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PostPosted: Sun Jul 08, 2012 3:18 pm 
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Location: Montpellier, France
You can get white cotton bar tape to replace what's on there. Personally, if you're restoring it for us by its owner, why not stick with the gears he's used to? There's nothing "wrong" with friction shifting, it's just been left behind, that's all. If you can do a nice restoration using as many of the original parts as you can, it will be a lovely build. there's nothing to stop you offering to help with upgrades afterwards if he's interested, of course, but for the "This Is Your Life" moment when you wheel it out into the light and the owner goes all bleary-eyed, it should be as close to original spec as possible, I reckon. Also, if you're new to restoring bikes of this age, modifications will only complicate rebuilding what looks like a complete but tired bike. As for the chrome, like you say it depends on cost. Shame to replace anything other than cables, tyres and brake pads, in my opinion! It will look great, and the patina will be a sign of dignified old age.


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PostPosted: Sun Jul 08, 2012 4:49 pm 
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Location: Sheppey, Kent
Looks like the band of the shifter is too far gone and the cahinset. I'd replace both with something very similar. As Rich said I'd keep it as close to original as possible rather than upgrade.

A chrome single, cottered chainset should not cost much at all equally the shifter either Cipo has put a load for sale on here recently.

Re use cotton tape rather than some cushioned stuff.

Did it all come apart okay or was the seatpost, stem and bottom bracket all seized!?


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PostPosted: Sun Jul 08, 2012 6:54 pm 
Old School Hero

Joined: Thu May 07, 2009 8:53 am
Posts: 164
Location: Sunny Colchester
Rich - The question i was asking was - Can i use an indexed block and chain with a friction shifter and friction mech?

I dont want to make the bike indexed, but have a 5spd indexed block in my garage and a chain is easy to come by so thought it is worth asking the question.

Im all for leaving the bike as standard as possible.

Polished a small section of the frame today and its come up ok - Will post up some more pictures when i have something worthy of your time.

Thanks


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PostPosted: Sun Jul 08, 2012 6:57 pm 
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designer1 wrote:
Rich - The question i was asking was - Can i use an indexed block and chain with a friction shifter and friction mech?

I dont want to make the bike indexed, but have a 5spd indexed block in my garage and a chain is easy to come by so thought it is worth asking the question.



Yes that'll be fine.


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PostPosted: Sun Jul 08, 2012 8:51 pm 
Old School Hero

Joined: Thu May 07, 2009 8:53 am
Posts: 164
Location: Sunny Colchester
Thanks Tel - much appreciated...

1st hurdle!

Im trying to source new wheels as the tensions completely gone in both, snapped spokes, coupled with the extensive rust and play etc however....

These seem to be exceptionally narrow axels - ive quickly measured and they seem to be 1/4" on the front and marginally wider on the rear?

Can anyone confirm if this is correct please?

The majority of wheels offered for sale appear to be 3/4" which i dont think will fit the frame or forks....

I will be opting for the same look as what was fitted originally, ive seen the polished alloy wheels seem to be quite popular - retaining that original look with the benifits of alloy. Anyone used these?

Thank you...


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PostPosted: Mon Jul 09, 2012 12:42 pm 
r.B.o.T.M. & P.o.T.M. Winner
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designer1 wrote:
Thanks Tel - much appreciated...

1st hurdle!

Im trying to source new wheels as the tensions completely gone in both, snapped spokes, coupled with the extensive rust and play etc however....

These seem to be exceptionally narrow axels - ive quickly measured and they seem to be 1/4" on the front and marginally wider on the rear?

Can anyone confirm if this is correct please?

The majority of wheels offered for sale appear to be 3/4" which i dont think will fit the frame or forks....

I will be opting for the same look as what was fitted originally, ive seen the polished alloy wheels seem to be quite popular - retaining that original look with the benifits of alloy. Anyone used these?

Thank you...


I have polished alloy on my Flyer and Constellation. Would be a good choice.


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PostPosted: Tue Jul 10, 2012 7:01 am 
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If you have to replace the wheels then it may as well be with alloy ones.

Can't help with the axle diameter though, I'd have to research that myself....

How's things coming along? Is is all stripped?


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PostPosted: Tue Jul 10, 2012 8:00 am 
Old School Hero

Joined: Thu May 07, 2009 8:53 am
Posts: 164
Location: Sunny Colchester
Stripping will take place this weekend - Shouldnt take too long.

I polished a few test areas using different products on Sunday and the results were pretty impressive.

Not perfect, but greatly improved.

Ive looked into the wheels and few retailers mention the axel size.
What sizes do they come on can anyone tell me please?

If i cant source the correct axel, i may opt for quick release which will definately fit - although not strictly original.

Thanks


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PostPosted: Tue Jul 10, 2012 8:45 am 
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designer1 wrote:
Stripping will take place this weekend - Shouldnt take too long.

I polished a few test areas using different products on Sunday and the results were pretty impressive.

Not perfect, but greatly improved.

Ive looked into the wheels and few retailers mention the axel size.
What sizes do they come on can anyone tell me please?

If i cant source the correct axel, i may opt for quick release which will definately fit - although not strictly original.

Thanks


Good to hear the chromework is coming up well and I agree with most of the responses regards replacing the chainset etc.

So what you're after is replacement wheels with axles narrow enough to suit the frame and fork's dropouts? Remember that with QR wheels the axle still sits in the dropouts and with QR the axle needs to be wide enough to accommodate a skewer running through the middle of it, so if your front axle is very narrow I doubt the fork ends will take a QR axle. It can be filed open, but I'd only do that before a respray personally.

Have you another set of road wheels / hubs / axles you can try in the frame & fork for size?

What make are the hubs? The front looks like a very narrow steel possible Sturmey-Archer item (or maybe a Raleigh one) with no locknuts after the cones and a central oil port?) in which case the axle could measure around 5/16" (I don't think that is the actual size though!).

I can't see the rear but would presume it's some like a Maillard and would be either 3/8" or 10mm axle??? How bad in the rim chrome? And what diameter are the rims?

Alloy wheels would indeed be a lovely upgrade, QR or solid axle anyway! :D


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Jul 15, 2012 8:04 pm 
Old School Hero

Joined: Thu May 07, 2009 8:53 am
Posts: 164
Location: Sunny Colchester
Image

The bikes now stripped almost completely & I have begun the polishing.

Below is a few 50/50 shots of what i guess i will achieve - i have a few fine polishing pads which may achieve a slightly more refined finish but in essence - thats it!

Wheels - after taking the rear wheel out - it would appear that the axle is flat on two sides to enable it to slot into the rear dropouts. Not only does the size of the axle seem to be a problem, but the width of the hubs too!
Im now condidering my options with restoring the wheels too!

He better appreciate this when its done!!!!!!!!

Image

Image

PS - The cotterpin on one side was seized, but not a huge drama as a new chainset is required (hopefully)...
Next week this mayve all changed though, as ill probably discover that this bike has a special b/b axle length/diameter or something!!!

I will get some close ups of the wheels for your perusal!
They are 27 x 1 1/4" - new tyres,tubes ordered.....
Gear lever - would anyone care to shed any light on it - as the rust on that is pretty bad so i was hoping to replace if possible - perhaps a little digging on ebay maybe in order?


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