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PostPosted: Mon Jul 23, 2018 8:36 pm 
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allenh wrote:
Just posting to follow this one but looks to be another interesting project for you?


This one won't be a build for a while, but I don't see any point hanging up a frame that isn’t “stable”.
Unless I sort out the basics now it will only get worse.

So, we’ve found out what she is, stripped her of all her parts, she’s going to get a chemical dip, then I’ll stop the rust and add a primer coat, before getting hung up in “The Queue”

Then all focus will be on my “Frenched” Coureur, Jim has to start his mums Christmas present, a 1955 Ladysport, then a purple ’93 Oracle MTB for his sister and then his ’76 Cavalier. I also want to work on my ’89 Pagan!
So this will only get the odd update before a proper build sometime next year.


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 Post subject: Re:
PostPosted: Mon Jul 23, 2018 10:48 pm 
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Joined: Fri Jul 06, 2018 11:36 am
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That's quite some queue! Are you planning on keeping us updated with them all?

I'm interested to see the surface finish after dipping, treating and priming. In some areas the rust looks like it's taken hold (I'm no expert!) so look forward to seeing how it turns out :)

It may prove to be inspiring!

Cheers, Jack


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 Post subject: Re: Re:
PostPosted: Mon Jul 23, 2018 11:06 pm 
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skylark wrote:
That's quite some queue! Are you planning on keeping us updated with them all?


Oh yes, although it might take a while.... :shock:

skylark wrote:
I'm interested to see the surface finish after dipping, treating and priming. In some areas the rust looks like it's taken hold (I'm no expert!) so look forward to seeing how it turns out :)

It may prove to be inspiring!

Cheers, Jack



I won't really know till she's been striped, but this one might have to be a cosmetic job... i.e. stabilise the rust, fill the pits with a fine filler then cold cellulose spray rather than baked enamel (the filler won't like it) If I ever sell it (when hell freezes over) I will have this thread copied so as to show what I've done. I'd hate for someone to try and ride the frame hard on a fast downhill... The nastiest velo accident I have ever witnessed was from a collapsed down tube. Not a good day. :facepalm: :cry:


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 Post subject: Re: Re:
PostPosted: Tue Jul 24, 2018 8:37 am 
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PeachyPM wrote:
I won't really know till she's been striped, but this one might have to be a cosmetic job... i.e. stabilise the rust, fill the pits with a fine filler then cold cellulose spray rather than baked enamel (the filler won't like it) If I ever sell it (when hell freezes over) I will have this thread copied so as to show what I've done. I'd hate for someone to try and ride the frame hard on a fast downhill... The nastiest velo accident I have ever witnessed was from a collapsed down tube. Not a good day. :facepalm: :cry:


The Forks look the most concerning area to me, going on experience with a couple I've done that have been badly neglected most of it looks to be surface and treatable but some does look worse and the forks do look decidedly angry in places.

Also how much rubbish came out of it when you took the BB and forks/headset out? That's always a telltale of whether it's rotting from the inside out and the inside will need just as much chemical treating as the outside.


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PostPosted: Tue Jul 24, 2018 8:39 am 
King of the Skip Monkeys
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its bent, a frame building friend who builds frames says its bent

sorry

Its probably why it was put away in the first place waiting for a repair that never came

Image


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PostPosted: Tue Jul 24, 2018 9:02 am 
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Yeah, I'd come to that conclusion......pretty obvious really, I guess...


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PostPosted: Tue Jul 24, 2018 9:25 am 
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PeachyPM wrote:
Yeah, I'd come to that conclusion......pretty obvious really, I guess...


Shame

Repairable? And more to the point worth doing?


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PostPosted: Tue Jul 24, 2018 11:46 pm 
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allenh wrote:
PeachyPM wrote:
Yeah, I'd come to that conclusion......pretty obvious really, I guess...


Shame

Repairable? And more to the point worth doing?


Definitely, on both counts.


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PostPosted: Wed Aug 01, 2018 6:13 pm 
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Quick up-date on the frame conservation work, I popped in to see my chum Mark at http://www.powderandpaint.info/ in East Cottingham near York, he’s been intrusted with the prep work on the Massed Start, first job was a chemical dip to remove all paint and oils, then on to very, very careful fine glass blasting. Mark has had years of experience very delicately dealing with people’s pride & joys and really does work carefully and slowly, taking time to check progress.
Today I inspected the result and although heavily pitted in places, the frame is ok to move on to the next process, namely zinc primer powder coating. Now although this has some similarities with regular powder coating, (in how it is applied), it’s not quite the same….think of it as a modern version of “Bonderising” or “Special rust proofing” the layer will stabilise the frame and should protect mild steel outdoors for 20 years left as it is. With a couple of layers of paint and clear coat & tucked up nice and warm and dry in my workshop, the frame should be rust free for many more years.
This will make a good base to treat the pitting with a polyester filler and then cold painted with 2-Pac acrylic. This by the way is one advantage over oven baked enamel.. the car body filler doesn’t like the baking process and always swells and or shrinks leaving traces of the pitting visible, particularly in fine pearls and flamboyant paints.
You can also use regular spray can acrylics such as the modern Humbrol model making mini cans or the cans that Halfords sell. But you must top coat these with an acrylic clear coat as theses paints aren’t very tough. 2-pac acrylics on the other hand are nearly as tough as enamel.
PS, word of warning….dont use cellulose over zinc powder coat.. it doesn’t like it one bit. :shock:

Sorry no photographs, I’ll post some when I get the frame back after the zinc coat. 8)


Last edited by PeachyPM on Sat Aug 04, 2018 6:56 am, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Fri Aug 03, 2018 11:41 pm 
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Here’s something I meant to mention, the headbadge from this massed start was aluminium, not pressed tin.
I’ve not come across this type before and I also noticed the colour configuration is the same as the first type of printed flat metal badge from early 1949 with the yellow top right. (subsequent CB badges had the yellow ring bottom left, then the post 1958 Holdsworth badges had the yellow top left).
I’ll be re-painting this after I’ve added this photo to Velobase just for the records.


Attachments:
AluminiumHeadBadge - .jpeg
AluminiumHeadBadge - .jpeg [ 505.28 KiB | Viewed 178 times ]
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