how freely should cranks spin.....

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Have a chat with E.thirteen or Silverfish (importers iirc)

I find Facebook is good for getting help from a lot of companies. http://service.bythehive.com

Its all too new but I'm guessing it's this setup?
http://service.bythehive.com/Guide/How+ ... +system/34

It's not the bearing seals, as mentioned it all works fine if I back off the torque. Problem with taking out the bb/frame spacer would be that currently all the gaps are equal. Remove the spacer and everything shifts over.

I guess I Should be clear that is issue seems to be with the amount of bearing preload spacers required and the torque on the nds arm.

There is video how to install.


Fit non drive crank torque to 35 lbft and see how many plastic washers fit the gap.

Then undo fit eashers and torque up..... but i am guessing youve seen and done this.

Also assume you have fitted correct spacers for bb width.

Yes, I've done as the video and manual state, which is why I'm confused. I'll have another go tonight and see how it turns out, but I reckon with no spacers it will work ok, but will it be ok to run it like that?

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From reading the above link I linked to the torque on the arm shouldn't matter as it needs to bottom out, much like Isis cranks I guess.

You then alter the preload shim/spacers to get the correct preload, the wavey washer should have small gaps around it.

Other than that, just ask hive/e13 of its not working as intended.

That's what I thought too, it just doesn't seem to bottom out.

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Step 3 from the link, pictures on it.
Step 3
Check the polygon interface to see how far it is protruding from the BB
You should see nearly 100% of the machined interface protruding from the BB, if this is not the case either your BB shell is oversized or the BB may have been installed improperly. Stop install, measure BB shell width and refer to BB install instructions
Conversely, if you see more than 3-4mm of spindle protruding from the BB you may not have used enough spacers in the BB assembly. Stop install, measure BB shell width and refer to BB install instructions.

If you're in that tolerance then all should be fine.
If not and its not protruding enough shave a bit off your bottom bracket as shell spacers till it does, keeping chainline correct.
That would be my method anyway assuming the bottom brackbracket bearing setup allows it.

I seem to have cracked it, bit not as per the instructions.

Going back to the beginning to check everything didn't yield any mistakes or issues. The interface was protruding the correct amount. I torqued it up to 30lbft without spacers and could barely get a 0.5mm spacer in the gap, so I took the nods arm off, slipped in a spacer, put the arm back on and torqued it up to 44lbft, and it all seems to be ok, no play and spins freely.swapping hoses.

Should be fun.

Thanks for the input so far. I'll post up a build thread at some point soon.

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^^^^Thay sounds like the instructions in the video i watvhed. What did you do differntly before too thick spacer?

Any way you sorted it so happy riding.

The instructions I was following implied that the minimum combination of spacers and wavy washer was one of each. Any larger gap, just add spacers to the max permissable gap. With the wavy washer involved, it was doing more than filling the gap, which was barely big enough for a 0.5mm spacer, so without it, it seems fine, spins freely and no play. I did toy with just using the wavy washer, but it's thicker than the other washers to start with, plus does it really serve a purpose aside from being wavy? Other systems to fill the gap and preload the bearings don't need or use one, so hopefully it will be fine.