Retrobike Forum Index

It is currently Sun Dec 04, 2016 9:33 am

* Login   * Register * Search  * FAQ



Post new topic Reply to topic  [ 13 posts ]  Go to page 1, 2  Next
Author Message
PostPosted: Sun Dec 11, 2011 1:06 am 
Retro Guru
User avatar

Joined: Sun Nov 06, 2011 10:22 pm
Posts: 275
Location: Manchester
Currently getting all the bits together to build up a GT Outpost Trail frame into a single speed but I've hit a problem. I bought some Charge Nozzle forks on the bay which are V-Brake/Cantilever mount only, however the problem is there were no bosses included with the forks so I headed off down to my LBS who happily supplied me with some, but there are no holes either in the forks or with the bosses (obviously) to allow you to fit V/Canti brakes. So can anyone shed any light on what I can do to overcome this problem.

Thanks in advance

Liam


Attachments:
SSL22058.JPG
SSL22058.JPG [ 145.3 KiB | Viewed 539 times ]
SSL22060.JPG
SSL22060.JPG [ 287.4 KiB | Viewed 539 times ]
Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Dec 11, 2011 1:42 am 
Retro Guru

Joined: Tue May 06, 2008 4:24 am
Posts: 713
Location: Edinburgh
i'd guess top holes are for 26" wheels bottom for 24"

the wee holes for the springs aint there i guess you just put them to inside


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Dec 11, 2011 2:03 am 
Retro Guru
User avatar

Joined: Sun Nov 06, 2011 10:22 pm
Posts: 275
Location: Manchester
Yes you can run 24" and 26" wheels as they are Jump forks, not as though I'm going to be doing any jumping any time soon. What do you mean by "put them to inside"?

Thanks

Liam


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Dec 11, 2011 2:15 am 
Retro Guru

Joined: Tue May 06, 2008 4:24 am
Posts: 713
Location: Edinburgh
Liam1611 wrote:
Yes you can run 24" and 26" wheels as they are Jump forks, not as though I'm going to be doing any jumping any time soon. What do you mean by "put them to inside"?

Thanks

Liam

i thought you were on about the 3 spring tension holes

you have lost me, i have no clue what you are on about lol


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Dec 11, 2011 5:23 pm 
Gold Trader / rb Rider / Special
Gold Trader / rb Rider / Special
User avatar

Joined: Mon Aug 31, 2009 12:26 am
Posts: 16165
Location: Rurally close.
I think he does mean the little spring holes.

By the looks of it, wont the spring just 'butt up' against the flat edge? Amd the tension of the bolt keep it in place?

Odd one.


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Dec 11, 2011 9:05 pm 
Retro Guru
User avatar

Joined: Sun Nov 06, 2011 10:22 pm
Posts: 275
Location: Manchester
I do mean the three tension holes that Canti/V-Brakes fit into. I've fitted one of the canti arms onto the fork and tried what you suggested cyfa but the spring just slips over the edge of the mount as the spring isn't long enough to sit comfortably and stay where it's supposed to regardless of how tight the bolt holding the arm in place is. Does anyone have any other ideas/suggestions?

Thanks in advance

Liam


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Dec 11, 2011 9:26 pm 
Retro Guru
User avatar

Joined: Sun Jul 09, 2006 11:07 pm
Posts: 1593
Location: muddy fields, usually
I suspect they're designed to be used with brakes that tension the spring internally within the brake arm rather than using an external hole.


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Dec 11, 2011 9:38 pm 
retrobike rider
retrobike rider
User avatar

Joined: Fri Aug 08, 2008 2:36 pm
Posts: 16741
Location: Yorkshire, England
or you should have been supplied with screw in the contain the spring holes.

A bit like the middle one.

Image

I was going to say something like the on-one setup, but the positioning would be wrong I guess
Image


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Dec 11, 2011 10:32 pm 
Retro Guru
User avatar

Joined: Sun Nov 06, 2011 10:22 pm
Posts: 275
Location: Manchester
gradeAfailure wrote:
I suspect they're designed to be used with brakes that tension the spring internally within the brake arm rather than using an external hole.


What type of brake works like this and will I need to change the bosses?

@Fluffychicken, Your probably right about the On-One set up as the silver bits are a little too deep. I could do with the washer set up that's on the black canti bosses because I think that may work as I could set the positioning of them when tightening up the boss. Anybody got any lying about or do I have to trek down to B&Q and get my drill out?

Also found something interesting whilst browsing Sheldon Brown

Dia Compe style cantilevers often use a totally different approach. The Dia Compe system doesn't use the spring hole in the cantilever boss, but has a separate spring block as part of the cantilever assembly. This spring block is the first part to go onto the boss, and it has a hole for the end of the spring. When the bolt holding the cantilever to the boss is loose, the spring block can turn freely, but when this bolt is tightened, it locks the spring block in place. The spring block has flats for a cone wrench (usually 13 mm) to let you rotate it to provide the desired tension.

Can anyone shed any light on this?

Thanks

Liam


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Dec 11, 2011 11:06 pm 
Retro Guru
User avatar

Joined: Sun Jul 09, 2006 11:07 pm
Posts: 1593
Location: muddy fields, usually
Liam1611 wrote:
gradeAfailure wrote:
I suspect they're designed to be used with brakes that tension the spring internally within the brake arm rather than using an external hole.


What type of brake works like this and will I need to change the bosses?


This:

Quote:
Dia Compe style cantilevers often use a totally different approach. The Dia Compe system doesn't use the spring hole in the cantilever boss, but has a separate spring block as part of the cantilever assembly. This spring block is the first part to go onto the boss, and it has a hole for the end of the spring. When the bolt holding the cantilever to the boss is loose, the spring block can turn freely, but when this bolt is tightened, it locks the spring block in place. The spring block has flats for a cone wrench (usually 13 mm) to let you rotate it to provide the desired tension.


Top
 Profile  
 
Display posts from previous:  Sort by  
Post new topic Reply to topic  [ 13 posts ]  Go to page 1, 2  Next

All times are UTC [ DST ]


Who is online

Users browsing this forum: eldridge, Google Adsense [Bot] and 13 guests


You cannot post new topics in this forum
You cannot reply to topics in this forum
You cannot edit your posts in this forum
You cannot delete your posts in this forum
You cannot post attachments in this forum

Search for:
Jump to:  

About Us

Follow Retrobike

Other cool stuff

All content © 2005-2015 Retrobike unless otherwise stated.
Cookies Policy.
bikedeals - the best bike deals in one place
FatCOGS - Fat Chance Owner's Group

Powered by phpBB® Forum Software © phpBB Group