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PostPosted: Wed Jul 18, 2012 12:39 pm 
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I hope this is not a daft comment, but could i use a shimano 105 rear mech on my mtb with 7 speed gripshift :oops: :?

Just whilst going through the parts-bin whilst building my pub hack i found a dented but usable 105 rear mech lurking in there :D


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PostPosted: Wed Jul 18, 2012 12:47 pm 
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yes you can, but it will depend on the cassette and chainring ratios. I'm using an RX100 short cage road mech on my MTB with 7s deore thumbies, a single 36t front ring and a road 13-23 7s cassette. works perfectly. I haven't tried it with a larger ratio cassette or more chainrings though, it might work with some combinations but almost certainly not with something 'normal' like 46/36/26 rings and a 13-28 cassette.

try it and see!


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PostPosted: Wed Jul 18, 2012 12:51 pm 
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foz wrote:
yes you can, but it will depend on the cassette and chainring ratios. I'm using an RX100 short cage road mech on my MTB with 7s deore thumbies, a single 36t front ring and a road 13-23 7s cassette. works perfectly. I haven't tried it with a larger ratio cassette or more chainrings though, it might work with some combinations but almost certainly not with something 'normal' like 46/36/26 rings and a 13-28 cassette.

try it and see!


Ill give it a go, i never even thought about it before :D


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PostPosted: Wed Jul 18, 2012 3:21 pm 
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Mavic XM819 rims and also I think Mavic Cross (Rides/Max) wheels can be had as V compatable rims which are also UST tyre compatable.
Tubeless is a good thing. :)
One thing to watch is that you can't mix and match at all with 10 speed. Both Shimano and SRAM changed the pull ratio's again so 10 speed shifters / mechs will not work with 8/9 speed counterparts even from the same manufacturer. Of course Shimano and SRAM don't talk to each other either even if both are 10 speed systems.
"Shadow" mechs are low profile cage and have different cable routing to allow for better clearance and a stiffer return spring to control the chain tension better. They are also lighter. "Shadow Plus" is the new thing where a switch on the mech allows an even higher spring tension and friction stabalizer to reduce chainslap further - this is also a good thing.
SRAM I feel are more industrial but work better when things get mucky. I've changed from XTR (9) to X-0 (10) and have to say I'm sold on the 10 speed setup.
I-spec is a combined shifter/lever mount and handy to tidy up the cockpit area - SRAM use a similar thing called Matchmaker. It is of course only compatable with itself in both cases.
Chainwise my vote goes to KMC. You can get an X10SL chain which is lighter than any of the Shimano / SRAM ones and just a durable in my experience for under £30. Comes with the powerlink too.
+1 for Rebas here too. Very good solid but suprisingly light forks. There are U-turn models which can very easily be dialled in from 85-115mm travel using a simple adjuster on the top of the leg.


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PostPosted: Wed Jul 18, 2012 5:59 pm 
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Another vote for Sram from me....I always use X9 and really like it, it feels more definite when you shift and deals with muck and gloop better. I'd go 10 speed to future proof things; both Sram and Shimano seem to be pushing it big time.

It's worth looking at the likes of Rose Bikes and Bike Discount.de as both are very cheap for parts. It works out even better for a big order. My Saint bb was £16....that's less than shops get them for trade here.

I'd also get disc hubs, especially if you get some nice Hope wheels. It'll make them easier to sell as well as future proofing them should you ever want discs.

Can't comment on forks really as I haven't had a pair of forks with less than 100mm for as long as I can remember.


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PostPosted: Wed Jul 18, 2012 8:22 pm 
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My two pennys- I ventured into the world of modern bikes recently. Press fit BB is a doddle and I like the slidey through crank thing, you need a new special tool to tighten them before the pinch bolts. Most things seem to come with torque figures these days which is a bonus for the ham fisted. Gedore make nice torque wrenches and Tacx do a good carbon assembly paste if you are playing that game. Disc brakes - I have played with the new XT ones and shortened the line which was easy. Simple to set up and very powerful. I have used SRAM 9 speed shifters and mechs - very positive with strong springs. Shimano is nice - bit of a lighter feel although the new 10 speed XTR while functional look and feel a bit plasticky - nothing like the quality of M900 or 910. Rear mechs - XTR shadow plus is superb. Silent and no chain slap- not a single mark on the chainstay protector. This technology is going into the other groups soon at a far better price and SRAM will be releasing their own version. SRAM 10 speed chains have a quick link but it is only supposed to be used once unlike their 8 / 9 speed ones. You will need a pair of pliers to split it. Park make some or you can butcher an old pair of crimp pliers or the like to fit. Some say you can re- use them, depends if you want to risk it.
Hope some of this is of use - just my limited experiences and good luck with the build.


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PostPosted: Thu Jul 19, 2012 10:48 am 
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Joined: Tue Oct 09, 2007 1:55 pm
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Osella wrote:
5-bolt chainrings are hard to find(!) ever since Shimano switched to 4-bolt..


Stronglight, TA, Middleburn, BlackSpire and RaceFace all still make 5-bolt rings.

They also make them out of metal, unlike the silvery cheese of Shimano rings. :lol:


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PostPosted: Thu Jul 19, 2012 11:17 am 
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While researching forks a bit, I've realised that most 'decent' forks are for disc brakes only. My frame doesn't have disc mounts, so I might have to use a disc on the front and Vs on the back (which isn't really a problem, except that I already have a full set of Vs and levers, and don't want to get a disc if I don't have to). That said, if I have to get a disc, then do mechanical discs use the same cable pull as V brake levers? A mechanical disc (avid BB7 ?) would be much cheaper than a full hydraulic system, and that way I'd still have a matching pair of brake levers (A non-matching pair would be OK, if the lever shape and size was the same though).

So, are mechanical discs worth it? I know they won't be as good as a hydraulic set, but since I've only ever used Vs (and cantis) then I don't know what I'm missing :)

Thanks!


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PostPosted: Thu Jul 19, 2012 11:24 am 
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foz wrote:
...... do mechanical discs use the same cable pull as V brake levers? .

Yep
foz wrote:
So, are mechanical discs worth it?

Yep, well set up, decent cable discs are marginal compared to hydro's


G


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PostPosted: Thu Jul 19, 2012 12:04 pm 
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foz wrote:
While researching forks a bit, I've realised that most 'decent' forks are for disc brakes only.


That's why the suggestion was made to look for a second-hand Reba. The 2005-2008 version is nearly the same as the new ones, but came with canti mounts.

That being said, you can indeed run a cable-operated disc at the front.

You could also get an adapter for the frame, which anables you to run a disc at the rear as well.
This is the Onza disk brake adapter, for example. It slots around the axle and uses the left canti mount for the torque arm.

Image


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