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PostPosted: Wed Sep 12, 2012 11:53 pm 
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Joined: Mon Jun 04, 2012 10:02 am
Posts: 441
Location: Australia
Ideally, you could run a 2x9 to keep all but the fastest cog

24-42 up front, 11-34 9 sp casette (see below)

The thing is - can the front mech handle an 18 tooth gap between gears?


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PostPosted: Thu Sep 13, 2012 12:08 am 
Moderator /Lincs, E & S Yorks Deputy AEC
Moderator /Lincs, E & S Yorks Deputy AEC
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Joined: Mon Nov 26, 2007 6:16 pm
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Location: RetroModding™ since 1988
I ran a 1x9 on the Marin Team Ti I had until recently, a 32t chainring & a 11-34t cassette

It worked on the majority of my rides and I didn't have any issues with losing a couple of higher & lower ratios.

I found that I could get up to almost 30mph spinning the cranks like buggery & if the lowest ratio wasn't enough to get up a hill walking was just as quick & gave me a chance to stretch a few muscles out a bit

But I was quite a bit fitter when I owned that bike...

So for my latest bike (the Yates) I went down the 2x9 route just to make life a little more comfortable on the bike

26/39t chainrings with an 11/32t cassette work well so far, but I do have a big test coming up soon for my gear ratio choices... eeek!

I also have a 3x10 set up on the Cube & a 3x9 set up on the Clockwork.

Depending on how I get on with the 2x9 Yates I may consider going 2x9 or 2x10 when the drivetrains wear out on the triple chainset equipped bikes I have (but the KHS will remain as it came out of the factory!)


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Sep 13, 2012 2:34 am 
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Joined: Mon Jun 04, 2012 10:02 am
Posts: 441
Location: Australia
might try running a 2x9 on the XCR

24-38 front and 11-32 rear

the terrains pretty hilly...

mechs should be able to handle a 14 tooth gap..


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Sep 14, 2012 8:02 am 
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Joined: Thu Sep 04, 2008 12:23 pm
Posts: 1224
Location: muddy, grimy yorkshire :D
I've been running 1x9 on my decade for a couple of years. 36t ring with 11-34 cassette. I commute to work on it and use it for xc / light trail centre use. I maybe miss the big ring on the odd occasion on road, but off road it's ace! I very recently converted it to 1x10, put a 38t ring on (time will tell) and have a standard 11-36 cassette.
As soon as I bought my remedy, I went 1x10. It's a bit heavier than the hardtail, so I've opted for a 35t ring with 11-36. I've done all sorts on that from dales epics up pen-y-ghent to downhilling on the Nevis range world cup track.
I think you need to decide if you're happy enough spinning out at a certain speed on the road and have legs to pedal up hills.... or not!


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PostPosted: Fri Sep 14, 2012 9:28 am 
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Joined: Fri Jan 12, 2007 1:32 pm
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Location: Staffordshire
Rob, what did you decide to do in the end?

I'm still a big fan of the simplicity of a single ring up front.


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PostPosted: Fri Sep 14, 2012 11:41 am 
Gold Trader
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Joined: Tue Oct 21, 2008 4:18 pm
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Been riding 2x9 for 4+ years and it does everything i need. No need for the granny ring... unless you live up a ruddy great hill of course :D


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 Post subject: 1 by 10
PostPosted: Sat Sep 15, 2012 5:35 pm 
Old School Grand Master
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Joined: Mon Jul 03, 2006 12:15 am
Posts: 3347
Location: Up north
1 by 10 makes sense to me! You have 10 very useable gears :wink:

Ive just done a week in Scotland towing a BOB trailer with mine and it was great.


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PostPosted: Fri Sep 21, 2012 12:25 am 
Retro Guru

Joined: Mon Jun 04, 2012 10:02 am
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Location: Australia
Has anyone else tried 1x10 or 1x9 ?

(Sorry for hijacking the thread :oops: )


Last edited by Blackstar on Sun Sep 23, 2012 3:59 am, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Fri Sep 21, 2012 2:26 pm 
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Joined: Tue Oct 19, 2010 9:55 am
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Location: The land of Lea & Perrins
I'm going to go with a 2 x 9 setup on my Schwinn. I'll keep the outer ring for now but it'll just be used as a bash guard if needs be.


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PostPosted: Sat Sep 22, 2012 1:11 am 
National & North West AEC
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Joined: Mon Nov 03, 2008 12:43 am
Posts: 8146
Location: Macclesfield Forest
I've been running a 1x9 set-up on my 'winter' mountain bike for the past couple of years.
An 11-34t cassette and a 34t stainless steel Surly chainring with a chainguide.
Despite living in the Peak District and regularly tackling 1 in 4 climbs I have rarely missed the lower gears. Granted I have got alot stronger and adapted quickly to this set-up.
I took another bike out recently which had a 3x9 set-up and found the steeper climbs more tiring when spinning up in the granny ring.
Something to do with the slower speed/longer duration and the increased leg movement I reckon.

Anyway, apart from increasing fitness, I have found the 1x9 set-up much quieter, lighter and more reliable than a triple up front. It's also quicker and easier to clean and maintain too. The slight compromise in gear range is more than made up for with simplicity and durability.

I've also been experimenting with 1x7, 1x8, 2x8 and 2x7 set-ups on various bikes. I'll probably switch to a low geared 2x9 if we get any snow this year.

Having worked on several 10 speed mountain bikes over the past few months, the common problem I have found with them is that they are much more affected by otherwise minor problems.
For example, even slightly sticky cables or a slightly bent mech hanger plays havoc with indexing. The sprockets are closer together so indexing has to be that much more precise.
I also think that 3x10 setups are pretty pointless. Sure you have a very wide overall ratio range but there are multiple gear replications and the closer step ratios mean that you're constantly changing gear anyway. The narrow chains also seem to wear out significantly faster than 9 speed alternatives.
Shadow mechs are also awful whether 9 or 10 speed.


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