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 Post subject: good price
PostPosted: Thu Feb 10, 2011 8:44 pm 
Gold Trader
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just been offered these but no idea if they are a good price or which i should go for? They will be going on a giant atx2

'The boxxer forks are 200mm travel, the metal decals are quite tatty but other than that they are sound as a pound, would like £120 for these
The fox 40rc2 forks are 203mm travel, the anodising is worn on the stanchions slightly but other than that these are also sound as a pound, would like £100 for these'


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Feb 10, 2011 11:35 pm 
Mr Darcy
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Location: Bicester
back of a lorry??


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Feb 11, 2011 12:43 am 
Section Moderator & South West AEC
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Location: new forest
if the ano is worn on the fox forks that means that the bushings are more than likely worn, they will then leak oil and die. to repair them would mean new stanctions, i don't know how much they are for that specific DH fork but a standard set is about £145 plus the fitting/service charge of about £90.

it could be worth it as the forks are a stupid £1000+ fork but eventually it will need doing agian.

the boxxers on the other hand are generally cheaper to work on and the stanctions wear out less often as the bushes are simply better than fox forks and are less likely to kill the stanctions when they do wear. also i believe internally they are a simpler fork so home servicing is an option if you know what you are doing.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Feb 11, 2011 1:03 am 
Gold Trader
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defo not off the back of a lorry, the lads had em for a while as was interested in a bike he had them on a while back a nice carrera D/H, the boxers are on his glory now.
The fox look in a lot better nick cosmetically wise but cant be bothered with paying for a repair tbh
He said the fox will be ok as long as i dont get soaking wet and covered in mud constently

UMMMM what to do


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Feb 11, 2011 1:14 am 
Section Moderator & South West AEC
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Location: new forest
dirtydozen wrote:

He said the fox will be ok as long as i dont get soaking wet and covered in mud constently



this is england, good luck with that! :lol:

also if the boxxers are still on a bike surely you can get a spin on them to see how they function. check all the adjuster knobs, rebound/compression etc work (and do what they are supposed to) pump the fork really hard while riding it and look for any oil leaks, also check the stanctions for scratches that might encourage oil leaks, scratches are common on bikes that get uplifted at places like cwmcarn etc.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Feb 11, 2011 1:19 am 
Gold Trader
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if im honest i dont even know what the adjusters are meant to do on my judy XLs :oops:

The fox are still on the carrera but its not got a crank on or rear shock., the glory is fully functional


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Feb 11, 2011 1:55 am 
Section Moderator & South West AEC
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on rockshox, usually the red adjuster is rebound damping, if you wind it clockwise the the fork will extend slower after it has been compressed, if you wind it anti clockwise the fork will extend much quicker after being compressed. this is usually on the bottom of the leg on the driveside of the bike if that makes sense. if the rebound damping doesn't work the fork will feel like a pogo stick!

the blue adjuster usually at the top of one of the legs controls compression damping, again winding the dial clockwise adds more compression damping which means it controls how fast the fork can compress. the idea being that if you go off a big jump with no compression damping you might blow through all you travel in one hit, if you have some compression damping wound on you are less likely to blow through all of the travel of the fork.

there might also be an adjuster for low and high speed compression, high speed compression relates to big impacts such as landing from a jump and low speed compression as for smaller more constant bumps.

basically if you had just high speed wound on the fork wouldn't move very much over smaller trail bumps and if you had just low speed wound on you would have good small bump sensitivity but would blow through travel on big hits.


these are designed to be adjusted depending on the course you are riding/racing but most people get them set where they like them and leave them alone.


make sense?


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Feb 11, 2011 2:03 am 
Gold Trader
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so just findle with em, check that the bounce changes when i fiddleand look for leaks
Will the leaks be where the stanchions enter the lower forks


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Feb 11, 2011 2:09 am 
Section Moderator & South West AEC
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more than likely, also if his front brake doesn't work very well and makes horrible squeaking sounds and the fork is like a pogo stick then the oil from the fork has leaked down the outside of the fork after coming out the seals onto his brake pads. if this is the case you might not see oil coming out because it has ALL come out.

these tips are for all forks though not just DH ones.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Feb 11, 2011 2:18 am 
Gold Trader
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he doesnt seem the type to be bullpooper but you never know.
What if he knows they have leaked all/most oil and has cleaned the brakes, is there a way to tell the oils all leaked?
sorry for being stupid and cheers for the help


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