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PostPosted: Tue Dec 28, 2010 3:22 pm 
r.B.o.T.M. & P.o.T.M. Winner
r.B.o.T.M. & P.o.T.M. Winner
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Location: Plymouth, UK
Ive seen worse jockey wheels, a good scrape and clean may be all they need. :D


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PostPosted: Thu Dec 30, 2010 9:11 pm 
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Location: Olissipo-PT
The stem remains are still stuck in there. LOL. I'm giving a party when that steerer is clean and ready!

Got the cranks out today. Were really stuck too but here they are ready for a clean and polish.

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All that remains in the frame is the bottom bracket. Lock ring won't move. Right cup won't move. Of course they wouldn't!!! :lol:


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PostPosted: Thu Dec 30, 2010 10:15 pm 
r.B.o.T.M. & P.o.T.M. Winner
r.B.o.T.M. & P.o.T.M. Winner
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Coca Cola has been know to free sticky nuts and bolts. Mat well work on your steerer


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PostPosted: Thu Dec 30, 2010 11:24 pm 
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Location: Olissipo-PT
I've been toying with the idea of heat&cold to loosen the remaining stem "petals". One bucket with boiled water plus one bucket with icy water. Put the steerer into the boiling water and wait till it get hot. Then dip it in the icy water. Hopefully a gentle tap would be what it takes to remove the "petals".

Here's my question. Do you think the steel will be affected/compromised by the thermic shock as well? Will the paint come loose in the process too?


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PostPosted: Fri Dec 31, 2010 12:03 am 
Concours Judge
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The steel: No. The paint: I do not give guarentees it won't be affected in some kind of way.

Have you tried pressing the bits toward eachother and rotate with a waterpump tool or -better- in a vice? You tried hammering them loose? You tried a combination of that? :)


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PostPosted: Fri Dec 31, 2010 12:21 am 
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Location: Olissipo-PT
Elev12k wrote:
Have you tried pressing the bits toward eachother and rotate with a waterpump tool or -better- in a vice?

Yes, in a vice.

Elev12k wrote:
You tried hammering them loose? You tried a combination of that? :)


Yes again.

The "petals" are now completely bent inward. I now have a gap of 4 to 5mm around the top edge of steerer. The damn things are however still rock solid glued on the bottom half down to where the wedge would be. I've decided to not use the soda method as I want to preserve the painting with the handwritten serial by mr. blue. 8)

It seems it's just a matter of pacience now. It will come out this year or the next. It doesn't matter! :lol:


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PostPosted: Fri Dec 31, 2010 12:55 pm 
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Location: Olissipo-PT
The freewheel was still stuck even after days with w40.

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Been using this wrench but holding the wheel, holding the wrench so that it won't open or slide and putting my weight on it is complicated. There aren't enough hands. The handle would dig into my palm and still nothing. The freewheel won't move.

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Got a box wrench. It holds it self and grabs the freewheel key much better.

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Stroke it twice with a rubber mallet and the freewheel is out!

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Image


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PostPosted: Fri Dec 31, 2010 1:07 pm 
r.B.o.T.M. & P.o.T.M. Winner
r.B.o.T.M. & P.o.T.M. Winner
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Good work, these can be right Bs some times.


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PostPosted: Sat Jan 01, 2011 12:05 pm 
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Joined: Fri Oct 22, 2010 11:32 am
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Location: Netherlands
The best way I found to remove a stuck freewheel is to put the tool in a vice and turn the wheel with two hands. Lock the tool into place with an old skewer.


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PostPosted: Sat Jan 01, 2011 3:45 pm 
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Joined: Fri Sep 17, 2010 5:34 pm
Posts: 532
Location: Olissipo-PT
With the freewheel out I finally could re-grease and reassemble. Here's the clean cog body.

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Apply some grease:

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Put the bearings in. The grease helps as the bearing stick to it and don't fall off.

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Insert the hub screwing body.

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Turn upside down and apply grease to the other race.

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Put the bearings in.

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and close.

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Ready and working. 8)
I'm going to get another one with a different set of cogs and this one is to be sold/trade.


Last edited by jCymbal on Sat Jan 01, 2011 6:18 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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