CARTRIDGE BOTTOM BRACKETS, brilliant aren't they...
Remember the old rubbish non-cartridge bottom brackets
They look OK, but they continuously worked loose (The lock ring would work loose), the bearings got wet and worn easily, leading to creaks and seizing often for keen MTB cyclists. The one piece version of these is only found on really really cheap bikes and BMX, are even worse:
Then came the much awaited & much praised cartridge bottom bracket
, the installation does NOT have a lockring, the BB shell on the non-drive side, do NOT need adjustment afterwards, and they are smooth running for many years, even for keen MTB cyclists:
Now we have a new style cartridge bottom, the cartridge Hollowtech II bottom bracket
, unconventionally the bottom bracket AXLE is part of the crank (drive side), the bottom bracket consists of the bottom bracket shell cups and an AXLE sleeve, the drive side crank fixed axle passes through the drive side bottom bracket cup centre hole, then the non-drive side crank bolts on the drive side crank fixed axle:
Lots of cyclists are riding these, but when the simple cheap cartridge bottom bracket works, why have a BB like these? Perhaps LESS bottom bracket shells seized in frames that would NOT have be removable with standard bb tool, would be possible to remove to Hollow tech style bb tool. The rationale of this is since standard cartridge BB's cup knurled edges DO NOT stick out of the frame, there is no surface to grip, as alternative removal (Other then flat blade screwdriver and hammer!), hence the following tools would not be of any use: Adjustable Wrench, Pipe Wrench and Mole Grips, whereas if knurled edges of Hollowtech BB shell did "round off"
then possibly use Adjustable Wrench, Pipe Wrench or Mole Grips!
Perhaps there is an alternative purpose, more choice, perhaps, cyclists looking at buying MTB or upgrade their MTB would prefer a crank and BB that looks more sophisticated.
Also there is a number of splined axle bottom brackets:
To generalise alot about what most people are riding on quality
(Open to personnel interpretation!) MTB's:
~ BB shell diameter is a standard (Apart from BMXs and cheapest MTB's which are naff 1 piece cranks),
~ BB axle length differs on BIKES
~ Crank length is normally 1 of 2 types:
170mm (Normally 16" size bikes or less) or
175mm (Normally 16" sizes bikes or bigger).
I still say praise be to the original cartridge BB which is cheap, smooth running for years, and easy to fit and remove with specialist tool.
Or the newer style HollowTech BB which I guess it's aesthetic styling will appeal to many, and from it's appearance and the necessary fitting/removal TOOL should be easy, tightening appears straight forward, guess this holds tight as might as conventional cartridge bottom brackets.
ALSO IN A TOPIC ABOUT BOTTOM BRACKETS, this is worth mentioning when fitting/removing BB's:
~ DRIVE SIDE (R/H)
: TIGHTEN & LOOSEN OPPOSITE of NORMAL (i.e: Tighten = Anti-Clockwise or Slacken = Clockwise)
~ NONE DRIVE SIDE (L/H)
: TIGHTEN & LOOSEN AS NORMAL (i.e: Tighten = Clockwise or Slacken = Anti-Clockwise)
For more detailed instructions from EHOW see HERE.
The above is different to fitting PEDALS, L/H pedal/crank is reverse thread. Probably why so many people knacker the thread of their cranks, when taking off existing pedals, or fitting their new clipless SPD's.
HOW TO FIT PEDAL
(NOTE: L/H PEDAL REVERSE THREAD & R/H PEDAL NORMAL THREAD)
Giant Trance x1 ~ 2008