A bit of help & advice needed on fitting front brakes

Currently getting all the bits together to build up a GT Outpost Trail frame into a single speed but I've hit a problem. I bought some Charge Nozzle forks on the bay which are V-Brake/Cantilever mount only, however the problem is there were no bosses included with the forks so I headed off down to my LBS who happily supplied me with some, but there are no holes either in the forks or with the bosses (obviously) to allow you to fit V/Canti brakes. So can anyone shed any light on what I can do to overcome this problem.

Thanks in advance

Liam

i'd guess top holes are for 26" wheels bottom for 24"

the wee holes for the springs aint there i guess you just put them to inside

Yes you can run 24" and 26" wheels as they are Jump forks, not as though I'm going to be doing any jumping any time soon. What do you mean by "put them to inside"?

Thanks

Liam

Liam1611":3l5olwye said:

Yes you can run 24" and 26" wheels as they are Jump forks, not as though I'm going to be doing any jumping any time soon. What do you mean by "put them to inside"?

Thanks

Liam

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i thought you were on about the 3 spring tension holes

you have lost me, i have no clue what you are on about lol

I think he does mean the little spring holes.

By the looks of it, wont the spring just 'butt up' against the flat edge? Amd the tension of the bolt keep it in place?

Odd one.

I do mean the three tension holes that Canti/V-Brakes fit into. I've fitted one of the canti arms onto the fork and tried what you suggested cyfa but the spring just slips over the edge of the mount as the spring isn't long enough to sit comfortably and stay where it's supposed to regardless of how tight the bolt holding the arm in place is. Does anyone have any other ideas/suggestions?

Thanks in advance

Liam

I suspect they're designed to be used with brakes that tension the spring internally within the brake arm rather than using an external hole.

or you should have been supplied with screw in the contain the spring holes.

A bit like the middle one.



I was going to say something like the on-one setup, but the positioning would be wrong I guess

gradeAfailure":158c5ux5 said:

I suspect they're designed to be used with brakes that tension the spring internally within the brake arm rather than using an external hole.

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What type of brake works like this and will I need to change the bosses?

@Fluffychicken, Your probably right about the On-One set up as the silver bits are a little too deep. I could do with the washer set up that's on the black canti bosses because I think that may work as I could set the positioning of them when tightening up the boss. Anybody got any lying about or do I have to trek down to B&Q and get my drill out?

Also found something interesting whilst browsing Sheldon Brown

Dia Compe style cantilevers often use a totally different approach. The Dia Compe system doesn't use the spring hole in the cantilever boss, but has a separate spring block as part of the cantilever assembly. This spring block is the first part to go onto the boss, and it has a hole for the end of the spring. When the bolt holding the cantilever to the boss is loose, the spring block can turn freely, but when this bolt is tightened, it locks the spring block in place. The spring block has flats for a cone wrench (usually 13 mm) to let you rotate it to provide the desired tension.

Can anyone shed any light on this?

Thanks

Liam

Liam1611":39u0e1ep said:

gradeAfailure":39u0e1ep said:

I suspect they're designed to be used with brakes that tension the spring internally within the brake arm rather than using an external hole.

Click to expand...

What type of brake works like this and will I need to change the bosses?

Click to expand...

This:

Dia Compe style cantilevers often use a totally different approach. The Dia Compe system doesn't use the spring hole in the cantilever boss, but has a separate spring block as part of the cantilever assembly. This spring block is the first part to go onto the boss, and it has a hole for the end of the spring. When the bolt holding the cantilever to the boss is loose, the spring block can turn freely, but when this bolt is tightened, it locks the spring block in place. The spring block has flats for a cone wrench (usually 13 mm) to let you rotate it to provide the desired tension.

Click to expand...