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 Post subject: Rattle can paint job?
PostPosted: Sun Feb 18, 2007 6:03 pm 
Gold Trader
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Joined: Sat Jul 29, 2006 11:14 pm
Posts: 3848
Location: Somerset
How best to acheive a good finish on a bare metal bike frame.

I am thinking 3x coats of good quaility car primer, rubbed down with 1200grt paper between coats followed by 2x coats of top with rub down between, then 2 coats of top no rubbing and 1 x coat of laquer.

Will be using metallic silver and BMW Diamond Black.

Any better ideas or will this work okay?

Obviously it will be inside and 15c+.

Any advice gratefully received.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Feb 18, 2007 6:08 pm 
Retro Guru
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Joined: Wed Sep 20, 2006 11:23 am
Posts: 1256
Location: Winchester
I always flat back between topcoat & laquer - & a couple of coats of laquer too. Not painted a bike frame before, used plenty of BMW paint though! :)


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Feb 18, 2007 6:17 pm 
BoTY Winner
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Joined: Tue Apr 04, 2006 6:39 pm
Posts: 2568
Location: Durango CO, USA
ya, 3 + coats primer, and I used two full cans of paint on the Homegrown, followed by a full can of clearcoat. Nothing's gonna keep it from getting nicked by rocks, though.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Feb 18, 2007 6:19 pm 
Retro Guru
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Joined: Sun Jul 09, 2006 11:07 pm
Posts: 1593
Location: muddy fields, usually
Yup, wet&dry the topcoat before applying the lacquer as the others said, and do a good couple of coats of lacquer too.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Mar 08, 2007 9:14 pm 
Retro Guru
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Joined: Thu Jul 07, 2005 7:16 pm
Posts: 1202
Location: U.K
i would get a better primer if i was you i would only use etch high build primer on bare metal not the gray thinner than water stuff


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Mar 08, 2007 9:15 pm 
Retro Guru
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Joined: Wed Apr 12, 2006 4:23 pm
Posts: 2596
Location: leicester
definately etching primer on an alu frame!


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Mar 08, 2007 9:47 pm 
Retro Guru
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Joined: Thu Jul 07, 2005 7:16 pm
Posts: 1202
Location: U.K
3 coats of high build etch primer then flat with 1200 wet n dry 3-4 coats of top coat flat back with 1200 again then a couple of coats of lacuer you dont neally need to flat between the primer stage. are you using metalics if so if you want a nice deep metalic finish dust the last coat on then it will build the finish up when you clear coat it


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Mar 13, 2007 11:14 pm 
Old School Grand Master

Joined: Wed Jun 29, 2005 11:18 am
Posts: 15807
Location: near cwmcarn
whenever I've done this in the past & spent absolutely ages on prep. the paint always scratches off mega easy. given the amount of time & effort, if its not your pride & joy I'd get friendly with your local car body paint shop. £15 to get these forks done http://www.yetifan.com/scantfro3ws.jpg & the paints properly tough.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Apr 03, 2007 10:46 am 
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Joined: Mon Jul 31, 2006 3:07 pm
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What exaclty is flat back? And when you guys refer to wet and dry are you actually meaning that you do one rub down wet and then another dry?
You mean wet right?


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Apr 05, 2007 7:26 pm 
Dirt Disciple

Joined: Sat Mar 31, 2007 9:29 pm
Posts: 86
Location: Athens GA USA
The only paint I have commonly found in cans that sticks well is appliance epoxy. It is usually done without primer and is basically tough as nails. The only downiside is you have to like white, black, harvest gold, or avocado. :twisted:


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