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PostPosted: Wed Feb 22, 2012 2:18 am 
Retro Guru
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Joined: Thu Jun 23, 2011 11:25 pm
Posts: 1785
Location: It's not easy being a dolphin.
Avid BB7 calipers, RT-79 rotors, Mavic Crossrides. Just needs a small modification on the disk pads but it all works very well for XC use.

My advice would be:
- Nothing wrong with Centerlock; Shimano hub and Shimano rotor will more than likely work fine for the obvious reason. Grease contact and torque up similar to a cassette.
- Caliper choice and position needs to be studied. Check that the pads make full contact with the rotor track.

I've tried 6 bolts, and of course it works fine but the centerlock system intuitively makes sense. Now, 6 bolt adapters on centerlock seems retarded since another interface is involved along with associated tolerance mis-haps; but I have heard DT Swiss adapters are one of the best. Mavic ones sucked with Avid rotors.

PS: BTW I eat like a pig, drink like a fish and wildly oscillate between 80 and 95 Kg over three year re-occuring cycles. I'm using 160mm rotors and I'm not going down the alps cos I don't live there.


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PostPosted: Wed Feb 22, 2012 11:46 am 
retrobike rider
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Joined: Sun Sep 23, 2007 11:22 pm
Posts: 7305
Location: Hove
Thanks for all the wisdom. I'm getting a picture that 160mm should be enough for me and maybe that it's just that Shimano brakes are a bit mundane that causes centrelock to be quite cheap on eBay?

Nobody reports any problem with the older solid steel rotors like the RT-78, but has anybody else found the same problem as Russell with the aluminium spider type? Is the newer type a lot better for heat dissipation?


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Shimano XT RT-79 160mm centrelock rotor.jpg
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PostPosted: Wed Feb 22, 2012 12:49 pm 
Retro Guru
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Joined: Tue Aug 07, 2007 12:22 pm
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Location: Platsa, Messinias, Greece
Anthony wrote:

Nobody reports any problem with the older solid steel rotors like the RT-78, but has anybody else found the same problem as Russell with the aluminium spider type? Is the newer type a lot better for heat dissipation?


I've noticed it on my friend's bikes - it'd never be an issue when riding though, only when you rock the bike to and fro with the brake on. I don't think that it's wear, more manufacturing tolerances.


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PostPosted: Wed Feb 22, 2012 3:15 pm 
Gold Trader
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Joined: Wed Jun 20, 2007 11:19 pm
Posts: 7006
Location: Odense, Denmark
Russell wrote:
I serviced a bike last week with a 'knock' at the front end.

Play in the headset? Nope.

Suspension fork bushes buggered? Nope.

**Scratches head**

Disc caliper bolts loose? Nope.

**has a cup of tea**

Shimano Centrelock rotors, play between rotor and 'spider' where the rivets have worn? That'll be it then!

Rubbish.


Saw this quite a lot on rotors around 2007/8. They covered it as warranty.


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PostPosted: Thu Feb 23, 2012 9:34 am 
retrobike rider
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Joined: Sun Sep 23, 2007 11:22 pm
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Location: Hove
Getting a bit anal here perhaps, but someone has offered me an RT77 rotor and lock ring. Shimano drawings show a washer as well as the lock ring, but he has no washer. Is the washer essential to keep things tight, quiet etc?

Incidentally, this is why I have to get into discs. I had a tragedy with my (I think fairly rare) raw-coloured 2003 SID.


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2003 Rockshox SID Raw broken bit.JPG
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PostPosted: Thu Feb 23, 2012 5:14 pm 
Old School Grand Master
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Joined: Fri May 01, 2009 7:11 pm
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Location: Fircombe.
Is it not the same flexi washer as on a cassette lockring?


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PostPosted: Thu Feb 23, 2012 8:58 pm 
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Joined: Thu Jun 23, 2011 11:25 pm
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Location: It's not easy being a dolphin.
Yes. Nowt special; it's just to "help" bind some teeth on the knurled surfaces. I don't think it's a big issue if it's not there.


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