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PostPosted: Thu Nov 25, 2010 10:49 am 
Posh Mark
Posh Mark
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Joined: Wed Apr 18, 2007 2:49 pm
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Location: As far from the city as you can be ....
I have had use of both recently.

I found the sliders far easier to adjust (take up slack) and once correctly adjust only needed the most minute amount of adjustment a few months in to take up chain slack caused by wear.

If you are going for SS specific rather than geared as well then they can look pretty neat, plus do give the flexibility of replacing the DS dropout with a geared version should the mood take you ......

Now then whats all this about selling your Simple - not a large is it by chance ........


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PostPosted: Thu Nov 25, 2010 10:54 am 
East Midlands AEC
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Joined: Thu Oct 05, 2006 7:45 pm
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Location: Derby, UK
On my custom frame I'm going Paragon sliding - gives you the option for geared/non-geared, disc/non-disc.


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PostPosted: Thu Nov 25, 2010 11:00 am 
Retro Guru
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Joined: Tue Aug 07, 2007 12:22 pm
Posts: 2942
Location: Platsa, Messinias, Greece
Harryburgundy wrote:
Ball park? Some beautifully finished framesets on his blog.


Probably about $1,600 basic for the frame, plus any extras, plus forks (probably another $400 or so) then (for us) shipping, import duty and VAT on top of all that...... :roll:
Anyway, a bit more here from mtbr forums.


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PostPosted: Thu Nov 25, 2010 11:10 am 
Old School Grand Master
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Joined: Fri May 01, 2009 7:11 pm
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Location: Fircombe.
I use Shimano skewers on my Solitaire's track slots. I've never had any movement issues.
It might be worth considering these beauties; http://www.soulcraftbikes.com/corn/corn_2009-11-12.html
:shock:


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PostPosted: Thu Nov 25, 2010 1:38 pm 
Retro Guru
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Location: 52 Festive Road. (Nr. Lincoln)
Hmm, sliders aren't easier to adjust than an EBB (IMHO) :D . With sliders you have to adjust both sliders one at a time i.e. undo lock nuts, adjust tension bolts / pinch bolts / allen bolts / whatever.. and then check to see if the wheel is aligned properly, (don't trust any lined increments that may be there to align the wheel, make sure you check) and then re tighten lock nuts.

With an EBB it's easier, simply undo two grub screws or allen bolts at the BB shell (depending on what tightening system you have), rotate the EBB to obtain the desired tension and re nip the two bolts. No faffing around making sure the wheel is aligned correctly. There may be a slight difference in seat height depending on how much slack you have to take up in the chain but I've found it's never been so bad that I've had to re adjust the pin height.


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PostPosted: Thu Nov 25, 2010 9:01 pm 
Retro Guru
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Joined: Fri Sep 04, 2009 9:37 am
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Location: Bristolcestershire
I didn't mean difficult to remove the wheel full stop, I meant that you won't be able to do it without mucking around with the EBB. But I am clearly among EBB fanboiz so fair enough. To be honest I've not used an EBB, so I'm willing to admit that I know nothing about them! Those Black Cat things look extremely nice...

That said, I rode sliding dropouts for over a year and never had any problems with them, plus they are IMHO the cheapest and simplest method of wheel adjustment. So I reserve the right to assume that anyone who has problems with them just has girlish arms and can't do the nuts up tight enough :lol:

Only kidding folks!


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PostPosted: Fri Nov 26, 2010 1:27 am 
Retro Guru
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Location: 52 Festive Road. (Nr. Lincoln)
Well, the EBB remains untouched before and after removing the rear wheel unless you feel that you want to or notice that you need to re tension the chain. It's really quite good. :D


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PostPosted: Fri Nov 26, 2010 8:19 am 
Retro Guru
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Location: Platsa, Messinias, Greece
djoptix wrote:
I didn't mean difficult to remove the wheel full stop, I meant that you won't be able to do it without mucking around with the EBB.

You've missed the whole point here, which is that you can remove and fit the wheel without even thinking about the EBB, let alone touching it, just as you can with Paragon-esque sliding dropouts.
djoptix wrote:
To be honest I've not used an EBB, so I'm willing to admit that I know nothing about them!

Ok, fair enough.... :)
djoptix wrote:
That said, I rode sliding dropouts for over a year and never had any problems with them, plus they are IMHO the cheapest and simplest method of wheel adjustment.

No, track ends are the cheapest method of wheel adjustment and simple enough if you don't want to get the wheel in and out as easily as possible and don't have disc brakes to contend with .
djoptix wrote:
So I reserve the right to assume that anyone who has problems with them just has girlish arms and can't do the nuts up tight enough :lol:

Or has never heard of tug nuts :wink:

I'm all quoted out now :roll:
The fact is that each system has its advocates and if it works for you, then why not......? If it's singlespeed then it's all cool 8) :P


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PostPosted: Fri Nov 26, 2010 9:21 pm 
Retro Guru
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Location: Bristolcestershire
Andy R wrote:
djoptix wrote:
That said, I rode sliding dropouts for over a year and never had any problems with them, plus they are IMHO the cheapest and simplest method of wheel adjustment.

No, track ends are the cheapest method of wheel adjustment and simple enough if you don't want to get the wheel in and out as easily as possible and don't have disc brakes to contend with .


You're quite right - I actually meant track ends which is what my Genesis had. Basically I've been writing without thinking first all the way along. But then what else are internet forums for? Hey ho...


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PostPosted: Sat Nov 27, 2010 11:37 am 
Gold Trader
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Joined: Wed Jan 16, 2008 9:51 pm
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Location: Midlands
Thanks for the advice and banter chaps :wink: its an IF I am having built so if I went EBB it would be Phil and sliders would be Paragon.

Quote:
Now then whats all this about selling your Simple - not a large is it by chance ........


Yes Mark its a Large mate

Image

Those Black Cats are lovely got me thinking now :roll:


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