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PostPosted: Thu Feb 09, 2012 2:27 pm 
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Location: Fircombe.
EBB for me, every time, except maybe Paul Components track ends.
The adjustment necessary to tension a chain until it's knackerd is a couple of mm at most.


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PostPosted: Thu Feb 09, 2012 9:13 pm 
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Location: It's not easy being a dolphin.
Just pointing out my EBB comment was about Changing gears - ie a sprocket and/or chainring change; not chain wear. A track end and EBB typically has about a 2 cms (theoretically I suppose it's an inch) of built in movement to account for variations. It could be a significant change; and in this respect an EBB seems to have an added weight penality over track ends.

Curiously, what's wrong with Magic Gears? Chains are one of the cheapest consumable parts of a bike and it's good practice to change earlier than later to increase the life of the more expensive alloy chainrings for example.


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PostPosted: Fri Feb 10, 2012 12:44 am 
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They're only magic for about 100 miles. At say £10 for a chain that's about the same running cost a diesel VW Polo :lol:


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PostPosted: Fri Feb 10, 2012 10:20 am 
South East Deputy AEC
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Location: Angmering
is the chain stretch really that noticeable??


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PostPosted: Fri Feb 10, 2012 10:36 am 
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It only has to stretch a tiny bit for it to go slack. Chains seem to stretch quite alot in the first couple of rides then settle down. A chain stretched to 0.75% is around 1 link longer than when new.


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PostPosted: Fri Feb 10, 2012 10:39 am 
South East Deputy AEC
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wow, i had no idea it was that much.

You can still ride with a fair bit of slack though, right. mine has quite a bit and rides fine on a magic gear


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PostPosted: Fri Feb 10, 2012 10:48 am 
Gold Trader / rb Rider / Special
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My current setup is worn and has a high and low point on the ring, there is too much slack on the low point and as such im scared for my life until i replace my setup!
Id say about half inch movement should be max!


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PostPosted: Fri Feb 10, 2012 10:51 am 
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Location: Platsa, Messinias, Greece
BobCatMax wrote:
wow, i had no idea it was that much.

You can still ride with a fair bit of slack though, right. mine has quite a bit and rides fine on a magic gear


If your chainline is good you can get away with something like an inch of vertical play, if you're lucky.
The problems is that on bumpy surfaces the chain doesn't only move vertically, it whips about a bit sideways as well and if you're running with a very slack chain it's enough to cause derailment.
So, the slack chain doesn't only look crap but is a real risk to your health as well.

I tried the so-called "Magic Gear" idea but decided very quickly that it's a waste of time - for what you can buy a proper single speed frame for (or modify one that you already have) it's just not worth bothering with anything else.
The best idea for an existing frame that you don't want to modify are the Excentriker or Forward Components EBB converters.


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PostPosted: Fri Feb 10, 2012 11:06 am 
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JamesM wrote:
It only has to stretch a tiny bit for it to go slack. Chains seem to stretch quite alot in the first couple of rides then settle down. A chain stretched to 0.75% is around 1 link longer than when new.


The biggest cause of chain stretch is running the chain too tight. The number of singlespeeds I see on here with perfectly straight chains from cog to ring; blimus!
Run looser, like on my Solitaire, they last forever...


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Feb 10, 2012 11:22 am 
Gold Trader / rb Rider / Special
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Is that so? How slack per se should it be run then?
Ive never had mine dead tight as it sounds all 'crunchy' then and you know something isnt right.


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