Setting the correct chainline - SS
- Thread starter GT-Steve
- Start date
Its not that difficult really, and nowhere near as many things to consider as when setting up geared systems.
If you are using a SS kit on a freehub, with the spacers that fit on the freehub, just shuffle them and the sprocket around to acheive the straightest chain with the chainwheel.
This is assuming a "magic gear" or verticle droupouts. If you have a tensioner, you might have to either adjust that to suite the position of the chain, or fiddle with the spacers a little more to get it lined up.
Chainwheel can be fitted either inside the cranks (middle ring) or outside (large ring) to get the best results
G
If you are using a SS kit on a freehub, with the spacers that fit on the freehub, just shuffle them and the sprocket around to acheive the straightest chain with the chainwheel.
This is assuming a "magic gear" or verticle droupouts. If you have a tensioner, you might have to either adjust that to suite the position of the chain, or fiddle with the spacers a little more to get it lined up.
Chainwheel can be fitted either inside the cranks (middle ring) or outside (large ring) to get the best results
G
xerxes":20qqo8e5 said:
I have the newer MkII and that's even better, it comes with the "not walking into things" app.
I must up-grade, although my broken little toe has fully healed from walking into the Bed a few months ago. havig the Mk2 will prevent further mishaps........
I run a long steel straightedge across the chainring and see how it lines up with the sprocket. Straighter the better, but don't worry about the odd few millimetres.
Actual chainline (relative to the centreline of the bike) makes very little difference.
There are too many combinations of chainring positions, chainlines, hub widths etc to be more definitive.
All the best,
Actual chainline (relative to the centreline of the bike) makes very little difference.
There are too many combinations of chainring positions, chainlines, hub widths etc to be more definitive.
All the best,
"I run a long steel straightedge across the chainring and see how it lines up with the sprocket. Straighter the better, but don't worry about the odd few millimetres."
Precisely so. I built/converted many fixeds, where chainline is more important than single free. Mount the ring as far inboard as bottom bracket/frame allow, then the straight edge to indicate ideal placing of sprocket (it's nearly always easier to fine tune the rear than the front). Even with fixed, +/- 5mm is OK.
Precisely so. I built/converted many fixeds, where chainline is more important than single free. Mount the ring as far inboard as bottom bracket/frame allow, then the straight edge to indicate ideal placing of sprocket (it's nearly always easier to fine tune the rear than the front). Even with fixed, +/- 5mm is OK.
