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PostPosted: Mon Aug 22, 2011 7:54 pm 
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My friend made it


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PostPosted: Mon Aug 22, 2011 8:25 pm 
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how rthick was the shim?

are you able to take photo of it and post?


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PostPosted: Thu Aug 25, 2011 8:56 am 
retrobike rider / Gold Trader
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Would your friend be interested in making another for some ££? I was going to ask a mate to make me one, but he's just gone to America for a months R&R. :(


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PostPosted: Thu Aug 25, 2011 9:29 am 
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Nick C wrote:
I found that Avid and Superstar rotors didn't rub on the post mount, but the Hope floating rotors I'm now using frequently catch it and are a bugger to set up so they don't. A real PITA when you carry your bike in a hatchback and have to remove the front wheel to get it in!


I didn't understand this bit - when you remove and re-fit a wheel it can only go back in one (correct) position, fully into the dropouts on both sides.
When it's in, it's in sort of thing.
If it was me, I wouldn't be bothering with getting shims made etc - I'd just file enough off the post mount to give me .030"-.040" of clearance.


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PostPosted: Thu Aug 25, 2011 10:17 am 
retrobike rider / Gold Trader
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I don't understand it either, but I can guarantee that's what happens. There doesn't seem to be any play in the hub/axle either.

I did consider filling a little off the post mount, but wasn't sure the best method of doing this. Reading this thread I thought a small spacer would be a much easier fix.


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PostPosted: Sat Aug 27, 2011 10:19 am 
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Andy R wrote:
Nick C wrote:
I found that Avid and Superstar rotors didn't rub on the post mount, but the Hope floating rotors I'm now using frequently catch it and are a bugger to set up so they don't. A real PITA when you carry your bike in a hatchback and have to remove the front wheel to get it in!


I didn't understand this bit - when you remove and re-fit a wheel it can only go back in one (correct) position, fully into the dropouts on both sides.
When it's in, it's in sort of thing.
If it was me, I wouldn't be bothering with getting shims made etc - I'd just file enough off the post mount to give me .030"-.040" of clearance.


Is it the hollopw rivet that holds the braking surface to the alloy carrier that is the culprit?

That is the case with Formula R1 brakes and yes, one solution is to file a bit off the calliper. (no need to aks how I know that)

The amount of metal at the end of slotted hole for the bolt is small and you'd probably break through to the hole making the mounting weaker.


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PostPosted: Sat Aug 27, 2011 10:42 am 
retrobike rider / Gold Trader
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No it's actually the black arms, or the carrier as you described it. It's such a minimal clearance, that I guess that any movement when the QR is closed, causes it to move close enough to rub.

I think I mentioned earlier that the Hope technician I spoke to said this is a known problem with some 'wheels', I presume due to the thickness of the 6 holed mount the disc bolts onto.


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PostPosted: Sat Aug 27, 2011 12:03 pm 
retrobike rider
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Nick C wrote:
I think I mentioned earlier that the Hope technician I spoke to said this is a known problem with some 'wheels', I presume due to the thickness of the 6 holed mount the disc bolts onto.


See thats what i was wondering, thats what i meant by all hubs not being the same size, as in where the rotor mount stops? If thats the case (even though the shim sorted it) a different hub could fix it?


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PostPosted: Sun Aug 28, 2011 7:17 am 
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International Standard for disc hubs -

So, you're talking about a maximum permitted deviation from the nominal 10.16mm of +/- 0.1mm (.004"), exactly the thickness of a Coke can.

For a manufacturer (Hope or otherwise) to be able to claim that there "is a problem with certain hubs" would indicate , to me at least, that they have found some hubs where the flange offset falls below the permitted minimum of 10.06mm.
Or that they have failed to take all possible fork dimensions (not just the actual caliper mount) into account when designing their brake components and are using the "problem hubs" statement as a way of passing the responsibility on to the end user....

Or it is also possible that the fork may fall outside of tolerance, of course.

The only way to ascertain where the error lies is to get your (or someone else's) measuring gear out and check the hub. Otherwise we'll be speculating for ever :)

And anyway, we want to know :lol:


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PostPosted: Sun Aug 28, 2011 4:19 pm 
retrobike rider / Gold Trader
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I'll get the verniers out at work on Tuesday.


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