Gavr's Oops! What was I thinking? Thread. Finished...

gavr

rBotM Winner
Ok then - as threatened, down the line mid-70's R20, in Flamenco Red, SA dynohub, 3 speed twist shifters, what are we going to do with this one? Looks straight, no rust on frame, paint no hope of bringing back the rest pretty shot. Will strip down to frame...

Added the after picture
 

Attachments

  • IMG_3303.jpg
    IMG_3303.jpg
    169.8 KB · Views: 4,153
  • IMG_3305.jpg
    IMG_3305.jpg
    133.9 KB · Views: 4,152
  • IMG_3306.jpg
    IMG_3306.jpg
    118.2 KB · Views: 4,152
  • IMG_3307.jpg
    IMG_3307.jpg
    149.2 KB · Views: 4,153
  • IMG_3475.jpg
    IMG_3475.jpg
    168.5 KB · Views: 2,609
Ha! :D Fantastic, love the thread title and the fact that you're inspired!

I picked up quite a bit of info doing mine so hopefully will be able to offer advice here and there.

Beware though yours is an actual Raleigh Twenty with more obstacles to over come than I had....

Good luck and I'll be watching every step of the way :D
 
Tel":11lqw3i8 said:
Ha! :D Fantastic, love the thread title and the fact that you're inspired!

Now you have started something now haven't you Tel :D

The sales of old girl bikes will rocket now !
 
Shame. Your be hankering after a wire basket for the front soon enough.

C'mon then what's the vision???
 
I think before the vision the 'challenges'. These will have to be sorted before I can take this anywhere. The main problems seem to be:

Fork and plastic headset. Fork is Raleigh 26 tpi threaded and 90mm OLN.
Not many 1inch threaded steerers around and not for 20 inch wheels - the steerer is long 237mm.

Choices seem to be: Keep headset, put up with existing fork and rebuild front wheel using existing hub and new Al rim. Find suspension fork from kids BMX, which would involve cutting down the head tube substantially and going with a longer stem - not keen on that. Find appropriate new fork or have one made.

Rear triangle. OLN is 113 mm. Keep SA hub or replace. Coldset to 120mm to increase options.

Bottom Bracket. The shell measures a huge 78mm length. Raleigh 26tpi threads and the 'Fixed' cup is painted in at the factory. Options here are keep as is. Try to find a cotterless axle that will fit the existing cups and bearings. More drastic options cut down the BB shell and use a threadless BB system or have the threads re-tapped for 24 tpi

Paint. Powder coat, rattle can or respray

Rest of the bits seem to be are off the shelf, stem, seat posts, brakes bars etc
 

Attachments

  • IMG_3312.jpg
    IMG_3312.jpg
    104.5 KB · Views: 4,069
  • IMG_3308.jpg
    IMG_3308.jpg
    74.2 KB · Views: 4,069
  • IMG_3311.jpg
    IMG_3311.jpg
    45.9 KB · Views: 4,069
now stripped - except the fixed cup. Don't have the spanner.
 

Attachments

  • IMG_3317.jpg
    IMG_3317.jpg
    162.6 KB · Views: 4,042
The common route is to buy the best kids 20" wheeled bike you can find and use the parts from that.

Fork and plastic headset. Fork is Raleigh 26 tpi threaded and 90mm OLN.
Not many 1inch threaded steerers around and not for 20 inch wheels - the steerer is long 237mm.

Choices seem to be: Keep headset, put up with existing fork and rebuild front wheel using existing hub and new Al rim. Find suspension fork from kids BMX, which would involve cutting down the head tube substantially and going with a longer stem - not keen on that. Find appropriate new fork or have one made.


Rather than cut the headtube (which I have seen done (online) rather successfully) a lot of people extend the steerer of the kids donor bike instead, I think that a general welder can do this. I seem to recall that part of a quill stem was used to ensure strength and perfect alignment. This will allow a standard quill (yours is an odd size from what I can gather) and a standard threaded headset.

Rear triangle. OLN is 113 mm. Keep SA hub or replace. Coldset to 120mm to increase options.

Yes cold set to use the geared alloy wheel from the kids bike.

Bottom Bracket. The shell measures a huge 78mm length. Raleigh 26tpi threads and the 'Fixed' cup is painted in at the factory. Options here are keep as is. Try to find a cotterless axle that will fit the existing cups and bearings. More drastic options cut down the BB shell and use a threadless BB system or have the threads re-tapped for 24 tpi

On eBay, I think it's bankrupt bike spares or whatever they're called, sell a 26tpi kit to convert your crank to a cotterless set up, it's what I was going to use until I found I had standard threading.

Paint. Powder coat, rattle can or respray

Armoutex powder coat in one of they're snazzy, metallic colours.
[/quote]
 
Back
Top