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PostPosted: Wed Jan 18, 2012 1:15 pm 
Gold Trader / Special
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Joined: Wed Aug 27, 2008 3:48 pm
Posts: 3169
Location: Leicestershire
jax13 wrote:
do you need specific rims / tyres to go tubeless?


both yes and no.

proper tubeless setups have rims with no nipple holes and tyres with a slightly thicker side wall.

nothing stopping you running a ghetto tubeless setup though.
just get a 20" tube put a bit of air in it and stretch it around the rim, cut it down the middle and fold each edge over the sides of the rim.
then follow the instructions for regular tubeless, and trim back the excess inner tube.
job done.

i'm not using specific UST tyres on either setup, but i'm not running them at low pressures.


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PostPosted: Wed Jan 18, 2012 4:21 pm 
Retro Guru
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Joined: Mon Jun 14, 2010 11:27 pm
Posts: 1421
Location: mid cheshire
Khane wrote:
jax13 wrote:
do you need specific rims / tyres to go tubeless?


both yes and no.

proper tubeless setups have rims with no nipple holes and tyres with a slightly thicker side wall.

nothing stopping you running a ghetto tubeless setup though.
just get a 20" tube put a bit of air in it and stretch it around the rim, cut it down the middle and fold each edge over the sides of the rim.
then follow the instructions for regular tubeless, and trim back the excess inner tube.
job done.

i'm not using specific UST tyres on either setup, but i'm not running them at low pressures.


so, at the risk of sounding like a complete donut... i stretch a 20" tube around the rim putting the 20" valve through the valve hole rather than using a self sealing valve unit.

i then stick a scalpel through the outermost layer of tube & peel it like a banana, put each edge over the rim, fit the tyre inside then inflate & trim back.

so far so good, next question, what benefit does this have over the £45 / £50 stans's conversion kit (aside from cost) and finally, can i still bung a tube of stans inside to puncture proof the tyres?

edit: youtube is a wonderful thing! looks like i'll be giving this a crack at some point in the not too distant future. are there any drawbacks to doing this on rim barke rims as opposed to disc? (does the braking force acting on the rim affect it?)


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PostPosted: Wed Jan 18, 2012 6:49 pm 
Gold Trader / Special
Gold Trader / Special
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Joined: Wed Aug 27, 2008 3:48 pm
Posts: 3169
Location: Leicestershire
jax13 wrote:
Khane wrote:
jax13 wrote:
do you need specific rims / tyres to go tubeless?


both yes and no.

proper tubeless setups have rims with no nipple holes and tyres with a slightly thicker side wall.

nothing stopping you running a ghetto tubeless setup though.
just get a 20" tube put a bit of air in it and stretch it around the rim, cut it down the middle and fold each edge over the sides of the rim.
then follow the instructions for regular tubeless, and trim back the excess inner tube.
job done.

i'm not using specific UST tyres on either setup, but i'm not running them at low pressures.


so, at the risk of sounding like a complete donut... i stretch a 20" tube around the rim putting the 20" valve through the valve hole rather than using a self sealing valve unit.

i then stick a scalpel through the outermost layer of tube & peel it like a banana, put each edge over the rim, fit the tyre inside then inflate & trim back.

so far so good, next question, what benefit does this have over the £45 / £50 stans's conversion kit (aside from cost) and finally, can i still bung a tube of stans inside to puncture proof the tyres?

edit: youtube is a wonderful thing! looks like i'll be giving this a crack at some point in the not too distant future. are there any drawbacks to doing this on rim barke rims as opposed to disc? (does the braking force acting on the rim affect it?)


no real merit to the ghetto tubeless other than cost. well i suppose if you decide to go back to tubes there will be less clean up just cut the inner tube and bin it.
yes sealant is a must which ever method of tubeless is being run.
you can run tubeless wthout sealant, but i don't think you get the puncture protection without.


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PostPosted: Wed Jan 18, 2012 8:07 pm 
Old School Hero

Joined: Wed Dec 14, 2011 9:57 am
Posts: 183
Shelling out for the Stan's conversion is the best way in my experience. Yeah, it costs about £40 but it's so easy. You don't even need tubeless rims or tyres.


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PostPosted: Wed Jan 18, 2012 8:37 pm 
Retro Guru

Joined: Sat Aug 20, 2011 5:14 pm
Posts: 341
Location: Newcastle
cyfa2809 wrote:
S-M wrote:
I ghetto converted my FSR at the weekend, going to do my Boardman next weekend.


How did it go?


Fine!

Little trouble to get the beads sealed up, but i used my compressor and it all went together spot on, tyre is still up 4 days later = success. :lol:


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PostPosted: Wed Jan 18, 2012 8:46 pm 
Retro Guru
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Joined: Tue Aug 07, 2007 12:22 pm
Posts: 2942
Location: Platsa, Messinias, Greece
jax13 wrote:

are there any drawbacks to doing this on rim barke rims as opposed to disc? (does the braking force acting on the rim affect it?)


No, none that I've found. I've used Michelin XC Dry 2 on Mavic 717 and Nobby Nics and Kenda Nevegal on Mavic 261 (all ghetto) with no problems.
All seated with a track pump.
The sidewalls on the Nevegals were a bit porous at first but after a bit of shaking they sealed up ok - the Michelins are a dream to use tubeless, as are the tubeless-ready NN's.


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