Setting the correct chainline - SS

Cheers fellas,

The frame doesn't have horiz dropouts, and I'm gonna attempt without a tensioner as well. I owned a cannondale SS before (but didn't personally build it) and this was the same set-up without any problems of the chain jumping off, even when I was bouncing around at max cadence..

You might be able to get away without a tensioner
Have a look at the Fix Me Up calculator first.

All the best,

A velosolo spacer kit is your chainline friend!

Check out post #7 for a very neat way to get your chainline spot on:

http://forums.mtbr.com/singlespeed/why-does-happen-736137.html#post8417452

That's a smart method...like it

Just make sure of the rear hub/dropout width and halve it for the length of the 'skewer' indicator.
Should be OK if it's a MTB cassette conversion, but dedicated singlespeed hubs can be different.
It's not always 135mm, could be 120, 126, 130 or 135mm, or even bigger these days.

All the best,

True, James, it is the same thing really, but it's not easy to find the centre of the hubshell, or to measure from it avoiding the flanges and spokes. The method above is extra smart as it uses only one measurement and the dropout face as a fixed and firm reference.

I still prefer a bit of maths, or a straightedge myself

All the best,

I measure the front chain line by putting an engineers metal ruler pushed next to the seat-tube over the chain ring, read it off then add half of the seat-tube diameter. It's more precise and less fiddly as you don't need to guess where is the center of the seat-tube.

Then take the above number, subtract it from half of the rear axle OLN distance and you have the required rear matching chain-line measured from the center of rear sprocket to the RH axle / inside drop-out.

Taller sprocket teeth are far more important than a chain line within +/- 1mm.

Don't some folk like to make life difficult! A straight edge really does do the job!

If you have a straight edge long enough!!!