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PostPosted: Mon Dec 27, 2010 5:35 pm 
retrobike rider / Gold Trader
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Location: Cumbria
Now that I'm completely happy with my Enduro build, I thought I'd look to build up a light-weight cross-country bike in 2011. I'll try and keep the costs to a minimum and no doubt swop bits between my Enduro and the Cinder Cone as I use the bikes (as I can't ride them both at once!).

So, scouring the classifieds I found a 2001 Kona Cinder Cone frame for a reasonable price. It wasn't pretty, but it was structually sound and is a good quality frame. So it begins...

Image

Frame: TIG-welded, 7005 aluminum, double-butted.

Bike-Pedia spec: http://www.bikepedia.com/QuickBike/Bike ... &Type=bike

This is the frame as I bought it. The frame takes canti/V and Disc brakes. I don't ever intend to run canti/V brakes, so the bosses could go (which would also save a few grams!).

So off the bosses came and the stays smoothed so there was no trace of them:

Image

Image

Quick flick of paint to check that all was smooth:

Image

Job done 8)

Looking through the CRC sale, found an alright FSA headset for under £7:

Image

The main part I will look to buy next is a set of forks. I think this is a good place to save some weight. At the moment I'm looking at disc compatable Rock Shox SID's or even some Rock Shox Recon's with around 80mm's of travel. The frame was originally specced with Judy forks so I think 100mm forks may be a little bit too long.

If possible I'd like to be able to ride this at the Whinlatter Challenge in March, so I have a few months to find some forks. Most other parts I'll temporarily transfer across from my Enduro.


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PostPosted: Mon Dec 27, 2010 9:03 pm 
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Location: West Sussex.
Nice job on the stays.

Start with the frame hardware, BB, Headset, etc. Get the lightest parts you can find and work outwards from that.

For the forks I would suggest one of the older SID's with 28mm stanchions. Often they come up on eBay for bargain prices. The lightest SID ever is the Original 1998 version (theres an ebay seller selling original 98 re-build kits too). They did come with a disk mount but these are rare. Best to try and find some later 28mm lowers with a mount if you go this route. Also they only have 63mm travel...

I modified the internals on my 98's and now have 80mm travel and adjustable rebound damping. Did it by retrofitting some parts from a Y2K SID XC. The parts needed a bit of modification though.

It would be cool to cut off the V brake bosses on the forks to match the back end. Just an idea 8)


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PostPosted: Mon Dec 27, 2010 9:12 pm 
retrobike rider / Gold Trader
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Thanks for the advice. SID's would be nice but haven't seen a set that quite match what I'm after yet. Plenty of time though to see what comes up.


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PostPosted: Tue Dec 28, 2010 2:03 pm 
retrobike rider / Gold Trader
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Just thinking about what front mech and bottom bracket to run on this build. As it won't be used as much as my Enduro, do you recon there is any weight saving to be had by running a road front mech and a external road spec bottom bracket? I can't see the mech making much difference, but the bottom bracket may not be as well sealed. Any thoughts?


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PostPosted: Tue Dec 28, 2010 3:51 pm 
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Heres a great resource for finding comonent weights:

http://weightweenies.starbike.com/listings.php

Dont know much about modern BB's. Im running a Hope Ti sqaure BB with Middleburn DUO's. Its lighter than the current XTR crank/bb combo. Cheaper too :)


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PostPosted: Wed Dec 29, 2010 9:30 am 
retrobike rider / Gold Trader
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Looks like there is little weight to be saved via the road b/b and f.mech route, so I'll look at mtb parts and see if I can make them a little lighter with ti bolts.

Anyway, think the forks are now sorted:

Image

These SIDs should keep the geometry right on the bike, as the frame was originally specced with Judy's. They're also really light. I'll see how they handle with a 160mm disc fitted as reports don't sound too promising. However, if I leave the canti mounts on I could always add a brace to stiffen things up.

I think I'll try and run this bike as a 1x9 to again cut down the weight a little bit (plus I never use the granny ring and could cope without the outer ring). I'll look to run a XCR Single Ring Chainguide from Superstar upfront to keep the chain on the ring. For £16.99 it looks a great deal (and only 75g's).


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PostPosted: Wed Dec 29, 2010 2:56 pm 
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Im 10st and run a 160mm Hope Mini up front on my SID's. I have no issues. People go on about how flexy SID's are but to me theyre fine. I keep up with the guys on big travel bikes when I go on local club rides. I guess if your a heavier rider they might be a bit of a problem.


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PostPosted: Wed Dec 29, 2010 4:53 pm 
retrobike rider / Gold Trader
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I'm down at 11 1/2 stone now and am going to try and get below 11st by spring. Hopefully this should help any flex issues!


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PostPosted: Fri Dec 31, 2010 11:47 am 
retrobike rider / Gold Trader
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XTR Front mech sorted now too:

Image


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PostPosted: Fri Jan 07, 2011 7:34 pm 
retrobike rider / Gold Trader
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Well, the forks, front mech and shifters have landed. Just waiting for a saddle which is in the mail.

Been getting a bit eager to fully strip the frame and get it powdercoated and then build it all up. However, I think I want to ride it first as it is to see if it's what I want. If it is then I'll strip it down and re-paint frame and forks and then rebuild. If it's not then I may look at another frame. Will see how it goes!

Plan is to also swop the XT rear mech, XT chainset and XTR disc brakes on to this bike from my Enduro. These parts will be replaced by SLX parts on the Enduro.

Pretty much sure the only parts needed to complete this build are:
* Chainset
* Handlebars

Plus the parts from the Enduro. I'll share the wheels betwen the Enduro and Cinder Cone for a while and see how things go. Can always get a second set of wheels at some stage in the future.

Will post some pics up over the weekend of how it currently looks :)


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