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PostPosted: Sun Apr 22, 2012 8:57 pm 
MacRetro rider
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Joined: Tue Aug 17, 2010 11:03 pm
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Location: Lanarkshire, Bonnie Scotchland
A couple of years ago I collected my neglected old Dave Yates from the back of my dad’s garage. It had been hanging there since 1992ish, over the years I’d thoughts about handing into the cycling club for a youngster to use as winter bike, also had to battle my old mans desire to be rid of it and threats of the bin. Thank goodness I never succumbed to these thoughts and suggestions. I’d totally forgot how much I’d loved this bike and how many memories it holds.

Image
Dave Yates.JPG by gmac123, on Flickr

I’d purchased the frame in 1986, from my LBS proprietor and club secretary and had it built in his shop. He’d owned the frame for a few years before, so guessing it’s an early 80’s (frame number MS 417). The frame is 531c & the forks 531, I’d always love the metallic red finish, completed with white lug lining and world champ’s bands around the white panel on the seat tube. As a kid I felt that this gave it the look of some exotic Italian which seemed so out of reach of my paper round income.

I used this to compete in schoolboy & junior TT’s and road races in the late 80s. So it’s seems only fitting that I put right my shameful neglect and take this bike to l’Eroica this autumn.

Last year I’d stripped it down with intentions of restoring over the winter, unfortunately extracting the cranks beat me. The threads were already knackered when I was given them by a club member on the 80s. I believe this was something to do with Campag Victory having their own unique extractor nuts with a left hand thread (and these not being used)??

So I assaulted them with WD40 and a couple of different car bearing extractors. 2hrs of swearing later, my father in law and I gave up failing to budge (or get a decent grip on the cranks). In the process we’d actually made things worse… The centre pin of the bearing extract had damaged the lead in thread of the BB. I’d been surprised that the old sealed FAG BB felt so smooth and I’d been considering just leaving it there

So off for a week in LBS 1, ironically the shop where it all started, but new proprietor. No joy…

A month later not so LBS 2, but 1 have a lot of faith in, one that’s removed a seized pedal with damaged flats, one that’s fixed my 90s SIDs, one that’s help me with my 20 yr old Zaskar….. No joy…

So final option.. A mate that builds moto crossers, has his own hydraulic ramps in his second double garage, a man that fixes and operates big machines. Realising this was the brutal option, I made sure and looked sad and concerned when I asked him to try and not destroy the cranks, but cut them off all else failed. Result, turns out a couple of hours of swearing, with a greater selection of pullers, a little heat and his superior upper body strength was all that was required.

So the clean up of the frame has commenced

Image
Dave Yates Frame by gmac123, on Flickr

So I'm now off to consider what to do with the paint work, and get the chrome cleaner out for the group set...


Last edited by gmac123 on Thu Oct 04, 2012 1:26 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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 Post subject: Looks great
PostPosted: Sun Apr 22, 2012 9:06 pm 
Gold Trader / MacRetro rider
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Joined: Mon Feb 11, 2008 12:03 pm
Posts: 5105
Location: held captive by baby haggis in a cave in Scotland
Looks great!
Its also really nice to hear about a bikes history and relationship with its owner when listed on the thread.
You are lucky that back then you didnt bin it or give it away, you would sure be gutted now.
Keep the updates coming, I'll check back often.
Jamie


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PostPosted: Sun Apr 22, 2012 9:30 pm 
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Joined: Tue Feb 02, 2010 6:11 pm
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Location: wellingborough
looks good


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PostPosted: Mon Apr 23, 2012 6:24 pm 
rBoTM Winner
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Joined: Sat Apr 14, 2012 12:03 am
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Location: Newcastle upon Tyne
Leave the paintwork. It looks worse around the inside of the rear chainstays with some tyre rub and on the outside of the RH chainstay. Once you get these touched up and the wheel and chainset fitted, you won't notice much about it. The look of the rest of the frame from your pic looks in good condition. Original paintwork is always best!

A little pot of enamel nail varnish in that shade of red should sort you out.


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PostPosted: Mon Apr 23, 2012 11:43 pm 
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Joined: Fri Mar 02, 2012 7:08 pm
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Location: London
Lovely frame, what are the plans for groupset?


