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PostPosted: Mon Apr 26, 2010 4:47 pm 
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Joined: Fri Jul 14, 2006 8:59 pm
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Location: Sol Kitts
Lots of people say that if you need your brakes to work go for shimano, bit boring but the XTR's would look nice on this. You had XTR's before no?


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PostPosted: Mon Apr 26, 2010 5:37 pm 
Old School Grand Master
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Joined: Mon Jun 25, 2007 8:37 am
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Location: Whiskey bent & hellbound!
kaiser wrote:
Lots of people say that if you need your brakes to work go for shimano, bit boring but the XTR's would look nice on this. You had XTR's before no?


+1

Agree with the XTRs Just put a set on my RM and they look very nice, pretty impressive stopping power too.

M960 gets my vote, that lovely gunmetal would look great on that.


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PostPosted: Tue Apr 27, 2010 10:10 am 
retrobike rider
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Joined: Wed Jan 04, 2006 10:12 pm
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Location: Northumberland
Looking forward to this. On the brakes, i've been more than happy with my Tech M4 180/160 on the Yeti


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PostPosted: Wed Apr 28, 2010 8:41 am 
retrobike rider / Gold Trader
retrobike rider / Gold Trader

Joined: Mon Oct 15, 2007 9:05 pm
Posts: 9245
I've been giving the spec some thought and this is where I'm at. Subject to change of course but its a starting point...

Frame: Indy Fab Ti Deluxe

Fork: Fat City BOI modified by Kevin Winter, ISO Disc mount, custom dropout, custom paint.

Headset: Crank Brothers Cobalt SL
Stem: Thomson or Ringle in silver 110mm
Handlebar: Groovy Cycles Titanium Luv Handles
Grips: Brooks

Brakes: Undecided

Shifters: none
Front Derailleur: none
Rear Derailleur: nope
Derailleur Cables: nada
Cassette: Beach Boys Pet Sounds
Chain: KMC 9Sl Ti
Cranks: Undecided
Chainring: Boone Titanium 34t
Bottom Bracket: Something in Titanium depending on crank choice
Pedals: NC17 Magnesium/Titanium flats

Hub Skewers: KCNC Titanium
Rims: Stans Olympic XTR- de-stickered and tubeless
Hubs: Chris King Singlespeed ISO Disc in Pewter
Nipples: DT Swiss
Spokes: Titanium 2.0/1.8/2.0
Tyres: Maxis Larsson UST
Tubes: Tubeless

Saddle: Brooks Swallow Titanium
Seatpost: Syncros Titanium
Seatpost Binder: KCNC Ti

Weight: should be sub 19lbs


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PostPosted: Wed Apr 28, 2010 8:59 am 
Old School Grand Master
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Joined: Mon Nov 20, 2006 10:12 pm
Posts: 4445
Location: Barry
How are you planning to tension the chain?

Seen as you don't have a BB or cranks yet how about an eccentric BB jobbie to keep everything neat?

http://www.trickstuff.de/index.php?p=f3en1

(Looking forward to seeing this one built! )


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PostPosted: Wed Apr 28, 2010 3:16 pm 
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Joined: Fri Sep 22, 2006 1:12 am
Posts: 2461
Location: Hobart, Tasmania, Australia
Dr S wrote:
I have Formula The One's on my Cotic and they are super but a bitch to bleed and the pads do tend to drag on the disc more often than not which is annoying. They might be overkill on this but the Formula R1 might be an option.

Not liking the Graftons on this- just don't look right so they have gone to Mansfield Anodisers for a colour change- they will be going on my grellow Yo instead. So I've been looking at a pair of Crank Brothers Cobalt cranks for this- very light with the Ti bottom bracket and look cool but will they suit?

i need to sleep on it


Cobalt cranks have a tendancy to fall to bits so I'd stay away from them.

I also have a reasonable number of different disc brakes and to be honest for great reliable braking for years to come I'd choose Shimano. Avid levers go floppy after a few months as they wear themselves out and fall apart. Hopes work well but are a but like British cars and go off song for no reason and things like pads are harder to get (well they are over here). Magura work really nicely and if you didn't want to go Shimano I'd choose them.

If you do go Shimano, the M960 XTR are fantastic - I've run two sets of these for over 5 years and have never had a problem. The other great option is the old XT 4 pot M755/M756 - a fantastic brake


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PostPosted: Wed Apr 28, 2010 11:02 pm 
Old School Grand Master
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Joined: Mon Jun 25, 2007 8:37 am
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Location: Whiskey bent & hellbound!
M960 cranks are real pretty, reliable too.

I'm definately with the above on the brakes


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PostPosted: Sat May 01, 2010 11:48 pm 
Pumpy's Bear
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Joined: Mon Oct 10, 2005 10:03 pm
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Location: Hereford
Really good looking and understated frame and liking the sound of the build but...

- ... please don't build it as a singlespeed as even if you get an eccentric disc hub (WI ENO?) or b/b you'll still have all those surplus cable guides - why have a £2.5k frame and then have it compromised? Want a ss Ti IF? Get a Ti Deluxe SS. Or even a PISSOFF (now we're talking).

- ...I'm really not understanding the forks at all. You get a pair of rare forks then extend the legs, cut off the canti/v mounts, add a disc tab and then respray. Why not just get Kevin Winter or another framebuilder to fabricate the fork that you want - surely that wouldn't be more expensive than buying and adapting a BOI? That said, the cost is not exactly my point.

Sorry to sound negative, obviously your frame to do with what you wish and I'm sure you'll make a great job.


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PostPosted: Sun May 02, 2010 6:21 am 
retrobike rider / Gold Trader
retrobike rider / Gold Trader

Joined: Mon Oct 15, 2007 9:05 pm
Posts: 9245
Some good points Ed which I will try and answer....

The SS thing.
Although I have become a convert and really enjoy the simplicity of SS, I'm not brave enough to spend ££££ on a SS specific frame. A mountain bike should be a versatile tool and be adaptable. Example- my Cotic has been run SS over the winter but for a recent trip to the lakes it became 1x9. It's also been 2x9 in the past for different situations. With an SS specific frame you are stuck with it. This build is going to be a lightweight XC ride and will no doubt run gears at some point.

Forks.
Custom is something I considered and something I have done in the past. But the ride quality of the BOI fork cannot be replicated in my eyes. They really have a unique feel that I very much like. Maybe it's the tubing, maybe it's the geometry? I doubt even the best framebuilder can replicate the feel? I think the modified BOI was the best way to get the bike to ride how I want it. There are probably a good few forks out there that would have worked on this frame but I want a known quantity, the familiarity of a fork I have riden for years and know it's characteristics and vices.

I hope that quells your fears a little. I am deliberately taking my time with this build as I want it to be right first time. Good constructive comments will help shape the build so thanks for your input guys.


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PostPosted: Sun May 02, 2010 11:11 am 
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Location: Sol Kitts
Did you consider an igleheart fork? And would the extensions not have an effect on how the fork performs?


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