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PostPosted: Sun Aug 21, 2011 2:34 pm 
retrobike rider
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I've just bought some SS floating rotors, and the 180 up front runs really close to the fork leg. You can barely fit a piece of paper between the rotor and the fork. Is there a way to space it out? I've been thinking of changing hubs anyway, but would that make any difference?


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PostPosted: Sun Aug 21, 2011 3:16 pm 
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Dont think chaging hub would make a difference

If you really need the gap, put a spacer on your axle assembly and then drop the wheel back in


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PostPosted: Sun Aug 21, 2011 7:09 pm 
retrobike rider
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Can you do that on the front too?


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PostPosted: Sun Aug 21, 2011 7:48 pm 
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eeek!!! that is close. :shock:

what forks - are they designed for use with 180 ?

had a look as mine and would guess that your fork is for post mount calliper and it is the the lump for the mount that is getting close to the disc.

is this a "feature" of this disc? have your tried Hope floating discs?

if it is the disc, the easier solution is to send them back and buy Hopes, or run 160 mm on front.

depending on what hub you have fitted, you can machine it down but that would need the right machine tools.


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PostPosted: Sun Aug 21, 2011 8:08 pm 
retrobike rider
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The forks are Fox F120 rlc's post mount I've had 203mm hope floating rotors on there before but using hope hubs. I've now put the forks on a different bike using an XT hubs and these SS rotors and now too close, thats why i wasn't sure weather the hub made any difference? I might put the SS rotor on my hope hub see if it makes any difference


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PostPosted: Sun Aug 21, 2011 8:23 pm 
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Scarfacexxx08 wrote:
Can you do that on the front too?


As long as its not too much, i have done it before. Need a little wiggle to get it into the fork again)sometimes not though!)
But will be fine, just not too fat a spacer which im sure you would realise would be too much anyway


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PostPosted: Mon Aug 22, 2011 4:18 pm 
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Scarfacexxx08 wrote:
Can you do that on the front too?


If you do then you'll have to force the sliders further apart to get the wheel in which, if you think about it, isn't a good idea. It could lead to increased bushing wear and increased stiction. It's not a real solution, it's just a bodge.

The only way that this method would work would be if you added say 1mm on the brake side and removed the same from the other side to maintain the same OLD but effectively move the rotor mounting face 1mm inboard.
You'd be getting all "non standard" though and you'd be unable to just swap a wheel if you ever needed to.
Changing hubs will make (in theory) no difference, though in practice you might find a few thou. difference in the lock nut/rotor face dimension.

Post a photo or two of the problem......


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PostPosted: Mon Aug 22, 2011 4:25 pm 
retrobike rider / Gold Trader
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I have almost the same problem with the same forks, if they are standard QR?

I found that Avid and Superstar rotors didn't rub on the post mount, but the Hope floating rotors I'm now using frequently catch it and are a bugger to set up so they don't. A real PITA when you carry your bike in a hatchback and have to remove the front wheel to get it in!

I wonder if the problem is actually with the forks themselves and the post mount.


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PostPosted: Mon Aug 22, 2011 6:18 pm 
retrobike rider
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I put a very small shim on today and its now perfect, the forks still slid on without any problems. Its still running really close, but with enough clearance


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PostPosted: Mon Aug 22, 2011 6:21 pm 
retrobike rider / Gold Trader
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Did you make or buy the shim?

I spoke to Hope after making the post above, they said it was a known problem with some wheels (I run Mavic Freerides) and that my alternative would be to run solid rotors or shave a mil off the post mount.


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