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Tubeless!
http://www.retrobike.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.php?f=41&t=182811

Author:  v12jat [ Tue Jan 17, 2012 12:25 pm ]
Post subject:  Tubeless!

Thinking of going for a tubeless set up on my scott scale, maybe on my trek as well if it proves successful!!!! 1 for weight saving, 2 as I get a puncture every time I open my garage pretty much at the moment

I'm sure I'm not the first person on this site who's asked but..

Thing is, there are a few kits out there and of course the ghetto set up!

Seen the stan's kit, and the Joe's kit too, any one used the joes one and is it as good as Stan's?

Also anyone use the ghetto method, seen it done on YouTube where someone uses electrical tape stans sealant and valve and no bmx inner tube. Anyone tried it this way and if so how successful were u?!

Cheers!!

Author:  suburbanreuben [ Tue Jan 17, 2012 12:54 pm ]
Post subject: 

It's well worth doing. I was sceptical, to say the least, but I wouldn't go back to tubes willingly!
The best method in my opinion is to use Stans yellow tape, Stans valves and Stans jizz. Nothing else needed.
You're talking £10 for the tape (enough to do 5 wheels) £15 for two valves, and a tenner for enough goo to do a fair few wheels.
Don't try to use gaffer tape; It will leak!
Most tyres will work, but I wouldn't wanmt to use anything too thin or light. My tubeless ready Bontys weigh about 500gms, which is as light as I would recommend here in the nancy south.

Author:  amedias [ Tue Jan 17, 2012 1:14 pm ]
Post subject: 

or... for even cheaper alternative (been working fine for me for about 4 years over ~12 wheels)

Any decent rim...

+ Electrical insulating tape, wrap 2-3 times and do it carefully, avoiding air pockets and bad edges.

+ Cut the valves out of old punctured innertube, poke through the tape and then lock down tight using the valve lockring, then, use a 2nd valve lockring to butt up against the first to make sure it doesn't undo.

seat one side of tyre, add sealant, seat other side, inflate, do the tubeless slosh shuffle, ride, enjoy :-)

I'd use tubeless or tubeless ready tyres only really, otherwise you may meet with limited success on sealing. +1 for Bonty tubless tyres, they're ace and seal first time everytime for me.

This way you only have to pay for sealant, I've used Stans yellow tape and stuff before, but found a few wraps of insulating tape works fine...

Rims I've done this on so far:

mavic x517
mavic 117
mavic x317
mavic 321
mavic EN521
mavic 325
Sunn MTX
Sunn Singletrack (sun rims have some funny holes drilled in the rim you need to be careful to cover)
Spinergy Spox rims...whatever they actually are.

Author:  kingroon [ Tue Jan 17, 2012 1:31 pm ]
Post subject: 

I stand by Tubeless [more specifically the UST standard] as one of the single greatest advancement in MTB tech.. In the 10 years I've been rolling UST, I cannot honestly remember getting a puncture..

If you wanna go UST, there are a set of rims going on Ebay right now:

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll? ... 0678980286

..and I'll sell you a Used Once set of UST Hutchinson Scorpions for £40 posted:

http://farm7.staticflickr.com/6165/6252 ... 9a_b_d.jpg

8)

Author:  v12jat [ Wed Jan 18, 2012 8:34 pm ]
Post subject: 

Thanks for the advice! And the offer of the tyres, might come back to u if my own are proving troublesome!

After yet another puncture this morning I saw my arse and went to the LBS, picked up a large bottle of stans sealant!

Wrapped the inside of the rim (mavic x317) in 3 layers of high quality electrical tape and used the old valve with a double lock ring for added security!

Managed to get the front (conti mountain king 2 2.2 wire bead) inflated and seated the bead using a track pump, deflated and put some fluid in the valve. It's now sealed in the garage and holding about 60 psi!!!

Followed the same procedure on the back which was going well until a small cut in the sidewall started firing sealant all over my garage!!! Shook it a bit and it stopped when the pressure dropped, but when I topped it up again, the cut opened and sealant everywhere again!!

Will this seal up!? It's only a very small split - certainly smaller than the ones Stan himself does in the demo video! so hoping it will if I leave it overnight!

Author:  Andy R [ Wed Jan 18, 2012 8:51 pm ]
Post subject: 

v12jat wrote:

Managed to get the front (conti mountain king 2 2.2 wire bead) inflated and seated the bead using a track pump, deflated and put some fluid in the valve. It's now sealed in the garage and holding about 60 psi!!!



I don't think that I'd be putting that much pressure in a tubeless tyre (and why would you want to?)
I thought that the maximum recommendation was 40psi/3 bar.

Author:  v12jat [ Wed Jan 18, 2012 9:12 pm ]
Post subject: 

Not gonna ride it with that much psi in there!!!

Just did it to make sure it's seated properly.

Author:  kingroon [ Wed Jan 18, 2012 10:27 pm ]
Post subject: 

v12jat wrote:
Will this seal up!? It's only a very small split - certainly smaller than the ones Stan himself does in the demo video! so hoping it will if I leave it overnight!


Whether it holds or not, I wouldn't ride it.. Trust factor is totally gone, it could tear open mid berm :shock:

Author:  amedias [ Wed Jan 18, 2012 11:00 pm ]
Post subject: 

for small cuts like that you can normally do something....

Decent rubber patches on the inside of the tire using proper vulcanising glue will normally be all you need, but if the split is a bit bigger and a clean slice rather than a raggy tear then you can stitch the sides back together using dental floss and then patch on the inside.

I've got a conti Vertical that had an annoying little cut, only about 3-4mm long right by the bead and it just wouldn't seal with sealant alone, stitched and patched and ran fine until the tire wore out.

