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PostPosted: Fri Jul 20, 2012 8:34 pm 
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Nowadays the calipers are pretty much the same, yes.
What you tend to find is that most brakes when directly IS mounted will fit a 160mm disc as 'standard'. You then get different mounts (you bolt the caliper to the mount, and the mount to the frame) for different size discs, which essentially just move the caliper further out from the hub, to allow clearance for the larger discs.

Broadly speaking, the caliper will be the same, and at least on cable discs you won't have the hydro disc situation where swapping front/rear, left/right is much more complex to avoid getting air in the pipes!

I would suggest given the frame and the fact it's a HT and light :!: you could easily manage on a 160mm disc.

Not much in it between centrelock and 6-bolt, except that centrelock is one of those Shimano ideas, and you therefore need Shimano discs which are compatible with Shimano/Shimano-type hubs...... :roll:
You can get adapters to fit a 6-bolt disc to a centrelock hub, but it's just more weight & hassle..
Perhaps go for it if you manage to find a really cheap centrelock hub, but otherwise I personally would go for regular 6-bolt..


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PostPosted: Sat Jul 21, 2012 9:25 pm 
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Thanks for the info so far!

Another quick question - on forks with a lockout, in what position do they get locked out in? Where they are when you lock them out? At max extension? Is there any way to set the position? Does anyone know?

Cheers, Andy


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PostPosted: Sat Jul 21, 2012 9:37 pm 
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Usually they sink into travel and lock.

Your other questions are specifc to the fork. (google)


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PostPosted: Tue Jul 24, 2012 1:13 pm 
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foz wrote:
Thanks for the info so far!

Another quick question - on forks with a lockout, in what position do they get locked out in? Where they are when you lock them out? At max extension? Is there any way to set the position? Does anyone know?

Cheers, Andy


It depends on the fork! Most Rockshox lock out at the top of the travel, but will still compress 1-2" for safety (so you don't blow the air cartridges!), same with Maguras.
I also run a pair of RST's which fully lock at the top - no compression; or they can be progressively locked for increasing amounts of travel all the way up to full, but always from the top down, rather than bottom up.
So they will only travel 30mm, but from 130-120 extension, or 100mm from 130 to 30mm, or lock at 130 (for example).

Pace used to be the same as Rockshox, but now they are all DT Swiss they have a new system found on (I think) the RC41 before Pace's fork business was bought out by DT Swiss call 'Launch Control' which just means that the travel gets locked at the top, with 1-2" movement.
The diff with DT Swiss is that they will completely unlock if you hit a large bump/drop - again to save the air cartridge. Apparently DT Swiss are very flexy though..

Fox use a similar system to Launch Control called TALAS, except this is a combination of the RST and DT Swiss ideas, progressively lockable travel, with the sudden unlock if you hit a big bump.

The other thing to consider is whether you are getting lockout only (a huge number of cheaper air forks, e.g Suntour have this) or whether you get lockout, rebound and compression adjustment, or any combination of the three!
I don't know about Marzocchi or Manitou these days, but I haven't heard many good things about Manitou especially..

I have a pair of cheap Suntours on my hack bike, RST's, Pace, Maguras and RockShox SID's.. :oops:

Assuming you want light weight, I'd look to Fox/Rock Shox, or even consider RST and X-Fusion if value for money is your priority. I run an X-Fusion rear shock on my Ghost, and it's brilliant!


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PostPosted: Tue Jul 24, 2012 2:12 pm 
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Thanks, I've got an RS Reba RL on the way to me, so I guess I'll find out in a few days!

cheers, Andy


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PostPosted: Tue Jul 24, 2012 3:05 pm 
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The RL locks out in the extended position, but does indeed allow for a bit of movement on the heavy bumps.

That being said, you can flip the lockout on when it's compressed. It'll still extend when you take your weight off it, but then it'll stay in the extended position.


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PostPosted: Fri Jul 27, 2012 2:05 pm 
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My forks have arrived! but they're still in the box and I'll have to wait to unpack them.

I've been to the LBS this morning, to check out wheels, hubs, and other bits. Turns out that I can get a ready built wheel set for less money than hubs and spokes alone (but not much less). So my options for wheels are:

1. use my existing mavic 217 sunset rims, and buy some 2013 SLX hubs and new spokes

2. buy a full set of wheels - Shimano 525 hubs on mavic 117 rims

I'm leaning towards the SLX/sunset option, but does anyone have any compelling reasons to get the full wheelset?

And I just dug my hope headset out, to find that the aluminium part of the crown race is cracked... is this a major problem? is it rideable? the actual race where the rollers run is fine, it's just the alloy part that's cracked. Can I use it?

thanks, Andy


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PostPosted: Fri Aug 17, 2012 10:43 am 
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Hi!

Did you get the new wheels in the end or just stick with the originals?

I'm interested to see how you got on with the forks? I need a new set for a '97 bike, so need short travel and short lower length and am looking to Magura, but interested to see how the Rebas perform!


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PostPosted: Fri Aug 17, 2012 10:54 am 
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Post a picture of the cracked part?
I recently bought a new crown race fro my old style hope headset as the old one could be taken off by hand. I was pleased to find the new old style ones are now split and somewhat lighter.


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PostPosted: Fri Aug 17, 2012 11:49 am 
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I'm nowhere near building the bike up yet, it's a long term project :(

I've got some hubs on the way, an XT non disc rear and a bontrager disc front (both found on RB :D ), and will be lacing those to my 217 sunset rims. Not sure on spoke colour yet, probably black if I can stretch to the difference in price over silver.

The forks are still in the box, I need to check i have all the tools, oil, etc before changing the travel on them. They certainly look very nice though - forks have come a long way since my previous 1995 judy XCs !

cyfa, there's a pic of the cracked crown race here http://www.retrobike.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.php?t=213358

It's only the alloy part that is cracked, not the actual steel race. This is for a hope enduro from about 2003, the version with needle bearings and not sealed units. The newer crown races aren't compatible, as they aren't really a race, just a cup for the sealed bearing to sit in. I'm going to go ahead and use it though. if it does fail, then I can always buy just the bottom half of a hope headset as they sell them separately now anyway (but only in black :evil: ), and it won't cost me any more than buying a complete headset from FSA or similar.

and just to throw another question out - what's the difference between the shimano deore M590 cranks and higher level SLX and XT stuff? I guess they're heavier, and think they're not hollow forged. But they seem a great crank for the price, and actually look pretty decent too (I've just seen a few sets down at my local decathlon, the deores are much much nicer than sram and truvative stuff at the same price level)

cheers, Andy


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