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PostPosted: Thu Dec 06, 2012 2:36 pm 
Old School Grand Master
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Joined: Sat Oct 06, 2012 5:17 pm
Posts: 3775
Location: Norn Iron
More apres polish pics ...

Brake levers

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Front mech - a lot of time spent here

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Rear Mech - more pics but less work!!!

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Maillard Helicomatic Freewheel
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Gear Cable Outer

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Cranks

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And last (so far) the pedals -

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I would be better getting some building done than posting pics!!!!


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PostPosted: Thu Dec 06, 2012 3:38 pm 
Old School Grand Master
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Excellent work - nothing like a bit of healthy competition :wink:


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PostPosted: Thu Dec 06, 2012 3:47 pm 
Old School Grand Master
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Al-onestare,

I am up to my eyes in Christmas stuff - i think you have already won!!

Richard


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PostPosted: Thu Dec 06, 2012 5:42 pm 
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I've had the black fingers recently too.. You two obviously got more stamina for it than me, though..

Regarding your front dropouts...

As with most things in life, the actual procedures are fairly simple and quickly described...It's all the caveats involved that need carefully considering. Providing yourself with the best possible 'anchor', and the most favourable leverage situation, is a good foundation for success, in mechanickin', and doubtless elsewhere. Also, with vices, hammers, files, etc., start gently and tentatively.. maximum force is rarely necessary or desirable. I'm not assuming anyone is an idiot, but it can be helpful to all of us if someone restates the obvious now and then. Also I hope I don't come across as some patronising bike know-it-all... I have as much to learn as anyone. Let me say right now that I have NEVER DONE THIS. I'm just sharing my thoughts on what to do about it, in the spirit of "two heads are better than one", and in the absence of the framebuilder's dropout-alignment equipment. If anybody thinks my suggestions are foolhardy or irresponsible they should say so. I don't want anyone breaking shit and blaming it on me.

It would be helpful to have an unencumbered front-axle on hand. Trying to fit the axle into the dropout will give you a good idea where the problem is.

I assume that thanks to LBS you now have headset and forks fitted. You could do what I am about to describe with the frameset thus assembled, but you would have to support the weight of the frame while doing it. Frames without wheels are easily distorted, and the last thing you want is the whole weight of your frame anchored by one front dropout. That would be a BAD leverage situation! For that reason it would be better to remove the forks from the frame. (Easy for me to say!) Either way, don't put yourself in a situation in which you, or anyone else, is likely to bump into your frame/forks while they are secured in the vice by one dropout. (This is for your forks' sake, clumsy organisms can shift for themselves!)
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I know I've said this before, but if you can get hold of the by now presumably almost obsolete "3 big spanners", removing (and replacing) your forks is easy. LBS have pressed your crown-race, bottom cup, and top-race home, and they can stay there. Removing the forks is just removing the locknut and spacer, unscrewing the top cup, and pulling the forks out.

Either way, what I would do is to secure each front dropout in turn in a vice, thus
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and give it a good strong squeeze... but be careful not to bend sideways the "neck" of the dropout, where it joins the fork blade, while you are doing this, (or at any other time during this whole procedure). Once you have done that, secure each dropout in turn in the vice, thus,
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and try the axle. If it gets "trapped", you need to judiciously file the opening until the axle can slide past. Don't file the "curve" where the axle should sit, just the front side of the "corridor" that leads to it; i.e. the part facing upwards in the vice, in the picture. Once the axle can slide home fully into both dropouts, your work is done, and you can reassemble.
I have favoured filing over bending (back), because we know what happens when metal is bent back and forth.. :(


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PostPosted: Thu Dec 06, 2012 11:57 pm 
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Location: Norn Iron
Thanks for the advice, I will give it a look tomorrow. I am still grumbling about the LBS! Polishing completed 10 minutes ago, PC probs mean I cannot get pics of the brakes up, they came up better than new. Thanks everyone


Last edited by TGR on Fri Dec 07, 2012 10:26 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Dec 07, 2012 1:37 am 
Road Moderator
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Location: Sheppey, Kent
Is the problem with the forks that it is pinching the axle or squeezing it? Ie have the fork legs been squashed together or have the dropouts been damaged.

Advice above all looks like pretty good advice to me.


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PostPosted: Fri Dec 07, 2012 12:04 pm 
rBoTM Winner
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Joined: Tue Mar 27, 2012 9:28 pm
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Location: Mansfield Woodhouse, Nott's.
''Polishing Guru'' Image

The 980 rear mech' looks well.

I should think about putting a layer of acrylic laquer on the brake levers as you're hands will get black and so will the bar tape! Ask me how I know :roll:


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Dec 07, 2012 12:05 pm 
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Location: Norn Iron
I initially thought forks but now I think dropout has been squeezed. I guess it does not take much to cause problems and I might get away with minimal filing.

PC is way for repair, I will make alternative arrangements for brake pics - they are incredible - if I don't say so myself!

Thanks Torqueless


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Dec 07, 2012 12:17 pm 
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Good point, Tel.. two heads, see? All my advice was geared towards rectifying a pinching problem. I assumed that if TGR was needing to use a hammer to get his front wheel out, (what was it like getting it in?) that was the main component of the problem. If the dropouts (or worse, the fork blades) are distorted laterally, that's another thing! Could be a bit of both...I'm hoping not.

That unencumbered front axle would be the acid-test... if that won't slide in, do as above, If it slides home without problem, obviously there is no pinching problem. In that case, get the cones and locknuts on the axle precisely spaced (I assume 100mm) and eyeball for any obvious distortion between the locknut-face and the inner face of the dropout.

(edit: I been beaten to the post! also, sounds like what I'm calling 'pinching' may be what you are calling 'squeezing'.. :? :? The way I see it:
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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Dec 07, 2012 2:31 pm 
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Very nicely put (and drawn) Torque-less :D


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