009 12:26 am
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Location: Rurally close.
Does like slightly pitted, i expect it would be hard to re use that cone and get a good feel on the hub.


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 Post subject: Freehub removal
PostPosted: Sun Sep 02, 2012 2:19 pm 
Dirt Disciple
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Joined: Thu Aug 04, 2011 8:40 am
Posts: 22
Location: Where sheep are afraid, isn't it ?
:D Success !
Took courage in both hands and used the ' Bodger's Dodge ' (snipe nose pliers) shown on the previous page to THIS one :

http://www.instructables.com/id/Rebuild ... -of-parts/

CLOCKWISE to Undo ! (as stated)

Removed the thinnest of the shims (shown above) and managed to reassemble without any of the millions of teeny bearings (upper and lower race) from escaping.
Result : Freewheel Hub 'Play' massively reduced. :P

Thanks for the help and encouragement, :wink:
Cheers
terminator


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Sep 02, 2012 2:25 pm 
Gold Trader / rb Rider / Special
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Joined: Mon Aug 31, 2009 12:26 am
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Location: Rurally close.
Nice find and good joqb. Did you clean and regrease it all?


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