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PostPosted: Fri Nov 18, 2011 1:57 pm 
retrobike rider
retrobike rider

Joined: Tue Mar 01, 2011 6:44 pm
Posts: 307
Location: Plymouth
If you can, get some sealant like 'Tiger Seal' to use on the cable exit, that will really help.

Using thermal will definately help (Mine has a fair glob on it).

Quality control is definately lacking on these parts. I've had near identical lights turn up.. and been totally different quality, missing rings etc.

Be careful with the surface mount stuff... it's not always easy to resolder, without burning the PCB. If you get it working correctly with the lights, please let me know, as I may then give mine a go.


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PostPosted: Fri Nov 18, 2011 2:41 pm 
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Location: UK Southwest
We do surface mount stuff at work so removing the LEDs won't be a problem. I don't intend trying to get the LEDs working properly, I'm going to ditch them completely so the switch doesn't light up at all. The way I see it is there's no point in having a switch that lights up if its not going to serve its purpose as a battery indicator. And if it doesnt light up I will be able to leave the battery conected to the light all the time.


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PostPosted: Fri Nov 18, 2011 2:55 pm 
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Location: UK Southwest
Scougar wrote:
Quality control is definately lacking on these parts. I've had near identical lights turn up.. and been totally different quality, missing rings etc.


Interesting that, so you may be lucky and get a good one or unlucky like me and get a load of crap. I know these are cheap so you can't really complain too much, but thats not really going to cut much mustard when you are plunged into darkness whilst descending at 35mph. It could end up costing you alot more than the difference between this light and something decent.

I wonder how long mine would have lasted with no sealing and poor thermal export for the LED. And with no way of telling that the battery is going flat I can only go on other peoples estimates of battery life. Does it go dim when its running out or does the driver keep it at full brightness untill there is nothing left and then shut it down?

Maybe I should get two as its unlikely they will both pack up at the same time. Plus I really would actually have 1600 lumens.

And the moral of this story:

"Buy cheap, buy twice" :lol:


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PostPosted: Fri Nov 18, 2011 3:39 pm 
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Joined: Tue Feb 01, 2011 4:54 pm
Posts: 413
Location: Jersey
I got a set from MagicShine and a set from eBay...

Massive difference in quality however the eBay is brighter..

I run the eBay one on my helmet... and the Magicshine on the bars, using the bars most of the time and the helmet when it gets technical...

Interested to hear if anyone managed to sort the LED out though as my eBay is also doing the same..


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PostPosted: Fri Nov 18, 2011 6:14 pm 
retrobike rider
retrobike rider

Joined: Tue Mar 01, 2011 6:44 pm
Posts: 307
Location: Plymouth
Let's be honest, if you are buying from HK/China you know you are taking a risk anyway. BUT, when I have complained about parts not turning up, so far... HK/China ebayers have been excellent about a refund so far, so I can't knock them for that.

The light from MTBBatteries is generally of a better quality, but even 'magicshine' have been accused of having crap circuitry to it's not always better to buy more expensive kit. Occasionally, you manage to find a gem in the cheap stuff. I think getting a cheap light actually helps you decide what you really want and need in the future.

P.S. Just after passing cyfa2809 tonight on the way back home tonight, a cyclist on the pavement beside me (facing me) helled out "You trying to blind everyone!?"... so even though I had tried to angle my head light and handlebar lights away from the traffic.. you can't please everyone!!

p.p.s. Just going down stairs to get my XM-L light and will endeavour to take it apart to compare for you :D


Last edited by Scougar on Fri Nov 18, 2011 7:19 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Fri Nov 18, 2011 7:01 pm 
retrobike rider / Gold Trader
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Joined: Sat Jan 27, 2007 10:35 pm
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Location: The desolate flats of Cambridgeshire
I now sport three of these, 2 bar mounted and 1 helmet. The plan is to get one of the eBay wide angled lens' for one of the bar mounts.


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PostPosted: Fri Nov 18, 2011 7:36 pm 
retrobike rider
retrobike rider

Joined: Tue Mar 01, 2011 6:44 pm
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Location: Plymouth
I would have to fully desolder it to get more thermal paste under the LED pcb itself.. and I don't have a soldering iron any more (I borrowed the last one). I took it apart just now and place some thermal paste on the sheath that the circuitry is stuffed into so that it hopefully transfers some of the heat from that to the casing where it's pressed down. I will need to get some proper sealant on the rear switch and the cable exit point.

I don't see how taking the surface mounted LEDs is going to stop the double lighting issue though, I think the problem lies eleswhere on the circuit board. (Just my opinion).

EDIT: After a few minutes the casing is getting pretty hot (i.e. it's transferring heat well).. some I'm pretty sure that putting on the thermal paste where I described it, is a good idea!


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PostPosted: Fri Nov 18, 2011 8:55 pm 
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Scougar wrote:
I don't see how taking the surface mounted LEDs is going to stop the double lighting issue though, I think the problem lies eleswhere on the circuit board. (Just my opinion).


I think you're missing my point about taking the LEDs off. As you said the problem isn't with the LEDs themselves but something else and is therefore pretty much unfixable. However if I remove them and throw them in the bin then they won't be able to light my switch up anymore. The switch illumination is annoying as it's lit the whole time the battery is connected, however it does serve as a battery status indicator which is a nice feature. Well as that feature doesn't work on my light then I may aswell remove the LEDs and do away with the annoyance of the perminently lit switch. The upside being that I won't have to disconnect the battery every time I leave my bike for a while.

Scougar wrote:
EDIT: After a few minutes the casing is getting pretty hot (i.e. it's transferring heat well).. some I'm pretty sure that putting on the thermal paste where I described it, is a good idea!


When I tried mine for a few minutes last night in my living room the case didnt get hot at all, warmish maybe but not hot. It was probably getting very hot inside however. Still If I use it in wet weather all the rain water that will get inside will keep it cool :lol:


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PostPosted: Fri Nov 18, 2011 9:00 pm 
retrobike rider
retrobike rider

Joined: Tue Mar 01, 2011 6:44 pm
Posts: 307
Location: Plymouth
Fair point about the indicator LEDs. I may investigate further if I can dig out a soldering iron.

If the casing get's warm/hot it's a good thing :-) Means the heat is being properly transferred away from the LED which ARE sensitive too heat, and won't shine quite as bright when they get hot as efficiency drops.


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PostPosted: Fri Nov 18, 2011 9:04 pm 
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Location: UK Southwest
Yeah I know, hot is good. My light doesn't get hot it barely gets warm because there is no thermal compound in there. So mine will cook itself internally and fail prematurely. Another reason why I think the one I got is a bad one.


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