Geoffrey Butler Track Frame and Parts

MatBH5

Gold Trader
Roberts Fan
Feedback
View
Hello, another new project which I couldn't resist, purporting to be Geoffrey Butler track bike (minus wheels).
I'm an mtb'er learning to appreciate thinner wheels, so bear with my ignorance please.
Can anyone shed more light on age provenance etc...
Geoffrey Butler frame, 531 Main Tubes, wrap over seatstay, no drillings for brakes, seemingly hand painted 'Geoffrey Butler' on downtube. Has a grease port on the bb shell.
Chater Lea pedals with Brooks toe clips
FB (Fratelli Brevio?) cranks
Duralumin Forged (IA?) 49 tooth ring
Bayliss Wiley bb
Brooks B17 (seems very narrow)
Cinelli stem with nice enamel badge
Cinelli 'Tour of Britain' bars
(No wheels!)
The chap I got this from said it was his Father's bike, who was a Kentish Wheeler, and regularly took it to the velodromes, he thought certainly from the '60's if not earlier.
Frame number is 56736
Lovely story behind this and I'd like to get it running again, though the chrome is pretty rusted, lots of patina and cottered cranks are beyond my (limited) mechanical knowledge.
I know GB didn't build frames, rather bought them in.
Grateful for any knowledge!
Thanks
Photos to follow...
 
Re:

Photos (better to follow when I'm not in a poorly lit hotel room!)
 

Attachments

  • image.jpg
    image.jpg
    37.4 KB · Views: 1,009
  • image.jpg
    image.jpg
    26.9 KB · Views: 1,008
  • image.jpg
    image.jpg
    36.2 KB · Views: 1,008
  • image.jpg
    image.jpg
    35.7 KB · Views: 1,010
  • image.jpg
    image.jpg
    38.8 KB · Views: 1,010
  • image.jpg
    image.jpg
    26.1 KB · Views: 1,010
Re:

cat_jumping.gif
 
It feels like a 60s bike, but some of those components, namely the steel cranks, suggest it might be a late 50s bike. I think by the 60s road bikes had largely made the switch to alloy cranks, bars, stem etc, but track bikes held on to steel bars and stems because they were stronger. The same might be so for the cranks, because alloy cottered cranks are inherently weak. I don't really know when they made the switch away from cotters.

Is this an ex Herne Hill bike? I only ask because I think their training bikes are GBs. Have you checked on the Classic Lightweights site? I think there is a Geoffrey Butler page in the frame builders' section.
 
I never came cross much about GB frames until in 1978 the whole British track team arrive on brand new GB bikes in white. Some matching road frames also appeared I assumed Woodrup or similar were behind that lot.

That track frame has a hint of Carlton about it .... Get looking front end with double plate croiwn and steel stem (which were still on track frames in the 70's)

Shaun
 
Re:

Thanks for your replies gents, I'm going to take a closer look and some more pictures today.
There doesn't seem to be much on Classic Lightweights for GB, I guess as they weren't framebuilders.
I see what you mean re. Carlton with the wrap over seatstays.
 
Re:

A little progress.
The seatpost came out with no issues, saddle is off and ready for a renovation.
A quick rub with tin foil on part of the bars indicated that the worst of the rust is on the surface and I'm optimistic that these will clean up OK.
The headset is well greased and turns as it should.
Stem bolt released but that's where the problems started. The wedge didn't drop, I can't get any movement within the steerer and using a wheel to leverage against the bars just felt like I'd twist the forks.
Knocking on the stem bolt partially threaded into the wedge (I think these dont have a wedge, but an expander instead?) didn't seem to have any effect and I'm worried about bending the bolt and damaging the threads.
Have left some penetrating oil for the week... Any tips welcome.
Here's some fresh pics.
 

Attachments

  • image.jpg
    image.jpg
    27.6 KB · Views: 875
  • image.jpg
    image.jpg
    33 KB · Views: 875
  • image.jpg
    image.jpg
    22.6 KB · Views: 875
  • image.jpg
    image.jpg
    33 KB · Views: 875
  • image.jpg
    image.jpg
    33.5 KB · Views: 875
You really have to smack the stem bolt, probably an expander and not a wedge. If you don't want to damage your bolt, screw in an old one. Use a block of hardwood against the bolt as the head of a hammer could do a lot of damage on its own. The bolt is never usually the problem, the corrosion of the stem on the steerer tube is more if a nightmare!

Shaun
 
Re:

Thanks, I've also read to use a piece of wood up under the fork crown & resting on the floor, so as to transmit the force to the ground, not the fork legs.
I'm not sure I've got a spare stem bolt (imperial thread?) so I'll get a wanted add out. I think this had a 7/16 bolt head.
 
Back
Top