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PostPosted: Mon Aug 20, 2012 5:33 pm 
retrobike rider / Gold Trader
retrobike rider / Gold Trader
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Joined: Tue Nov 03, 2009 2:43 pm
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Location: At the pinnacle of fuckwittery
Cheers fellas, 8)

The frame doesn't have horiz dropouts, and I'm gonna attempt without a tensioner as well. :shock: I owned a cannondale SS before (but didn't personally build it) and this was the same set-up without any problems of the chain jumping off, even when I was bouncing around at max cadence.. 8)


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PostPosted: Mon Aug 20, 2012 5:39 pm 
retrobike rider
retrobike rider
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Joined: Tue Jan 29, 2008 11:04 pm
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Location: A wretched hive of scum and villainy...
You might be able to get away without a tensioner :D
Have a look at the Fix Me Up calculator first.

All the best,


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PostPosted: Mon Aug 20, 2012 8:54 pm 
Old School Grand Master
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Joined: Fri May 01, 2009 7:11 pm
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Location: Fircombe.
A velosolo spacer kit is your chainline friend!


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PostPosted: Tue Aug 21, 2012 5:20 pm 
Retro Guru
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Joined: Thu Sep 17, 2009 9:18 pm
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Location: South Yorkshire
Check out post #7 for a very neat way to get your chainline spot on:

http://forums.mtbr.com/singlespeed/why-does-happen-736137.html#post8417452


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PostPosted: Tue Aug 21, 2012 6:06 pm 
retrobike rider
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Location: A wretched hive of scum and villainy...
That's a smart method...like it :D

Just make sure of the rear hub/dropout width and halve it for the length of the 'skewer' indicator.
Should be OK if it's a MTB cassette conversion, but dedicated singlespeed hubs can be different.
It's not always 135mm, could be 120, 126, 130 or 135mm, or even bigger these days. :twisted:

All the best,


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PostPosted: Tue Aug 21, 2012 9:47 pm 
Retro Guru
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Location: UK Southwest
sic_nick wrote:
Check out post #7 for a very neat way to get your chainline spot on:

http://forums.mtbr.com/singlespeed/why-does-happen-736137.html#post8417452


JamesM wrote:
measure from the centre of the seat tube to the teeth on the chainring and then make sure the rear sprocket is the same distance from the centre of the hub.


:wink:


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PostPosted: Wed Aug 22, 2012 8:37 am 
retrobike rider
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Location: A wretched hive of scum and villainy...
Quote:
measure from the centre of the seat tube to the teeth on the chainring and then make sure the rear sprocket is the same distance from the centre of the hub. :wink:

True, James, it is the same thing really, but it's not easy to find the centre of the hubshell, or to measure from it avoiding the flanges and spokes. The method above is extra smart as it uses only one measurement and the dropout face as a fixed and firm reference.

I still prefer a bit of maths, or a straightedge myself :wink:

All the best,


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PostPosted: Wed Aug 22, 2012 11:56 am 
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Location: It's not easy being a dolphin.
I measure the front chain line by putting an engineers metal ruler pushed next to the seat-tube over the chain ring, read it off then add half of the seat-tube diameter. It's more precise and less fiddly as you don't need to guess where is the center of the seat-tube.

Then take the above number, subtract it from half of the rear axle OLN distance and you have the required rear matching chain-line measured from the center of rear sprocket to the RH axle / inside drop-out.

Taller sprocket teeth are far more important than a chain line within +/- 1mm.


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PostPosted: Wed Aug 22, 2012 12:03 pm 
Gold Trader
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Joined: Wed Feb 04, 2009 9:40 pm
Posts: 2157
Location: Nottingham
Don't some folk like to make life difficult! A straight edge really does do the job!


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PostPosted: Thu Aug 23, 2012 7:58 pm 
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Location: UK Southwest
If you have a straight edge long enough!!!


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