Author:  v12jat [ Fri Jan 20, 2012 6:50 pm ]
Post subject: 

turns out the little cut wasnt so bad after all! more like a few small holes in close proximity to eachother!

patched it anyway last night, just been on a 31 mile ride in the p*ssing rain and its not missed a beat! very impresseive indeed! i am going to give my trek the same treatment for sure!!!

the bike definately feels lighter, and faster as a result....

:D

Author:  S-M [ Sat Jan 21, 2012 11:12 pm ]
Post subject: 

Just mounted up two sets of Conti Mountain Kings (mkII) today, one SET ON A Mavix 317 set of wheels and the other on my home built Superstar XC-430 jobbies.

Both sets mounted up spot on, although all tyres were brand new.

Has anybody used the Specialized Air Lock sealant?

It has been in a 50% off sale in the Edinburgh Coop bike sale so i picked a few bottles up.

I did a test run (ghetto) with a spare cheap tyre and while it held its pressure fine, when i removed it today to check, the sealant had not spread around the inside of the tyre, almost like it was a bit too thick and gloopy?

The tyres i did today, i have added a small amount of water to each one to thin down the solution, not sure if that is a good thing, or a bad thing.

Author:  v12jat [ Sun Jan 22, 2012 8:44 pm ]
Post subject: 

anyone done these on a mavic crossride trying to mount a MKII tyre, but the pressure from a track pump wont work, even 2 co2 canisters wont inflate the bugger!

am i best off with a compressor in this instance?!?

can take to work (car dealership) tomorrow if so...

Author:  S-M [ Sun Jan 22, 2012 10:59 pm ]
Post subject: 

I have tried with a track pump and got nowhere.

I can get them beaded up no problems with my 50litre compressor.

Author:  v12jat [ Mon Jan 23, 2012 9:24 pm ]
Post subject: 

Managed to sort it out! Problem was the valve I was using had no removable core, so it wouldnt inflate. I changed for one out of a schwalbe inner tube and it's sorted!

The compressor in our workshop blew it up within milliseconds!!

Image

Author:  02gf74 [ Tue Jan 24, 2012 12:37 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: Tubeless!

v12jat wrote:
Thinking of going for a tubeless set up on my scott scale, maybe on my trek as well if it proves successful!!!! 1 for weight saving, 2 as I get a puncture every time I open my garage pretty much at the moment



re: weight saving. On my WW bikes, I use Maxxis tubes = sub 90g. From the info about Stans, my calculation is that the liquid weighs in at 60 g plus approx 10g for the core; so the weight saved is 20 g.

So worth doing as it is rotating mass and is furthest point from centre of rotation .... but what is stopping me is what happens should the try go down and need a spare inner. Firstly there is the mess insuide the tyre when having to fit an inner and then trhere is having to carry two inner tubes to be on the safe side - I usually carry only one plus repair kit.

Maybe the Stans stuff is so good that there is hardly ever a puncture and UI am worrying too much :?

the other advantage is being able to run lower pressure = more grip due to larger tyre contact patch plus lower rolling resistance (I did have tubeless set up but cannot say I notice much difference on that one)

Author:  d00m [ Tue Jan 24, 2012 4:05 pm ]
Post subject: 

I had a 2mm hole near the bead on the weekend. With a lot of shaking the sealant managed to plug the hole. The most difficult part was reseating the bead, which involved lots of pulling and rapid inflating.

The question is now, do I leave alone, or do I stick a patch inside?

Author:  v12jat [ Thu Jan 26, 2012 2:16 pm ]
Post subject: 

I'd patch if it was a decent sized hole, as this could open!

Been waiting for another tyre to arrive so i can do the rear on my Trek, this is another mavic Crossride.

Unfortunately the valve i was using wasnt holding much pressure in, so, i have gone for a stans rim strip as the rubber around the valve should create more of a seal.

ps. anyone ran a tubeless setup on a retro ride ie. pre 95?! or would the rims/ older skinwall tyres not be up to the job?

Author:  Andy R [ Thu Jan 26, 2012 5:56 pm ]
Post subject: 

v12jat wrote:
ps. anyone ran a tubeless setup on a retro ride ie. pre 95?! or would the rims/ older skinwall tyres not be up to the job?


Yes, on my 1988 Explosif but not with old school tyres though.
2.25" Nobby Nics on Mavic 261 rims, ghetto tubeless. Works like a dream.

At the minute though I have Trailrakers on it , which aren't good tubeless candidates, unfortunately.

Author:  saltyman [ Thu Apr 12, 2012 5:20 pm ]
Post subject:  stans sealant advice

im after a good quallity sealant for the fatbike, but with the bike having 100mm wide rims and 4.7'' tires im wary of going tubeless.

so, i have looked around on youtube and seen a few of these videos...

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=veB-MHb9B-k

can i simply uncsrew the presta valve, inject a load of sealant in and im sorted??????

Author:  wynne [ Thu Apr 12, 2012 5:54 pm ]
Post subject: 

Been tubeless on my cross, road and mountain bikes for a few years. I would not go back to either tubes or tubs.

There are a few things I'd add. Buy the reinforced cross weave tape. Better than insulating tape and much cheaper than stans. Avoid the geox sealant - it goes solid and clogs valves.

If you can stretch to it it's well worth while building up some stans rims. I believe there is a new range of stans imminent so that should mean some good deals on current stuff.

Also tubeless specific tyres tend to be reinforced so you're much less likely to get catastrophic tyre failure.

Author:  saltyman [ Thu Apr 12, 2012 5:59 pm ]
Post subject: 

what i planned to do is unscrew the presta valve, inject via a syringe the tire sealant directly into the tube then inflate?

just the tires are so big even on a 26x100mm rim they would take some effort using the tubeless method.

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