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PostPosted: Fri Sep 16, 2011 8:44 pm 
Gold Trader
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Location: surrey,uk
Bought some v2 moto disc brakes off eBay, set up front brake at home if fine and works well no squealing

Took rear to evans as is internal cable routing and it now squeals like a pig!

Any thoughts- contaminated pads or?

I noticed fluid on the rotor and caliper

New pads needed?

New rotor?

Regards


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PostPosted: Fri Sep 16, 2011 8:48 pm 
Gold Trader / rb Rider / Special
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Your views sound about right :roll:


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PostPosted: Fri Sep 16, 2011 9:02 pm 
Gold Trader / MacRetro rider
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Have you got some copper grease on the back of the pads :wink:

G


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PostPosted: Fri Sep 16, 2011 10:35 pm 
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Enid_Puceflange wrote:
Have you got some copper grease on the back of the pads :wink:

G


As in copper slip? Never heard that one. How much and all over?


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PostPosted: Fri Sep 16, 2011 11:16 pm 
Gold Trader / MacRetro rider
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Yeah,

Copper grease, copper slip , its the same gunge :lol:

Just a nice thin layer on the back, around the area where the piston(s) touch

The squeal is from vibration, the copper grease will dampen the vibe

Give it a go :wink:

G


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PostPosted: Fri Sep 16, 2011 11:30 pm 
Gold Trader / rb Rider / Special
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:shock: I guess it would be because ceramic is quite grippy?


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PostPosted: Fri Sep 16, 2011 11:40 pm 
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Well I never. Ta for that. I have some organic Hope pads on at the moment and they squeal like mad when wet till they dry. Pain in the ass.


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PostPosted: Sat Sep 17, 2011 12:27 am 
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If Evans have got fluid on your rotor and contaminated your pads, then they've not removed the wheel and pads before bleeding to save time, which is not the correct way to do it. This is most likely to be what is causing the noise.

Copper slip behind the pads is not recommended for bicycle disc brakes as it can contaminate the pistons. Particularly Hope phenolic pistons would not be a good idea to contaminate with small metal filings.....

Hope pads also have a run-in period when they are more noisy. You can reduce noise by dripping water on the calipers.

But basically you should get back to Evans and tell them to replace your pads, clean your rotors and to bleed brakes properly in future.


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PostPosted: Sat Sep 17, 2011 11:08 pm 
Gold Trader / MacRetro rider
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:oops:

G


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PostPosted: Sun Sep 18, 2011 9:57 am 
98+ BoTM Winner / Gold Trader
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The copper grease trick is from the car mechanics handbook me thinks. Proper "retro" Hope brakes still had metal (aluminium?) pistons 8)

Also worth checking if both side pistons move equally when applying the brake, sometime one side is "sticky" causing the moving pad to cyclicly bend the rotor which does not help. Another noise trick is to gently chamfer the leading edge of the brake pads.

Beware the contaminated pads and rotors. In my experience checking them in the stand or at low speed in the car park they seem to arrest the wheel OK. But at serious speeds when you need them the most there simply is not the bite. YMMV

Enjoy!!


Last edited by IbocProSX on Fri Nov 11, 2011 8:52 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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