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PostPosted: Wed Mar 09, 2011 8:49 am 
retrobike rider
retrobike rider

Joined: Tue Mar 01, 2011 6:44 pm
Posts: 307
Location: Plymouth
I've got a Scott Sportster P3 2008 model that I've just purchased second hand. The rear v-brake is binding slightly on one side so the wheel is not free turning. If I use the adjuster screw on that v-brake itself, the brake block just goes towards the tyre, rather than away from the metal rim.

How can I adjust it (either via the brake or brake lever) so the block comes further away from the rim?

Notes: The wheel does not seem buckled as it's uniform braking effect, and looking whilst spinning it doesn't seem to need any 'trueing'. The other brake block is fine it seems. If I pull the v-brake mech slightly to free up the block the opposite block does not come in contact with the rim until I pull it further. If I open the quick release for that wheel, then it hardly binds at all, shutting the QR again causes the block/rim to bind slightly again.


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PostPosted: Wed Mar 09, 2011 9:16 am 
Gold Trader
Gold Trader

Joined: Thu May 07, 2009 9:12 pm
Posts: 2941
when u have screwed the adjuster screw give the lever a squeeze and the caliper should spring back away from rim. If that isnt working then the spring may be buggered, you can take the caliper off and set the spring tensioner in the top hole but it will decrease the life of the spring


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PostPosted: Wed Mar 09, 2011 9:29 am 
aka Leo Swayer
aka Leo Swayer
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Joined: Wed Jun 18, 2008 7:15 pm
Posts: 6365
Location: Wales.UK
You could try letting the tension off the opposite side.


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PostPosted: Wed Mar 09, 2011 9:43 am 
retrobike rider
retrobike rider

Joined: Tue Mar 01, 2011 6:44 pm
Posts: 307
Location: Plymouth
Thanks guys, I'll take a look with both idea's. (I'm not familiar with bike mech only car's, but sure I will work it out :-) )


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PostPosted: Sun Mar 13, 2011 10:29 pm 
retrobike rider
retrobike rider

Joined: Tue Mar 01, 2011 6:44 pm
Posts: 307
Location: Plymouth
Played a little bit with the adjustment screws either side, and got it so it is only touching occasionally now. Needs looking at or the v-brake replacing (or just the springs), but working now. At least I won't be getting parasitic drag anymore!

Does make me want to go disk lol. Getting decent 2nd hand v-brakes would be cheaper though :-)


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PostPosted: Mon Mar 14, 2011 2:27 pm 
National & North West AEC
National & North West AEC
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Joined: Mon Nov 03, 2008 12:43 am
Posts: 8146
Location: Macclesfield Forest
These guides might be useful:

http://www.drystonepaul.com/maintenance ... y_1996.jpg

http://www.drystonepaul.com/maintenance ... t_1997.jpg


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PostPosted: Mon Mar 14, 2011 2:32 pm 
Old School Grand Master
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Joined: Thu Jul 19, 2007 7:18 pm
Posts: 3798
Location: Staffordshire
Is the wheel true? Also make sure the brake blocks haven't got a lip worn on to them. if the block misses the rim slightly it will wear with a step in it. This will then cause the brake to bind when testing on a work stand.


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PostPosted: Mon Mar 14, 2011 2:49 pm 
retrobike rider
retrobike rider

Joined: Tue Mar 01, 2011 6:44 pm
Posts: 307
Location: Plymouth
I did check and the wheel appeared to be reasonably true (looking at the rim with it spinning).

I didn't check for a lip, and the brake block could be better aligned I suppose. Will take them off check for a lip, and retry fitment and alignment of the pads.

Thanks for that :-)


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