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PostPosted: Mon Jan 02, 2012 4:29 pm 
Dirt Disciple
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Joined: Tue Dec 27, 2011 9:18 pm
Posts: 36
Here are some pictures of my Cougar road/race bike from around 1997 'ish. I bought it 2nd hand in 2000 to use for triathlons but in May that year I had serious surgery on both legs and never rode it, indeed never did any more triathlons. As a New Year’s resolution I decided to get back into cycling to get fit so I spent this morning cleaning it from top to bottom and fitting new tyres and tubes. Vittoria Open Corsa Evo SC 700/23 - I like the gum coloured side walls which match the original tyres. Unfortunately I pinched one of the new tubes I bought with a tyre lever so had to re-fit one of the 10 year old tubes. I fitted the first tyre with my just fingers and thumbs but boy are they hard to get on, by the second one my thumbs were sore so I resorted to a plastic tyre lever – wish I hadn’t! Any tips for fitting clincher tyres e.g. a bit of soap?

Anyway can I ask a few questions?
i) How do you guys get 10bar (140psi.) in your tyres? I used my 12v car tyre pump but it gave up at around 3 bar (50psi.)

ii) I can't get the front changer to shift down to the inside ring. It's obviously an adjuster but if someone knows which one can advise me to save searching? Because I bought the bike 2nd hand so no handbook for the Shimano 600 stuff. So any help appreciated!

iii) Finally, does anyone know "what" Cougar it actually is?

Thanks - Rich…

Wheels off on my workmate
Image

The old original tyres
Image

Handlebars & stem looks like 3TTT
Image

Washed, cleaned and ready for a polish!
Image

The finished job!
Image


Last edited by Rich5ltr on Mon Jan 02, 2012 5:30 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Mon Jan 02, 2012 4:48 pm 
Retro Guru

Joined: Sat May 07, 2011 9:28 am
Posts: 758
Location: Nottingham
Wow, looks nice that.

On the pressure side, you will need to buy a 'track pump'. All bike shops, including Halfords, should sell them.

You should be able to cure the shift issue by turning the inner one of the two cross headed adjuster screws on the mech anti clockwise.

Haven't a clue regarding the frame!!

Cheers
Matt


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PostPosted: Mon Jan 02, 2012 5:01 pm 
Dirt Disciple
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Joined: Tue Dec 27, 2011 9:18 pm
Posts: 36
Thanks Matt, I'll get myself a track pump and play with the adjusters :)

p.s. What do people think of swapping the saddle for something a little more retro looking? Perhaps a San Marco Regal titanium in white?

p.p.s. I've established that the Shimano 600EX Ultegra groupset was made from 1991-1997 so the bike a little older than I always thought. So the latest it could be is around 1997.


Last edited by Rich5ltr on Mon Jan 02, 2012 6:55 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Mon Jan 02, 2012 5:33 pm 
Retro Guru

Joined: Wed May 25, 2011 7:53 am
Posts: 254
Location: Sheffield
Lovely bike, wonder what tubing it is :?:

With regard to the shifting, it could already be OK, and the front mech may be slightly seized, which can be rectified with some penetrating fluid around the pivots and some movement back and forth manually, I say this as my 90's front Shimano mech did the same, it could also be a similar issue at the handlebar shifter end and need some lubrication there.

If you can push the mech across so it pushes the chain over when you think you have selected the lower gear, it would say things need lubricating, if not then it should just be cable adjustments to let off some cable slack to let it drop over to move to the lower ring.

Plenty of guides on youtube about setting up front mechs, easier than typing instructions out.


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PostPosted: Mon Jan 02, 2012 6:57 pm 
Dirt Disciple
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Joined: Tue Dec 27, 2011 9:18 pm
Posts: 36
Thanks Will, I will go down and have a fiddle tomorrow, I'd reached the end of my lollypop today! :lol:

Anyone any tips on fitting tyres? :?:


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PostPosted: Mon Jan 02, 2012 7:03 pm 
Retro Guru

Joined: Wed May 25, 2011 7:53 am
Posts: 254
Location: Sheffield
Oh, and one last note. Don't touch the screws on the mech till you have looked at the cable first. Playing with those before anything else could put you in a bit of a pickle if you haven't set a front mech before.


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PostPosted: Mon Jan 02, 2012 7:09 pm 
Dirt Disciple
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Joined: Tue Dec 27, 2011 9:18 pm
Posts: 36
Point noted! :lol:


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PostPosted: Wed Jan 04, 2012 2:22 pm 
rider | rBoTM Winner
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Location: Wakefield, Yorkshire
Nice bike - but why would you want to put 140psi in? The tyres say 7-8 bar which is 105-120 psi. For general riding 105 is quite adequate - and more comfortable!


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PostPosted: Wed Jan 04, 2012 3:11 pm 
Retro Guru
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Joined: Mon Mar 02, 2009 4:22 pm
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I agree, I wouldn't go putting 140psi in them either!

Tyre fitting takes a bit of practice. I also pinch a tube the first couple of times, which was frustrating. Put just enough air in the tubes to keep their shape, but not enough to enlarge them. Get one side of the tyre completely on, poke the valve through the hole in the rim and put the tube inside the tyre, feeding it over the rim so it seats. Then get as much of the tyre bead over the rim as you can and ease the last bit over with tyre levers bit by bit. New kevlar-beaded tyres can be an utter pig - just to warn you :D


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PostPosted: Wed Jan 04, 2012 3:45 pm 
rider | rBoTM Winner
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Joined: Fri Jan 25, 2008 1:42 pm
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Location: Wakefield, Yorkshire
Jonny69 wrote:
I agree, I wouldn't go putting 140psi in them either!

Tyre fitting takes a bit of practice. I also pinch a tube the first couple of times, which was frustrating. Put just enough air in the tubes to keep their shape, but not enough to enlarge them. Get one side of the tyre completely on, poke the valve through the hole in the rim and put the tube inside the tyre, feeding it over the rim so it seats. Then get as much of the tyre bead over the rim as you can and ease the last bit over with tyre levers bit by bit. New kevlar-beaded tyres can be an utter pig - just to warn you :D


Talcum powder or similar (I'm currently using some old athlete's foot powder - old powder that is, not taken from an old athlete) all around the inside of the tyre and rubbed over the tube. A few strokes of the pump to give the tube some shape, get the tube to sit inside the tyre nicely and then start at the valve and work around. When/if it starts to get tight make sure the tyre beads are sitting down in the well of the rim (especially around the valve, push it up into the tyre if need be) - and persevere. The last couple of inches may need the air releasing but when the tyre snaps into position, go round and make sure the tube isn't trapped beneath it. Put some light pressure in and spin the wheel slowly to check the tyre is fitted straight and level with the rim edge.

The powder allows the tube to move inside the tyre and can help avoid some impact/snake-bite type punctures. It also avoids the tube sticking to the inside of the tyre which can happen - especially on factory fitted t and t's.


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