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 Post subject: Lovely
PostPosted: Tue Apr 24, 2012 12:16 am 
Gold Trader / MacRetro rider
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Joined: Mon Feb 11, 2008 12:03 pm
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Location: held captive by baby haggis in a cave in Scotland
This is lovely as is.
I agree with the above that original paintwork with a few battlescars is nicer than a respray, shows its used :wink:

Jamie


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PostPosted: Tue Apr 24, 2012 10:35 pm 
MacRetro rider
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Joined: Tue Aug 17, 2010 11:03 pm
Posts: 1997
Location: Lanarkshire, Bonnie Scotchland
Guys thanks for all your comments

grilla wrote:
Lovely frame, what are the plans for groupset?


Keeping it mostly as is, largely Campag Victory. I’ll be filling in a few gaps and be making the necessary l’Eroica conformance changes. More on that later.

Right now I’m focusing on doing the right thing for the frame. So to date I’ve applied some tcut and turtle wax polish, I also found chrome cleaner removed a lot of the surface rust on the back of the seat tube

originalshinkicker wrote:
Leave the paintwork. It looks worse around the inside of the rear chainstays with some tyre rub and on the outside of the RH chainstay. Once you get these touched up and the wheel and chainset fitted, you won't notice much about it. The look of the rest of the frame from your pic looks in good condition. Original paintwork is always best!


Jamiedyer wrote:
This is lovely as is.
I agree with the above that original paintwork with a few battlescars is nicer than a respray, shows its used :wink:

Jamie


The result of cleaning it up, has me in agreement with the above, thanks guys.

I contacted Dave Yates recently quoting the frame number, hoping they’d confirm year of build, and also asking for advice on tidying up the paint. I’d really hoped they’d give me a clue on the colours, however no joy.

Their advice was “You should remove the rust with abrasive paper and then paint with Humbrol (or similar) available from model shops”

So the suggested enamel / model paint approach looks to be the way ahead. I was pleasantly surprised at how decent the cleaned frame looks :shock: :) . Matching the paint will be a big issue for me as colours are not a strong point, so Mrs Mac will need to get involved here.

Breaking the issues down there’s

1. Light scratches
2. Chips
3. Narrow lines of rust veins (for want of a better phrase)
4. Rubs (wheel and cable)
5. Chain rash & chain stuck
6. A network of rust on the seat tube
7. A couple of rust bubbles


Image
Paint Work Issues by gmac123, on Flickr


So with regards to the light scratches, small chips and paint/rust veins (under the paint) go, I tend to think they’re best left are. I’m afraid of applying too many touch ups fearing this would look worse/be more visible.

To tackle the chain stuck, rash and rubs I’m going to touch up. The questions are,

1. Should I treat the bare metal in any way, Qrust or similar product.
2. Should I prime.
3. Appropriate grade of abrasive paper.

Some time ago when I was enjoying jCymbals excellent Gazelle Champion Mondial thread, there was discussion of several coats…. Actually here goes

jCymbal wrote:
Removed the rust with 1000 sand paper.
Didn't use any product to treat the rust.
Didn't prime the paint.
Used two yellows, one ocre and white enamel to get the right shade of paint.
Waited two days and leveled/sanded/polished the paint with 4000, 6000 and 8000 micro mesh sanding sheets.
Repeat the paint and level steps until satisfied with result and done.


I guess there’s no real need for rust product is the metal is well cleaned with abrasive paper.

One area for pondering is the network of light rust on the white section of the seat tube. What to do, would a light grade of paper remove the rusty look, I'd like to avoid boxing off and painting a rectangle :?


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PostPosted: Wed Apr 25, 2012 12:40 pm 
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Location: London
I don't know whether this might be of use, but there's a good article on Ray Dobbins' site that might be of use when it comes to touch ups -

http://www.raydobbins.com/pantografata/ ... ouchup.htm


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PostPosted: Wed Apr 25, 2012 12:43 pm 
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Joined: Fri Mar 02, 2012 7:08 pm
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Location: London
Also, that's really interesting that chrome cleaner worked on paintwork? I wouldn't have thought it would!


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PostPosted: Wed Apr 25, 2012 1:05 pm 
MacRetro rider
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Joined: Tue Aug 17, 2010 11:03 pm
Posts: 1997
Location: Lanarkshire, Bonnie Scotchland
grilla wrote:
I don't know whether this might be of use, but there's a good article on Ray Dobbins' site that might be of use when it comes to touch ups -

http://www.raydobbins.com/pantografata/ ... ouchup.htm


excellent blog! thanks.. I'll be taking on board a lot of the points from discussion posts at the bottom of the page and hoping to do as good a job.

regarding chrome cleaner, can't imagine it would be highly recommended. chrome cleaner is likely to be more abrasive, I was sure to apply with a cushioned/folded soft cloth. however there is something perhaps more chemically suited to removing the rust spots.


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