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PostPosted: Tue Dec 13, 2011 3:32 pm 
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Should be ok. It should be minimal anyway so cant see it being a problem.


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PostPosted: Tue Dec 13, 2011 4:01 pm 
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I am not to sure were that myth about copperslip has come from but it is a myth as far as I am concerned but it may be someone has applied the idea of galvanic corrosion between Al-Fe to Al-Cu. In theory this would be an issue but oxygen has to be present which the anti seize stops. Also your BB cup is steel which corrodes galvanicaly with aluminium and it alloys. So if you cannot use copper slip that was the case then the UN54 BB would never be fitted to alu frames which we do.

I think this is all down to font of knowledge/echo chamber that is the internet and the over application on the reactivilty/galvanic series. In reality it is not a problem.


Anti-sieze is just that for staic parts, grease is for moving parts. If you are really worried there is a aluminium based anti sieze. Grease will work though but will not last as long, which is why it is important to re grease your seat post regularly.

Oh by the way I have a metalurgy degree and teach Chemistry and Physics.


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PostPosted: Tue Dec 13, 2011 4:05 pm 
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Excellent information right there. Cheers!


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PostPosted: Tue Dec 13, 2011 4:21 pm 
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Also what is actually happening is metal ion in the alu frame migrating outwards. In the cup is steel as it alway is the iron atoms in the steel swap place with the aluminium atoms in the frame froming a weld and seizing the part.

Apply that to the cu anti seize. Copper atoms in the grease can swap place with the Alu atoms in the frame. So all that happens you will end up with a few copper atoms on the frame and a few alu atoms in the grease, so the composition of the grease changes a little over time. This how anti-seize works. As copper is less reactive than Iron you also use it on Iron/Iron interfaces for the same reasons. It prevents the touching metal surfaces bonding together.


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PostPosted: Tue Dec 13, 2011 4:36 pm 
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Interesting reading...

Managed to find a Pace RC80 installation guide that says you can use RC7 as thread grease for installation so its all good... http://www.pacecycles.com/PDFs/RC80BB_Instructions.pdf

Cheers!


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PostPosted: Tue Dec 13, 2011 5:30 pm 
Gold Trader / PoTM Winner
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bm0p700f wrote:
I think this is all down to font of knowledge/echo chamber that is the internet....


Thats a bit ironic :wink: ..... you being the font of knowledge and posting such well informed information on said echo chamber, to be recited verbatim by us willing sheepses

Ba-a-a-ahhh

G


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PostPosted: Tue Dec 13, 2011 5:59 pm 
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However If you want to be really particular then this guide might be useful.
A zinc antiseize is better for Aluminium appliacations but copper anti seize is a "good choice" (half moon).

http://www.stealth316.com/misc/antiseize.pdf


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PostPosted: Tue Dec 13, 2011 6:30 pm 
retrobike rider / Gold Trader
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I go down the copper grease route. Excellent anti-seize properties, which are tested in the wet Lake District winters :)


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PostPosted: Tue Dec 13, 2011 10:18 pm 
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I use a nickel based grease, not least as I have a willing supplier !

Most copper and nickel based anti seize greases are used to prevent seizing where high temperature(> 400 degrees C ) is involved.

For bike applications any regular lithium based grease will be adequate.Unless your cycling generates so much heat that you can raise the frame temp to over 500 degrees C,then regular grease will be fine. :)


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PostPosted: Tue Dec 13, 2011 10:37 pm 
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Fascinating. Need to ask the expert - Ti BB frame with Al UN72 cups. Lithuim or Copper? I had sleepless nights and pending on answer I may need a re-build :)

Seriously though, why actually use anti-seize? Every bike wreck I've had it's broken down and stuff seized - worst being Al bb-shell to steel UN52 BB.

I've tended to use grease, this allows you to torque up and remove with ease when the time comes to replace parts in my experience; even 10 years on.


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