Schils Road Bike

chrismayoh

Retro Newbie
Hi All

Just acquired a bike from a Cycle-re-cycle in Bradford and I'd like to know more about it

It's a Schils and from the date of some of the Campag parts, I'm guessing it's from about 1981/2

I've stripped it down and it all seems to be in fairly good condition so I'd like to do a sympathetic restoration, but mainly with a view to using it!

Some of the parts are Shimano such as the rear hub and I want to replace with age appropriate Campag bits

Before I hit the cycle jumbles as a complete novice, is there anyone out there who knows about these?

I emailed Veloschils in Colchester a couple of weeks ago and heard nothing

Any help would be greatly appreciated!
 

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I got schils there multiplyin'. And I'm losing control......

Sorry, couldnt resist.

Smart looking bike :)
 
I remember these frames , Patrick Schils used to bring them in from his homeland ,Belgium, and sell them to the bike trade, around the late 80t's. Although they were made to look very Italian , they were in fact made in Belgium , and were generally supplied with no graphics, so shop's could put their own name on them. I think they made from Columbus Alle tubing , I built a lot of these up , mainly with lower end Campag groupsets like Victory and Athena. Actually used one of these frames for my training bike back in the day , rode really well , would be well worth rebuilding. Looks like the forks have been replaced at some point.
 
Hi chipper
Thanks for the feedback! I guess it doesn't matter what I use to rebuild this! It has the Columbus Aelle decal and some of the parts are Campag Record, so I'll keep it at around that for a mid 80s vibe. I need a longer stem (120mm) and some wider bars (440mm) as it has 80mm and 390mm at the moment and that just won't fit me. I fancy trying tubular tyres but that'll mean a new wheelset as the rear is Shimano hub and Mavic rim (clincher) and the front is Campag hub and Mavic rim (tubular). Another question I have is how many speed should A Nuovo Record 1020/A (version 3) be good for? I'm guessing between 6 or 8, but how do I tell?
 
Had a schils bosberg road bike here a while back, from LGF and on to widowmaker. Was nicely made alloy framed 90s thing.

There was a website as you say but not much info.
 
The History Man":gm4ckrqq said:
Midlife":gm4ckrqq said:
I got schils there multiplyin'. And I'm losing control......

Sorry, couldnt resist.

Smart looking bike :)
Funny you should say that. Great minds...........

viewtopic.php?f=23&t=287481&hilit=Schils

Or ones with the same issues?


Maybe it's the same meds ;) :LOL: :LOL:

I really like that Bosberg of History Mans. I remember seeing a couple of Schils cyclocrossers in a similar style/era when in France a while back. Really nice.
If I was to stray away from steel, then that Bosberg would be the temptation to do it.

Jamie
 
Re:

Another question I have is how many speed should A Nuovo Record 1020/A (version 3) be good for? I'm guessing between 6 or 8, but how do I tell?

Well, it was surely designed to cope with a six-block. I believe Campag started toying with seven speeds in 1984, a few years before NR/SR was toppled from top billing in Campag-land by Corsa Record, so it should shift across seven cogs as well. I believe we have to wait until the nineties before we get eight-speed cassettes anyway?.. so there goes the '80s vibe.

At any rate, the NR mech (or any mech) has a theoretical 'maximum lateral parallelogam travel' which can be measured:
1.Take the back wheel out.
2.Slacken off the limit screws on the mech until they are doing no 'limiting' at all.
3.Shift the gear lever until the parallelogram is at its outermost (high gear) position.
4.Rig up a batten, or ruler, secured across the chainstays with masking tape or whatever, just in front of the mech, with a mark that corresponds to the line of the pulleys at this outermost position.
5.Shift the gear lever until the parallelogram is at its innermost (low gear) position.
6.Make another mark on the batten that corresponds to the line of the pulleys at this innermost position.
7.Measure the distance between the two marks.

Theoretically, if that measure equals or exceeds the distance between the innermost and outermost cogs on any given block/cassette, then the mech is functional in combination with that block/cassette, no matter how many cogs it has.

Practically, there might be other issues: The mech's pulley cage at its outermost unlimited position on any given frame has to be capable of being in line with the outermost cog. If it is further out than that, then the discrepancy represents so much wasted unusable lateral shifting capacity- i.e. it is useless to have a mech that shifts across 40mm if the last 5mm of that travel is beyond any possible functional outer cog position.

Also, any mech- especially a short cage racing mech designed before everyone and his uncle jumped with indecent alacrity onto the newly expired Sun-Tour slanted parallelogram patent- has a maximum toothed cog it can deal with. About 26 teeth iirc for a NR.

8.Re-adjust your limit screws (and replace rear wheel) before attempting to ride the bike. ;)
 
Re:

Thanks for all that info!

I think I'll stick with 6 speed for now as it's probably easier, but may have a go at all you suggest on a long dark night in the middle of winter . . . .

:xmas-cool:
 

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