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 Post subject: Tubeless!
PostPosted: Tue Jan 17, 2012 12:25 pm 
Gold Trader
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Joined: Tue Feb 16, 2010 7:39 pm
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Location: Rossendale, Lancs
Thinking of going for a tubeless set up on my scott scale, maybe on my trek as well if it proves successful!!!! 1 for weight saving, 2 as I get a puncture every time I open my garage pretty much at the moment

I'm sure I'm not the first person on this site who's asked but..

Thing is, there are a few kits out there and of course the ghetto set up!

Seen the stan's kit, and the Joe's kit too, any one used the joes one and is it as good as Stan's?

Also anyone use the ghetto method, seen it done on YouTube where someone uses electrical tape stans sealant and valve and no bmx inner tube. Anyone tried it this way and if so how successful were u?!

Cheers!!


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Jan 17, 2012 12:54 pm 
Old School Grand Master
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Joined: Fri May 01, 2009 7:11 pm
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Location: Fircombe.
It's well worth doing. I was sceptical, to say the least, but I wouldn't go back to tubes willingly!
The best method in my opinion is to use Stans yellow tape, Stans valves and Stans jizz. Nothing else needed.
You're talking £10 for the tape (enough to do 5 wheels) £15 for two valves, and a tenner for enough goo to do a fair few wheels.
Don't try to use gaffer tape; It will leak!
Most tyres will work, but I wouldn't wanmt to use anything too thin or light. My tubeless ready Bontys weigh about 500gms, which is as light as I would recommend here in the nancy south.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Jan 17, 2012 1:14 pm 
Retro Guru

Joined: Sat Apr 11, 2009 4:27 pm
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Location: Devon
or... for even cheaper alternative (been working fine for me for about 4 years over ~12 wheels)

Any decent rim...

+ Electrical insulating tape, wrap 2-3 times and do it carefully, avoiding air pockets and bad edges.

+ Cut the valves out of old punctured innertube, poke through the tape and then lock down tight using the valve lockring, then, use a 2nd valve lockring to butt up against the first to make sure it doesn't undo.

seat one side of tyre, add sealant, seat other side, inflate, do the tubeless slosh shuffle, ride, enjoy :-)

I'd use tubeless or tubeless ready tyres only really, otherwise you may meet with limited success on sealing. +1 for Bonty tubless tyres, they're ace and seal first time everytime for me.

This way you only have to pay for sealant, I've used Stans yellow tape and stuff before, but found a few wraps of insulating tape works fine...

Rims I've done this on so far:

mavic x517
mavic 117
mavic x317
mavic 321
mavic EN521
mavic 325
Sunn MTX
Sunn Singletrack (sun rims have some funny holes drilled in the rim you need to be careful to cover)
Spinergy Spox rims...whatever they actually are.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Jan 17, 2012 1:31 pm 
98+ BoTM | BoTM | Gold | Rider
98+ BoTM | BoTM | Gold | Rider
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Joined: Thu Mar 23, 2006 12:48 am
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Location: Kingdom of Ringlé
I stand by Tubeless [more specifically the UST standard] as one of the single greatest advancement in MTB tech.. In the 10 years I've been rolling UST, I cannot honestly remember getting a puncture..

If you wanna go UST, there are a set of rims going on Ebay right now:

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll? ... 0678980286

..and I'll sell you a Used Once set of UST Hutchinson Scorpions for £40 posted:

http://farm7.staticflickr.com/6165/6252 ... 9a_b_d.jpg

8)


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Jan 18, 2012 8:34 pm 
Gold Trader
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Joined: Tue Feb 16, 2010 7:39 pm
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Location: Rossendale, Lancs
Thanks for the advice! And the offer of the tyres, might come back to u if my own are proving troublesome!

After yet another puncture this morning I saw my arse and went to the LBS, picked up a large bottle of stans sealant!

Wrapped the inside of the rim (mavic x317) in 3 layers of high quality electrical tape and used the old valve with a double lock ring for added security!

Managed to get the front (conti mountain king 2 2.2 wire bead) inflated and seated the bead using a track pump, deflated and put some fluid in the valve. It's now sealed in the garage and holding about 60 psi!!!

Followed the same procedure on the back which was going well until a small cut in the sidewall started firing sealant all over my garage!!! Shook it a bit and it stopped when the pressure dropped, but when I topped it up again, the cut opened and sealant everywhere again!!

Will this seal up!? It's only a very small split - certainly smaller than the ones Stan himself does in the demo video! so hoping it will if I leave it overnight!


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Jan 18, 2012 8:51 pm 
Retro Guru
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Location: Platsa, Messinias, Greece
v12jat wrote:

Managed to get the front (conti mountain king 2 2.2 wire bead) inflated and seated the bead using a track pump, deflated and put some fluid in the valve. It's now sealed in the garage and holding about 60 psi!!!



I don't think that I'd be putting that much pressure in a tubeless tyre (and why would you want to?)
I thought that the maximum recommendation was 40psi/3 bar.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Jan 18, 2012 9:12 pm 
Gold Trader
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Location: Rossendale, Lancs
Not gonna ride it with that much psi in there!!!

Just did it to make sure it's seated properly.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Jan 18, 2012 10:27 pm 
98+ BoTM | BoTM | Gold | Rider
98+ BoTM | BoTM | Gold | Rider
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Joined: Thu Mar 23, 2006 12:48 am
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Location: Kingdom of Ringlé
v12jat wrote:
Will this seal up!? It's only a very small split - certainly smaller than the ones Stan himself does in the demo video! so hoping it will if I leave it overnight!


Whether it holds or not, I wouldn't ride it.. Trust factor is totally gone, it could tear open mid berm :shock:


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Jan 18, 2012 11:00 pm 
Retro Guru

Joined: Sat Apr 11, 2009 4:27 pm
Posts: 988
Location: Devon
for small cuts like that you can normally do something....

Decent rubber patches on the inside of the tire using proper vulcanising glue will normally be all you need, but if the split is a bit bigger and a clean slice rather than a raggy tear then you can stitch the sides back together using dental floss and then patch on the inside.

I've got a conti Vertical that had an annoying little cut, only about 3-4mm long right by the bead and it just wouldn't seal with sealant alone, stitched and patched and ran fine until the tire wore out.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Jan 20, 2012 6:50 pm 
Gold Trader
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Joined: Tue Feb 16, 2010 7:39 pm
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Location: Rossendale, Lancs
turns out the little cut wasnt so bad after all! more like a few small holes in close proximity to eachother!

patched it anyway last night, just been on a 31 mile ride in the p*ssing rain and its not missed a beat! very impresseive indeed! i am going to give my trek the same treatment for sure!!!

the bike definately feels lighter, and faster as a result....

:D


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