Here you go
What I used
- 2 male rose joints, one at 8mm dia. for the brake boss end and one at 6mm dia. for the caliper end.
- A length of aluminium bar/rod - for the long bar and also the brake boss spacer at point C.
- A tap and die set (well just the taps really)
- A metalwork lathe and associated cutting tools/drills
- An extra long M6 socket head screw
- A couple of M6 washers
- If the design of your caliper restricts using point A as a fixing point, you can use point B. I used A as it gives me a 'wider' triangle so more of the load should be spread up the stay. It's also more in line with the force from the caliper so there'd be less propensity to bend/twist.
- Use washers to pack the rose joint so it doesn't bind on the caliper.
- When adjusting the tie bar for length turn the M8 rose joint for coarse adjustment and the m6 for fine (as it has a smaller thread pitch).
- Don't forget your chainstay to seatstay pivot nut and bolt will most likely rub the disc so remove it, file or grind the head down a bit (but make sure it will still take an allen key) and refit it with the nylock nut on the outside. I also got rid of the washer on the inside which buys you another 1.5mm.
- When I first fitted the A2Z adapter the caliper alignment with the disc was too far out despite the caliper mounting holes being slotted. What I did was put a few washers between the A2Z adapter and the caliper adapter and through trial and error got a good alignment.
To be honest I bought the A2Z years ago before I knew about the existence of the Onza adapter. For the money and for my other FSR I'll get the Onza and save a bit of messing about unless another A2Z comes up sub-£15.
Of course if you've got an A2Z already I think this is a great mod as it gives you peace of mind that you're spreading the braking load to closer to where it would've been originally and you also avoid the brake adapter slipping when braking moving backwards.
- The heaviest parts of the assembly are the rose joints. Now that I'm certain of the length I need I might cut some (say 2/3) of the excess length off the threaded studs that screw into the aluminium bar to shave a few grammes off.
- If I get irritated with the whole 'it's awkward to remove the rear wheel' scenario then I might modify the A2Z so it suits the angled dropouts of the FSR.
- Replace the Quad QHD caliper with my Stroker Trail caliper. Quad works fine but modulation is a bit spongey.