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 Post subject: Contaminated disc pads
PostPosted: Wed Dec 01, 2010 1:05 pm 
Gold Trader / MacRetro rider
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I've had this problem a couple of times and did the usual google search to find out what my options were,no doubt many have had this problem and judging from the google results just about everyone that has ever ran disc brakes :?
There is a lot of advice recommending that you chuck the contaminated pads and buy new ones,which can cost anything up to £20 per brake[if you buy recommended types]
Some recommend putting them in the oven for an hour or so till the solvent burns off,but for the most part that idea gets poo poo'd off as a bad idea which will cause more problems or even cause the abrasive part of the pads coming away from its backing.
Seems the majority of the bike shops will insist you buy new pads,although i have found 2 local that just use the oldest method and use a blowtorch to burn it off.and ive also asked a professional mechanic[m/bike] who also recommended burning the solvent off.I've also found in backshop chat over coffee that burning the contamination off is something that is known about but not to tell the customers .

Since ive been running discs on the 2 latest builds ive managed to get hydraulic fluid over every pad ive used :oops: :lol: but just rely on my trusted blowtorch to sort the pads out and ive never had a problem or been forced to shell out for fresh pads
I put them on top of my bench vice and heat them till they catch fire,the flames are the solvent deep in the pad burning off.
Then its a gentle rub with 1000 grit W&D laying the paper on a piece of glass[mirror,picture etc] till the whole surface has been sanded.

I've now used this method enough times to be assured it works and works well. 8)

I can't really comment on putting them in the oven as i cant see it being hot enough to cause the solvent to ignite :? ,i think it would just smoke[and stink out the house]
If you dont have a blowtorch then i think holding the pad by its backing plate and holding that in turn over the gas ring on a cooker should burn it off ok.
ALLOW TO COOL SLOWLY,DO NOT PUT THEM UNDER THE COLD TAP TO COOL.

so if your LBS insists on buying new pads.Find another bike shop :wink:


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Dec 01, 2010 1:29 pm 
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Bike shops won't tell you to do anything else than change the pads for a number of reasons.

Of course - money - it's easier and more economical for the store to sell you new ones.

But also:
Safety - if a shop tells you to do something not recommended by the manufacturer, then they may in some circumstances become liable for any injury/loss suffered as a result.
Risk that it won't solve the problem and customer will be back complaining.

So while most of the advice in this post may be all well and good - the "find a new shop" bit - frankly - stinks. A shop that tells you to change the pads is doing what it's supposed to.

Fitting pads without getting oil on them should be an easy enough task... What are you doing wrong?


Last edited by dbmtb on Wed Dec 01, 2010 2:19 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Dec 01, 2010 1:54 pm 
Moderator /Lincs, E & S Yorks Deputy AEC
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Brakes are one thing I will not mess around with, they are such a safety critical component.

New pads can be had from £5.49 a pair from Superstar Components

I'd rather pay that than faff about with them

How are you contaminating your pads? During bleeding/hose shortening?


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Dec 02, 2010 1:14 am 
Gold Trader / MacRetro rider
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Andy B wrote:
Brakes are one thing I will not mess around with, they are such a safety critical component.

New pads can be had from £5.49 a pair from Superstar Components

I'd rather pay that than faff about with them

How are you contaminating your pads? During bleeding/hose shortening?


:lol: no it's usually from changing rotors all the time as im forever building up,taking apart and sometimes forget to clean the rotors before testing out.
I take the pads out for bleeding,shove in some worn ones or a bit of wood.


Please dont worry.This is a proven method and as my favourite bike mechanic uses it I have no concerns.[done with my permission of course,giving fav mechanic a get out clause.]
Plus ive been using discs since 1998 so i reckon if there was going to be a problem it would have surfaced long before now :?

I would never recommend buying cheap pads however :wink:


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Dec 02, 2010 1:25 am 
Gold Trader / MacRetro rider
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dbmtb wrote:
Bike shops won't tell you to do anything else than change the pads for a number of reasons.
Of course - money - it's easier and more economical for the store to sell you new ones.
But also:
Safety - if a shop tells you to do something not recommended by the manufacturer, then they may in some circumstances become liable for any injury/loss suffered as a result.
Risk that it won't solve the problem and customer will be back complaining.
So while most of the advice in this post may be all well and good - the "find a new shop" bit - frankly - stinks. A shop that tells you to change the pads is doing what it's supposed to.
Fitting pads without getting oil on them should be an easy enough task... What are you doing wrong?


Yes,i understand the safety aspect concerning liability.but as its a known cure then why not offer a choice instead of an insistence :?
On the occasion i had a shop burn off the solvent it was done with my permission,though he agreed it wasnt going to adversely affect them.


Quote:
"find a new shop" bit - frankly - stinks. A shop that tells you to change the pads is doing what it's supposed to.


Yes,fair enough. I agree on the safety aspect 8)

Though i wonder how many customers buy the manufacturers own brand pads :? or do they just get the cheapest the shop has bought in to save money :wink:


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Dec 02, 2010 8:26 am 
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Andy B wrote:
Brakes are one thing I will not mess around with, they are such a safety critical component.

New pads can be had from £5.49 a pair from Superstar Components


Which is why I'd never buy any from Superstar Components - you can get some that don't part company with the back plate from Disco Brakes for about a tenner . :wink:


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Dec 02, 2010 9:48 am 
Moderator /Lincs, E & S Yorks Deputy AEC
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Andy R wrote:
Andy B wrote:
Brakes are one thing I will not mess around with, they are such a safety critical component.

New pads can be had from £5.49 a pair from Superstar Components


Which is why I'd never buy any from Superstar Components - you can get some that don't part company with the back plate from Disco Brakes for about a tenner . :wink:
That particular issue was sorted ages ago, OK it should never have happened, but it's sorted.

Disco brakes pads are supposed to be good, never tried them


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Dec 02, 2010 10:03 am 
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Location: Platsa, Messinias, Greece
Andy B wrote:
Andy R wrote:
Andy B wrote:
Brakes are one thing I will not mess around with, they are such a safety critical component.

New pads can be had from £5.49 a pair from Superstar Components


Which is why I'd never buy any from Superstar Components - you can get some that don't part company with the back plate from Disco Brakes for about a tenner . :wink:
That particular issue was sorted ages ago, OK it should never have happened, but it's sorted.

Disco brakes pads are supposed to be good, never tried them


I'm particularly partial to these....


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Dec 02, 2010 11:04 am 
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Location: Fircombe.
I managed to pick up my toolbox last night, without checking the lid was snapped shut... :roll: :roll:
Consequently,I now have new and contaminated pads all mixed up... :roll:
Out with the blowtorch! :D


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