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PostPosted: Sat Aug 20, 2011 11:33 am 
Moderator /Lincs, E & S Yorks Deputy AEC
Moderator /Lincs, E & S Yorks Deputy AEC
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Joined: Mon Nov 26, 2007 6:16 pm
Posts: 4144
Location: RetroModding™ since 1988
The Niterider in your link weighs 255g for the battery and 230g for the lamp unit, a total of 485g the ad is misleading as are manufacturers quoted weights

The light has a poor runtime compared to other lights in the same weight and price range

Why are you so hung up on the weight of a bike light? Wouldn't you rather see where you're going than worry about a few grammes here and there?

Seriously if you knees and head are anywhere near your bars when jumping you are doing it wrong

Photos taken yesterday on a skills course I was on
Image

Image

My head and knees are nowhere near the bars.


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PostPosted: Sat Aug 20, 2011 12:49 pm 
Old School Hero
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Joined: Sun Mar 27, 2011 2:09 am
Posts: 235
Location: Hull, Humberside
Bike and accessories, their WEIGHTS, we're all preoccupied by these, many of us prefer not to do WITHOUT certain accessories:
~ a wireless computer (Approx 50g),
~ some clipless pedals (Instead of flat pedals, weight differences negligible, pair of pedals 450g to 500g approx)
~ water bottle & cage (Full with liquid about 450 g),
~ maybe some bar ends (150 g),
~ maybe pump & clip (150 g),
~ lights (from 50g+ to 1000g)

Instead (Of doing without some essential accessories) we REPLACE parts of our bikes with lighter alternatives like lighter:
Seat Posts
Seats
Stems
Handlebars
Rims
Tyres
Disk brakes

Then we'd consider getting lighter Forks, then a lighter Frame.

So the newer version of my light is heavier then quoted, well at 485g = 1.07 lb's (niterider-minewt-pro-750-rechargeable-front-light). Makes me feel better.

The jump photos, good, nice technique.

Boring bit about other people have different length, legs, torso, arms, etc.
Myself as having an evolutionary beating, incredibly short legs and long upper body (That's right I'm an ape that can walk and ride a bike), that defies many bikes geometry on jumping I'll CROUCH more heavily on the front end of my bike, then most people. Well on most manufacturers 16", the standover clearance is inadequate (Way too big), and the top tube is normally too short. AND most manufacturers don't make bikes much shorter then 16": Giant, Lapierre, some make an extra small a 14" (Kona) or 15.5" (Trek). And Orange make a 14" Long for the Five, odd looking MTB, lighter then it looks as well, despite it's unsophisticated looks.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Aug 21, 2011 11:56 am 
Old School Grand Master
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Joined: Mon Jun 14, 2010 9:06 pm
Posts: 4449
Location: Herts UK
I'm awaiting the gurus knowledge on fitting tyres so the knobbly bits are on the outside and how tyre tread direction affects traction and stability.


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 Post subject: Re: Fenix LD20
PostPosted: Sun Aug 21, 2011 1:09 pm 
retrobike rider / Gold Trader
retrobike rider / Gold Trader
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Joined: Tue Nov 03, 2009 10:00 pm
Posts: 5611
Location: Newcastle Upon Tyne
srands wrote:
The Fenix LD20 is a TORCH though?

http://www.dryburghcycles.co.uk/product ... Light.html

Have you cobbled this to your handlebar? Or does it come with a bracket? Surely the long length of this torch, would make it ackward for offroad trail riding (i.e. You might knee it or headbutt whilst jumping).


Yeah, I bought a handlebar bracket for mine, about £3 or so as it'd basically rubber and Velcro. Never gets in way etc, the torch is compact (x2 AA) so no issues. Will post a picture next time I get it out.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Aug 21, 2011 2:16 pm 
retrobike rider / Gold Trader
retrobike rider / Gold Trader
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Joined: Sat Jan 27, 2007 10:35 pm
Posts: 8423
Location: The desolate flats of Cambridgeshire
Lights have moved on so much since your Halogen unit. The magicshine as mentioned is widely referenced as a benchmark for performance/value.

Lights I do not see as something to worry about weight on. They are something that you need when you need them but not a permanent fix to any bike.

If you search the forum you will find a lot of excellent advice on lights from previous discussions that go into more depth and are more current in terms of technology options than this thread.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Aug 21, 2011 3:36 pm 
retrobike rider / Gold Trader
retrobike rider / Gold Trader

Joined: Thu May 07, 2009 6:42 am
Posts: 1525
Location: Mostly West Midlands
02gf74 wrote:
I'm awaiting the gurus knowledge on fitting tyres so the knobbly bits are on the outside and


The knobbly bits go on the outside! :shock: That explains the trouble I was having with a set of Panaracer Spikes. :D

02gf74 wrote:
how tyre tread direction affects traction and stability.


At risk of spoiling a new thread, I can un-equivocally state, that best tread direction is pointing down at the ground, preferably without you or the bike between the tread and the ground. Failure to observe this can result in a rapid reduction in traction and stability which then then causes you to exceed your RDA of nettles and holly bushes. :oops:


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Aug 21, 2011 4:50 pm 
Retro Guru
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Joined: Thu Jul 07, 2005 7:16 pm
Posts: 1202
Location: U.K
hi
hope you dont beleave manufactors ratings (lumens) they are lab condition results i:e magic shine seoul p7 900 lumens@ 3 amps
real world testing 550 lumens still good thats are 3 amps the magic shine runs @2.4amps
si


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Aug 21, 2011 7:54 pm 
Old School Grand Master
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Joined: Mon Jun 14, 2010 9:06 pm
Posts: 4449
Location: Herts UK
TedC wrote:
02gf74 wrote:
how tyre tread direction affects traction and stability.


At risk of spoiling a new thread, I can un-equivocally state, that best tread direction is pointing down at the ground, preferably without you or the bike between the tread and the ground. Failure to observe this can result in a rapid reduction in traction and stability which then then causes you to exceed your RDA of nettles and holly bushes. :oops:


if there is one arrow for direction, I fit it like that to the rear but have it in reverse at the front - my reasoning, and it may be flawed, is that you want trachtion at the back but retardation at the front since the front does most of the brkaing ... but I await for the perils of wisdom from srands.


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