And today I did......

Concorde is getting scrubbed and rebuilt this weekend which will be it's third build in three weeks!
This time it's going 2005 vintage Record carbon (compact) and going for some flying tests. It's not been built up with a lightweight setup yet so I'm looking forward to seeing how this pro-level SLX frameset compares to my 653 Cougars...which both fly.
 
just for fun - 150mm bolt through Ti-glide :D




It's actually 163mm, I'll see if I can shorten it and fit QR spacers. Bulb and XC 150mm bits used,and the center is from a suspension front.
 

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I was looking at an old Ti hub and wondering if it would come apart. :)

Any secret to it, or just a bit of heat and/or brute force?
 
dyna-ti":3otyxeky said:
just for fun - 150mm bolt through Ti-glide :D


It's actually 163mm, I'll see if I can shorten it and fit QR spacers. Bulb and XC 150mm bits used,and the center is from a suspension front.

Why?
 
RobMac":1beunrw8 said:

I've long since given up asking such questions Rob :D

But you did ask ;)

I get hubs for the spares, freehub, axle etc when they have a break in the flange or such, and I've beem looking for something to do with the bits - salt&pepper shakers, small box handle etc.
This evolved from me looking to fit a pepper grinder mechanism into one, which needs to be longer at about 175mm, though thats adjustable as ive thread cutting kit and cut that down a bit. So it loked like a goer. The internals for the grinder cost little(£4.50) but are dependent upon the hole being exact size.
I can add but not really take away so while waiting for this mechanism to arrive, I thought I'd cobble together as an actual hub. given the body was needing to be assembled anyway.

Answering epicyclo's question, they come apart with heat, and a fair bit so cobbled together hubs might not be safe to ride on.
What they actually use to bond it is red in colour though I dont know what.
I put it back together with 2 pack west epoxy(lined up holes correctly)

The interface between ti tube and hub is seriously tight, impossible to get it on or off by hand, even heated, so I use a vice in reverse to draw them apart if in one piece, or tapping from inside. After that one of the two bits left is sacrificial as its just too tight and one part needs gripped as tight as poss'.
All in all difficult to do with no measure of success as an end result.

You'd have to be as Rob suggests, as mad as a hatter to do such things :shock:
 
boxxer":3skckv1i said:
A lot of the disk hubs rotated the nds flange to the point that you need longer spokes if rebuilding

Thats likely contributing to flanges cracking. Just too great a tension.
My red wheels ive had rebuilt twice, so maybe thats why they've survived :? Tensions off completely then retentioned.

I've had a number and its always the ti glide seems to suffer the most, and oddly enough its the rotor side most cases though ive had a number came from roadies. Maybe its the potholes there.
 
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