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PostPosted: Tue May 01, 2012 11:11 am 
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cyfa2809 wrote:
Those brakes are powerful enough anyway!?


yeah, just fancied a 180 disc as they have been 160's since I built it from new, not a problem though as I'm going with 180's on the RC39's on the 300.
I think I'm right in saying that RC39's can take a 180 disc ;)

http://www.pacecycles.com/PDFs/RC31_RC39.pdf


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PostPosted: Tue May 01, 2012 6:31 pm 
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cyfa2809 wrote:
My reaction:

Ouch thats nasty!

Ooooo thats messy!

Hmm not bad!


Wow thats splendid, good work.


Snap


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PostPosted: Tue May 01, 2012 6:32 pm 
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1210tech wrote:
cyfa2809 wrote:
Those brakes are powerful enough anyway!?


yeah, just fancied a 180 disc as they have been 160's since I built it from new, not a problem though as I'm going with 180's on the RC39's on the 300.
I think I'm right in saying that RC39's can take a 180 disc ;)

http://www.pacecycles.com/PDFs/RC31_RC39.pdf


my hollowform RC38s have a max disc size of 165mm, be supprised if the 39s were any different.


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PostPosted: Tue May 01, 2012 7:03 pm 
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Congrats on a fine repair job. Its good to see a classic frame saved from retirement and given a fresh lease of life :wink:

I have to admit my sphincter twitched when I saw that first pic - I've just built up my new frame and I never bothered to get the head tube faced or reamed and there's not as much meat on the 300's HT either :( . Something for my to do list I think...


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PostPosted: Tue May 01, 2012 8:42 pm 
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Khane wrote:
my hollowform RC38s have a max disc size of 165mm, be supprised if the 39s were any different.


from the RC39 manual off the Pace website:

For RC39 use Pace Hollowform Implant type V-brake mounts (Pt No SFAUP-2311) and
tighten to correct torque; M8 Screws 50in lbs/6Nm. For RC31 use Pt No RF31-101 and tighten to
correct torque; M5 screws; 22inlbs/ 2.5Nm. Do not over tighten or carbon fibre assembly could be
damaged. Disc-Brakes. Use mounting points on dropout carefully following brake manufacturers
instructions. Maximum recommended disc diameter is 165mm, however a 185mm dia disc is
compatible.
:wink:


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue May 01, 2012 8:45 pm 
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seems they added the last part about 185mm disc to your manual.
all mine says is maximum recommended size is 165mm.

i wouldn't want to run anything larger, for fear of destroying the forks.


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PostPosted: Tue May 01, 2012 8:46 pm 
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Fudd wrote:
Congrats on a fine repair job. Its good to see a classic frame saved from retirement and given a fresh lease of life :wink:

I have to admit my sphincter twitched when I saw that first pic - I've just built up my new frame and I never bothered to get the head tube faced or reamed and there's not as much meat on the 300's HT either :( . Something for my to do list I think...


cheers Dave, YOUR sphincter twitched!!! I nearly shed a tear or two when I found the crack but it all worked out good in the end and to be honest I'm like a dog with a bone sometimes, I wasn't going to give up until it was sorted :)


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue May 01, 2012 9:01 pm 
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Khane wrote:
seems they added the last part about 185mm disc to your manual.
all mine says is maximum recommended size is 165mm.

i wouldn't want to run anything larger, for fear of destroying the forks.


you know what manuals are like though, they are mostly just guidelines and to help the manufacturers as a means of a 'get out' clause and the RC39's are almost exactly the same design as the DT Swiss range and those forks can run up 210mm discs


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 Post subject: Pace
PostPosted: Fri May 04, 2012 9:31 pm 
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Location: North Yorkshire
I live just up the road from where Pace frames used to be created and know for a fact that a lot of the problems with these frames, where two fold.
1:- As they had so little flex along the tubes, it put a lot of stress on the key areas of Head tube, drive side chainstay join with BB shell and the seat tube/top tube area, which is where they generally cracked.
2:- Although the tubes were heat treated, after welding they were not re heat treated, which they should have been and many of the cracks were just beyond the welds, where the heat had dissapated.

I broke a few BITD and witnessed loads more suffering the same. Having said that, they probably did more for the sport in the UK than any other company and everyone aspired to their frames and parts.
I always felt it was a tragedy that they never "quite got it right" and they dropped making both frames and Forks locally.
The forks were all pretty much superb and it's tantamount to their success that there are still so many about in great working order.

Loving how you turned this into your Phoenix, it looks better than ever! Well done! Lose the risers though-uncool!


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat May 05, 2012 8:30 am 
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Location: Swansea/Birmingham
Interesting read, cheers for the reply.

Do you know what temperature the heat treatment should take place at? I wonder if its worth doing now or whether it would cause damage?

Sorry, the risers are staying, I built it like that from new, I would swap the stem for a 0 degree if I could find one though, it's an X-lite Fly if any ones got one ;)


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