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 Post subject: help me go 1x8
PostPosted: Fri Jun 03, 2011 12:08 pm 
Dirt Disciple

Joined: Mon May 23, 2011 1:50 pm
Posts: 39
Location: San Francisco or Surrey
Since I'm evidently addicted to tinkering on bikes, I've decided to turn my steel Trek 950 into a 1x8 setup. Am planning to try and snag some cheap cranks and BB (since the bike needs them anyway), but then does anyone have any tips on how best to go 1x8? For example, do I need to worry much about chainline, about bash/guide to keep the chain on the single middle ring, about whether to go 38t up front of higher for mainly street riding?

My current plan is to not worry about chainline and just try a single 38t non-ramped ring up front in the middle-ring position at first and see how that goes, maybe adding a bash and granny/guide if I have chain dumping issues. If I can find cheap parts I will eventually switch to 9sp and a medium- or short-cage rear mech

Please chime in if I'm missing something obvious, because up to now all I've ever run on my bikes is 3x8 and 3x9. Cheers.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Jun 03, 2011 12:22 pm 
Old School Grand Master

Joined: Sun Jun 27, 2010 9:37 am
Posts: 3976
if it were me i would go 36/38, dont forget you'll need ss chain ring bolts or (my preffered method) some 10mm washers behind the nut of some standard chain bolts. then 2 links out of the chain. run the ring in the middle ring position. when you say street, is it street as in commuting? or street as in hooning? stair sets and the like. if hooning then use a bash and guide (either an e13 or cut up front mech) if just commuting the should get away without one.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Jun 03, 2011 2:40 pm 
Dirt Disciple

Joined: Mon May 23, 2011 1:50 pm
Posts: 39
Location: San Francisco or Surrey
jamabikes wrote:
if it were me i would go 36/38, dont forget you'll need ss chain ring bolts or (my preffered method) some 10mm washers behind the nut of some standard chain bolts. then 2 links out of the chain. run the ring in the middle ring position. when you say street, is it street as in commuting? or street as in hooning? stair sets and the like. if hooning then use a bash and guide (either an e13 or cut up front mech) if just commuting the should get away without one.


Ah... links out of chain is something I had not thought about... is this necessary even for a long-cage rear mech (which I'm currently running)?

It'll be for touring rather than hooning, so the only reason I was considering a bash was as a form of outer chain guide


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Jun 03, 2011 2:46 pm 
Old School Grand Master

Joined: Sun Jun 27, 2010 9:37 am
Posts: 3976
shouldn't need to shorten chain, just may as well to add a bit of tension and save a few grams :lol:

theses have had very good reviews

http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Mode ... elID=47875

and this will work too, actually i have used one my self and it was fine, only time i lost the chain was on bad line choices off road.

http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Mode ... elID=17282

bash guard would be handy for stopping trousers getting caught too.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Jun 03, 2011 3:37 pm 
MacRetro rider
MacRetro rider
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Joined: Sat May 22, 2010 7:25 pm
Posts: 4977
Location: Edinburgh
I've got one bike on 1 x 7 just now.

34 up front, medium cage XTR 950 at the back with a road cassette that is 23-11.

No bash guard. I run the chain pretty tight so the rear mech arm is almost at 45 degrees when on the biggest cog at the back. In terms of chainline I just used the recommended BB for the cranks and it is all good.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Jun 06, 2011 3:37 pm 
Dirt Disciple

Joined: Mon May 23, 2011 1:50 pm
Posts: 39
Location: San Francisco or Surrey
Right, I think I'm sorted... Truvativ cranks and GXP BB for a tenner, Blackspire 38t ring for eight, Blackspire 40t bash for 10 and hopefully my current chainring bolts will work (or that's another tenner :(

The rear reshuffle will have to wait so for now I'll run a long-cage mech with my 8sp cassette.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Jun 06, 2011 3:52 pm 
retrobike rider
retrobike rider
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Joined: Wed Nov 18, 2009 2:37 pm
Posts: 2036
I'm running one of my bikes as a 1x8 at the mo, with the help of a Roox Chaindog thingie to keep the chain where it should be. Possibly a little over the top - but it does the job.
The right front mech arrived this morning, so it'll be back to 3x8 fairly soon.
If you want to try the chaindog, it'll be freed up pretty soon.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Jun 06, 2011 7:46 pm 
retrobike rider / Gold Trader
retrobike rider / Gold Trader
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Joined: Thu Jan 07, 2010 12:23 pm
Posts: 3613
Location: Cumbria
I've got some single ring chain ring bolts (set of 4) if you need some. I can chuck them in the post for a couple of quid.

I quite like the simplicity of running a single chainring on the front. I must spend 95% of my time in the middle ring. Not something I've ever done though, must give it a blast a some point. Singlespeed doesn't appeal to me, but I like the 1 x 7/8/9 thought.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Jun 06, 2011 8:52 pm 
Dirt Disciple

Joined: Mon May 23, 2011 1:50 pm
Posts: 39
Location: San Francisco or Surrey
EarlofBarnet wrote:
I've got some single ring chain ring bolts (set of 4) if you need some. I can chuck them in the post for a couple of quid.


Thanks.... I'll let you know. I'm hoping the bash+ring will allow me to use standard double-ring bolts.

Since this bike will be mostly ridden on streets with no huge hills around I figured one ring, sized between the normal middle and large (32 and 42), would be perfect, since I usually only use about 5 gears when riding on streets


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Jun 08, 2011 12:58 pm 
Gold Trader
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Joined: Wed May 20, 2009 1:29 pm
Posts: 10798
Location: Manchester, UK
Whack the B tension screw in as far as it goes, I find this reduces chain drop by making the mech springs work a wee bit bit harder. Make sure the ring is aligned with middle rear cog as closely as possible and do run the chain as short as possible!

Short cage mechs work better; if using up to 28 or even 30 tooth bottom gear you can just get away with a road mech (eg shortest cage 105), if using a 32-34 use a s/cage MTB mech. Of course, this is just what's worked for me :) You can even botch a front mech in fixed position (using High and Low screws) to help reduce chain drop but it's only ever been an issue to me when I haven't done all the above, and then only off-road.


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