Sliding dropout err sliding.

cyfa2809

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So my betd hanger got thread stripped on my kona cowan ds. I got a new hanger just a normal kona one and have had trouble with it sliding since. I have put in longer tug nuts but they dont reach (well the drive side doesnt!) and have also changed the washers to anti shake ones ('corrugated') yet it still slips.

This is no good as i throw my bike around like no ones business and have heard the chain want to come off a couple times.
It doesnt help with teh fact that i like to 'power wheelie'.

Any suggestions?
 
Even longer tugnuts. You might have to make some. Get some M5 threaded bar and simply weld a washer on one end. Easy peasy.
 
jamabikes":3b8lk4cy said:
surely you just tighten the drop outs to the frame? no need for tugnuts on sliding drop outs is there?

Both of the bike I own with sliding dropouts need tugnuts. The wheel just pulls to one side without them.
 
only one i've had, a voodoo, was fine. it had two bolts that clamp the sliding vertical dropout in position
 
jamabikes":18urjq58 said:
only one i've had, a voodoo, was fine. it had two bolts that clamp the sliding vertical dropout in position


That's not the issue here. The wheel is slipping in the drop out, not the dropout slipping in the frame.
 
jamabikes":28h5au02 said:
sorry thought the cowan had vertical drop outs that were separate to the frame and slid to set tension

It has - and it has two set screws which are used to adjust tension and also to stop the dropput from sliding forwards.
No tugnuts though.....
 
Argh ok not enough info here!

Yes they are vertical and have 2 bolts. Also they have a 'tugnut/bolt' that goes through a flange to set tension.

It is the dropout sliding in the frame although the chain is slightly slack as the dropouts are right back due to my 36x16 ratio. ONly just not enough to be able to take a link out. Considering a different size cog but that would be a 17 or a 15 and im not sure that it would stop the problem.

The tension screws are m4 so a longer one seems to bend quite easily but in hindsight this could be due to the dropout being as far back as it will go.
 
Fit a half-link so you can move the wheel further forwards - then the adjusters won't need to be so long and will be less inclined to bend and you can then get proper chain tension too.
Also a couple of M4 cap head machine screws are probably stronger than what's already fitted.
 
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