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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Aug 08, 2012 2:41 pm 
Old School Hero
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Joined: Fri Feb 24, 2012 3:03 pm
Posts: 172
Location: Northern Ireland
Yeah, it just keeps getting better :lol: I have (very) slowly & gently removed the plastic non drive side, and i am now engaged in a test of strength with the drive side! :x

At least its not plastic! its been soaking for a while and i have the remover well secured with washers & a crank bolt, all ready for the biggest spanner i can get my hands on. Any normal attempts at removal up until now have been useless.


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 Post subject: BB removal
PostPosted: Wed Aug 08, 2012 8:46 pm 
rBoTM Winner
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Joined: Mon Aug 08, 2011 5:58 pm
Posts: 162
Location: Scotland
When I worked in the bike shop, the key to seized BB removal was to make the most manful grunting noises possible, and at the moment of maximum effort let out a little squeak of a fart :lol:

Are you going to clamp your BB tool in the vice and use the frame as a lever? That can be a bit less hairy than a girt big spanner: not that i'm averse to a girt big spanner! Fingers crossed anyhow...


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 Post subject: Scary 753
PostPosted: Wed Aug 08, 2012 8:53 pm 
rBoTM Winner
rBoTM Winner
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Joined: Mon Aug 08, 2011 5:58 pm
Posts: 162
Location: Scotland
terryhfs wrote:
Quote:
I'm going to be putting modern Ultegra on mine


Be very, very careful. You can't cold set 753 and if you try you'll most likely snap the frame at the dropout.


Fear not, I have a cunning plan! ...involving a thinned down axle spacer, shorter axle and re-dished wheel (amongst other things). You're right though, this exotic 753 malarkey needs to be treated with respect. Incidentally, I offered up an 8 speed hub for the purposes of comparison and it needed only the slightest of springing apart (fingertip pressure) and it slotted into the front of the dropouts with surprising ease. Strange: it hasn't been cold set previously and other frames needed stern effort to spring the stays apart for a similar test.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Aug 08, 2012 9:56 pm 
Retro Guru
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Joined: Mon Sep 19, 2011 11:52 pm
Posts: 335
Location: Enniskillen
Have you tried turning that cup the other way? I recently restored a later peugeot and had the same kind of bother. Everywhere I read suggested that it should be turned one way but in the end I tried it the other and hey presto......


On a side note missed out on a PDM coloured Ciocc with CDA and C-Record group for £170 quid in Larne.......


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Aug 08, 2012 9:59 pm 
Old School Hero
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Joined: Fri Feb 24, 2012 3:03 pm
Posts: 172
Location: Northern Ireland
Not sure on the actual stresses caused using either method. I'm reluctant to stress the frame too much due to its age and skinny pipework. I guess the bottom bracket is possibly the strongest point of the frame, so should be fine, but I'll try the big bar/spanner first, stay tuned..........


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Aug 10, 2012 10:50 am 
Old School Hero
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Joined: Fri Feb 24, 2012 3:03 pm
Posts: 172
Location: Northern Ireland
Quote:
On a side note missed out on a PDM coloured Ciocc with CDA and C-Record group for £170 quid in Larne.......


They are out there, scary to think whats rusting away in garages around the country, or buried in land fills! :o

Often thought about geting in touch with the guys i used to race with back in the 90's to see if they still had their old bikes, but that'd be just asking for trouble :D I'm sure i'd end up with some nice old stuff, but i'd also be looking for somewhere else to live :D

Anyway, i've had enough heartache with the old Perthus to do me a while. I'd been losing sleep over the bottom bracket, just would'nt budge, and i started thinking it was cross threaded, or the shell was so badly corroded that the frame was going to the skip.....

Another round to the bottom bracket! :x The Shimano remover simply could'nt take anymore :shock:

Image

With this latest worrying development, i decided to punch the axle through the non drive side and try to cut out the drive side cup. I did'nt want to stress the frame or threads any further, and thought this was my only realistic chance of success....

Image

:D Finally out! just like the seatpost, i could'nt believe how well the alloy had bonded to the steel!

Thankfully, the threads are all intact, without damage, and the shell cleaned up really well :D


Image

Now i can start on the frame refurb............


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Aug 10, 2012 3:12 pm 
Retro Guru
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Joined: Mon Sep 19, 2011 11:52 pm
Posts: 335
Location: Enniskillen
Nice work there....are you going for a respray?


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Aug 10, 2012 10:04 pm 
Old School Hero
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Joined: Fri Feb 24, 2012 3:03 pm
Posts: 172
Location: Northern Ireland
Cheers, its been stessfull, but glad its made it to this stage, be a shame to see an old Perthus Pro go to waste. I'd love to keep it original, but its too far gone, so, yeah, its getting a complete respray. Not sure now if I'll keep it authentic, or go for something different........next headache......


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Aug 10, 2012 10:13 pm 
Retro Guru

Joined: Thu Jul 29, 2010 7:50 pm
Posts: 322
Location: London
I would say match the original.... it won't cost much more to do the fades.... and if your worried about getting the decals to match.... speak to my friend Neill at Atlantic Boulevard he can repro anything.....


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Aug 10, 2012 11:07 pm 
Old School Hero
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Joined: Fri Feb 24, 2012 3:03 pm
Posts: 172
Location: Northern Ireland
Hmmm, I'm really still undecided. I'm going to start the prep work and then I'll decide, open to suggestions, so let me know your views. I have an alternative idea I'm toying with should I decide not to stay authentic, but I've plenty to do before I start looking at paint charts.....


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